Gojira94

Transfer case is in and Part-Time light is wired. However... I've remembered that the 93 YJ it came from had CAD. Turns out ALL YJs had CAD. And the 231 yoke on the YJs used straps instead of bolts. I do have a 231 from a 98 XJ that's for parts (locked up solid, haven't taken it apart yet). I can swap the yoke but man, that would have been easier to do on the garage floor. Last gift of the YJ case is this little factoid I remember from early project research. No big deal, just something to keep in mind for now. The early NP231 transfer case used in conjuction with vacuum controlled front axle hub disconnect on early XJ & YJ Jeeps did not have a true neutral disconnect between front and rear axles when the 231 is shifted into neutral, as controlled by crown in the sector plate on the left. The later 231's did have true front / rear disconnect, as controlled by the valley in the sector plate, right.

~HAPPY 38TH BIRTHDAY TO MY MJ~ 1JTHS641XHT137765 Build date 3/30/87 Body code TL61 Sold by CROSS COUNTRY MOTORS, INC, WILSON NC (Long gone, was 25 minutes east of where she sits now) *X1 -Y1 APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DCB Transmission - 4-Speed Manual EPD ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) PE4 Colorado Red QE4 Colorado Red SBA POWER STEERING TBG SPARE TIRE - COMPACT WMC BASE WHEEL DRESS - UP (INCLS TRIM RING)

Ordered one just now. H3lls y34h...

If any of that hard line can be saved, the less rubber or vinyl hose you end up using, and the better off you'll be. Any pics of what's left of the hard line? I had to clean mine out with acetone and some patience but it was worth saving. Just had a little rust to clean off of the engine side end of it, the rest was in good shape. I realize that not everyone might be as fortunate.

The inner diameter of the hard line is very small, maybe 3/32". That said, you could certainly use 3/16" brake line to make a copy of the current, rotted one. At the tank, there are 2 vent/ rollover valves that join together near the fuel inlet/ outlet from the tank via 7/32" emission hose and connect to the EVAP hard line at/ near the fuel hard lines by the tank. The vent valves are still made by a few companies, including Dorman. The grommets that hold the valves in the top of the tank are also readily available. At the canister end, I used whatever I could find in my toolbox/ parts drawers for emissions connectors to make it happen. the large HDPE pipe that runs from the air filter box over to the canister goes on the larger port toward the front of the truck, the one marked 'purge' is capped, and the middle one goes to the hard line. The hard line terminates above and inboard of the brake booster. From there, 5/32" or 7/32" emissions hose to get to the canister.

Thank you! It’s a long road… to the road lol.

Wiring work, and everything else under the hood, complete. Now, onto the interior wiring and dash. Also need to clean the header panel and reinstall it, along with the front bumper.

One month's worth of operations sent.

Minor update- I got the fan relay arrangement buttoned up and loomed, ballast resistor hung. I still need to terminate the power connection for the fan motor, I'm out of zip ties long enough to piggyback on the engine harness crossover under the chin. I've got the washer line plumbed and wires loomed. Just need to make the connections. For the low washer lamp I'm missing Pin 15 on C204, like most if not all pre-HO MJs. I'll tuck in the connector for C168 for now. I need to go harvest a pin for the instrument cluster soon so I can pretty much do what @Airborne Janitor did for his.

System wiring under the hood nearing completion. Alternator and external regulator wired. Big ground point added in RH fender panel. Tied into original alternator's yellow wire for switched 12V for the regulator, then zip tied and tucked the original alt connector. Power distribution about buttoned up. 200A alternator fuse (160A alt). Mockup battery is from 2016 according to the sticker on it lol. Good core for when I'm ready. The starter relay is backwards and upside down for fitment.

Home brew fan control harness, missing on my rig:

Thanks, I will be dressing things up before it’s all done. Just in the fitting stage right now. I found an old pic from 2022 where I’d just taken off the header panel and it was just like this. That doesn’t mean it hasn’t been moved since 1987 though my concern was getting the header panel on without a struggle. I think I’ll be ok either way.

In front of, or through the middle of the fender braces?

Little bit of work done on lunch break after working in Raleigh the last 2 days. I made the extension for the IAT sensor and got it tucked in the way I want it. Also tidied up the passenger side end of the Engine Control Harness.

That’s exactly what I’m doing. No splices needed, IAC and TPS connectors and pinouts are the same. But the IAC and TPS wires in the Renix ECH need to be pulled out from the main portion of the harness and moved back toward the cowl about 4-5” so they can reach. Again, IAC pin out is the same. TPS is too, just need to make or buy an adapter for the Renix TPS to HO throttle body. My build thread is pretty in-depth on putting Renix control on an HO engine.

Coil and module move is done. I need to fix up the loom by the diagnostic connectors, though. In other news, the bumper is done and reassembled.

Mr. Thexton says yes. I wrestled with this for a while trying to answer the same question. In the pic below, the one on the left is from a '93 YJ. On the right, from an '89 XJ. Outer pin pair on both reads 50 Ohms. Inner pair on both reads 50 Ohms. Both move their pintles in the same direction in response to input from the tool. Note the different shape of the pintle caps, they're not interchangeable, as the idle air circuit passage shape is slightly different.

Rewinding back in time to my decision to relocate the coil and module- I wasn't sure if the connectors would reach. They don't. I'd hoped the wires for C213 & C214 would pull cleanly together out of the harness for extra slack to reach if not. They don't. So, what I'm doing is reorganizing it a bit to get C213 and C214 into one corrugated sheath and join the main part of the ECH between the cruise servo and blower motor. Yes, this is cutting into an intact survivor post-C101 Renix harness, but it would go back onto any other Renix, the only difference being extra length for C213 & C214. 1) Remove C213 pin C (18Ga, Grn w/trace) from splice R - extend green wire from C213 up and route back down and re-create the splice, so C213 & C214 can join the engine control harness at the same point. 2) Remove C213 pin A (14Ga Yel) from splice F - move further up, again so C213 & C214 can join the engine control harness at the same point.

Underneath, everything lines up well for O2, knock and CTS.

Sunday I started working the Engine Control Harness. Mine is Renix, from 89 or 90, so no C101 to contend with. Some changes are needed to make it work. Injector #3 connector won't reach straight up and down, as Renix didn't have the throttle bracket where it is on my setup. Tilting it works, but the rear arch of the throttle bracket needs significant clearancing to get the connector under it. TPS and IAC wires have to come out of the harness and move back about 4" to reach on an HO throttle body. All HO intake designs have the throttle body base exactly the same position, distance and elevation from the intake ports in the (HO) heads. I also have to make a connector adapter from the Renix IAT sensor connector to the updated GM IAT, relocated far away on the horseshoe intake. It'll run along the valve cover and shoot across between injectors 2 & 3. I haven't cleaned my throