Gojira94

Article title uses the word 'bizarre.' Truth... https://www.theautopian.com/wip-a-deep-dive-into-how-china-started-building-bizarre-jeep-cherokee-xj-clones/

Another reference pic of the winch assembly itself. The stuff at the left foreground is associated with a Jurassic Park Jeep setup, so ignore.

Thread necro, but I saw this (sold) kit on FB Marketplace from a year ago (2024). Only pics of actual full kit I've ever seen.

The side cover on the sender comes off, and you can clean the elements inside with a q-tip and 91% alcohol. How sketchy is the rest? Pics?

Better pics with everything preliminary adjusted and tightened. Ignore the blown apart steering stuff at the moment... Off Low beams High beams

Still waiting on my local fab shop for something to cure my steering interference issue. In the meantime I went ahead and checked off another item on my wish list. Hella 550s, under $100. Wired in for factory style operation. Tapped the wires for C102 pins 6 and 10 on the engine control harness side since my lighting harness lacks all the fog light goods. Made 2 Y harnesses for the lights' power and ground and tucked them in neat with split loom. Hung the relay in the driver's side inner fender well close to where it would have been factory. Loving it...

Your aftermarket stereo will (should) come with a connector for itself, with bare ends for whatever you're putting it in. I used a Metra adapter from Crutchfield for the factory harness side. I don't have a 1990 Electrical manual, but I believe it's the same as 1988. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701002/Metra-70-1002-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html?tp=2977

From bottom to top - Drag links DS1238, DS1311, DS1310: The most conspicuous difference is the steering stabilizer stud boss orientation. 1311 is rolled rearward a hair more than our 1238. The 1310 is rolled back even further. I can't see a way that this would matter at all, function or fitment. Tie rod stud boss is identical on all 3- .553" small side, .625" large side. Sleeve threading orientation to centerline of the drag link is straight on the 1238 and 1311. It's slightly canted to the rear on the 1310. The 1310 is .65" longer at the threaded sleeve end than the 1238, and the 1311 is .88" longer than the 1238.

Might be helpful, this guy @WAEMID IVis a Club member. One of the best dissertations on CAD, its vacuum, and indicator light I've ever seen: 4x4 dashboard light

Mine's a complete drivetrain swap from a '93 YJ, plus '99-'01 intake and keeping the 93 exhaust manifold on the '93 7120 head. My exhaust is a mix of off the shelf parts. But it's all controlled by Renix computer and harnesses. I did have to do some mods to the harness wrapping on the injector harness for the IAC and TPS connectors to get them to reach, plus making a harness extension for the IAT. I did a Durango V8 alternator swap with an external regulator as well, but all the original Renix harnesses could still be pulled and put on any other Renix vehicle, plug & play. The engine control harness is from '89 or '90, pretty sure it's '89. So all sensors I have are for Renix. Essentially I just went the route of least effort/ lowest cost I could manage to run an HO drivetrain on Renix. any 4.0 head will fit on any 4.0 block...

Yes, I'm considering the DS1311 drag link as an option due to its extra .88" length at the threaded end. DS1312 is the steering tie rod from drag link to left knuckle. I've already got a beefy solution for that part myself and it uses the ends you have listed above. DS1311 remains an option over the DS1238 drag link for extra sleeve engagement on rigs > 4" lift, though it is too long for rigs < 3-4" lift. Like I said the DS1238 is adequate on 6" but another .88" sleeve thread engagement is a good thing on higher lifts with room for it.

@coolwind57 How much lift are you running? I'm looking at running the DS1311 to get a little more engagement in the sleeve due to the lift. What I have with the DS1238 is adequate, but the gap in the sleeve is greater than the additional .88" length of the DS1311 with the steering wheel straight on 6" lift. I'd think the DS1311 would be a good fit for rigs over 4" lift. EDIT: I just looked through your build thread again, are you still "2-1/2" lift up front and 1" lift on the back." ?

Not much progress lately. The last 3 weeks have been 70+ hour work weeks with Volvo work in between. First day off from everything Saturday. I put fluid in the brake system and bled it, quick and easy with the Wilwood valve. Yesterday, I spent some time on maintenance with my 92 C1500 street rod truck and 94 Firebird. Then I started going through some of the nut and bolt stuff on the front end of the MJ. Discovered an interference issue turning to the right with the drag link/ tie rod joint and sway bar link. Considering putting more bend in the drag link, outboard of the TRE to draw it forward for right turn clearance. Downside is having to do that every time I replace it in the future... Not interested in spending over $700 for a Currectlync setup to fix a minor issue with a D30.

Last 2 pics bringing back the memories on my project. Your floors are way better at least. Seems like you have all the skills and equipment to do the 97+ swap. No judgement from me if you go that route. I only went halfway and did HO on Renix. My HOA would not have stood for me cutting up a junk XJ in my driveway or back yard.

I admit I'd love to have one of those just to see how much of a difference it makes. It would fit my setup since I've HO swapped, but I'd have to go back to a log-style intake. What's your plan, since you're starting with an all-Renix setup? This cylinder head is machined to accept both distributor or coil pack ignition. To optimize airflow, this cylinder head is designed with a 1991-2006 4.0L intake port location and 1991-98 4.0L exhaust port size. As a result, this cylinder head must be used with a 1991-2006 intake manifold and a 1991-1998 exhaust manifold. Aftermarket exhaust headers can also be used in place of 1991-1998 exhaust manifolds and MUST be used in place of 1999-2006 exhaust manifolds. Most aftermarket exhaust headers are compatible, but please check with the exhaust header manufacture to verify. This head is NOT compatible with 1999-2006 OEM exhaust manifolds. This thread might help you consider options:

Looking good! No moss growing on this project...

Friday: Saturday:

Different world working on European cars... not the world I prefer lol

Please say more about this - I just set one up with new carrier bearings and outer axle shaft bearings (89 non-c-clip). Made me paranoid I might miss something...

Oh, duh. Yeah. This is it here’s the 2008 t5 as well:

Dropped the head off at my machinist in Raleigh on my lunch break. Won't be nearly as cheap as the last head for the turbo 2008 car. But he thinks he can have it ready by the end of the week. w00t!

Poor car... alternator belt failed and murdered the timing belt. I've done this entire job before on a 2008 V50 2.5 t5. Diagnosed it yesterday and realized I'd be doing what I'm about to do again... Oh man... A few hours later... We got this car for my oldest daughter in 2018. I did a bunch of additional work to it and it was a great college car for her. Soon after I spotted a 2008 V50 turbo on Craigslist and got it for $1100. Broken timing belt, bent valves, etc. That one only had 110,000 miles on it and was a beautiful ice blue. Final cost on that one, including purchase, tow to my house, upper end parts and machine work was $1910. I was going to flip it for about $6500 but my daughter really liked it and wanted it. My middle daughter is only 17 months behind her so the 2005 went to her and my oldest took the turbo. They're my step-daughters but I love them like I made them myself, so this seemed like a good arrangement to get them both in reliable cars. This car survived the Asheville floods from Helene, being parked on high ground at the Lookout Observatory. Sat there for 5 weeks undisturbed, miraculously, and fired right up after sitting. Before we gave it to my middle daughter in 2021, I went through the interior and made it as nice as the other one. The door panel skins on these Volvo P1 platform cars eventually peel into a sticky mess. I had a local interiors shop re-skin them (almost $700) and the darned thing has brand new tires and brakes, and only 220,000 miles. Everyone calls this car "Valerie." So I'm saving her... The MJ is a secondary concern for the moment. Big thanks to JT in Newport, NC for letting us use his shop space to work on her. Love to Kenli and AJ for the extra pairs of hands, and to Klara who's patiently waiting for this all to be done.

And it's in. Pinion angle needs to come back down 1.5* with the XJ shackles on it now, and right at another 1.5* when the MJ shackles go back on.

UPS showed up on Monday and I got wood... and Volvo parts.

Looks like the rear washer motor connector, now missing its plastic. Not used on MJ, the same portion of harness was used for XJs that had an additional washer motor for the rear. Fine just like it is- tuck it or zip tie it to something out of the way.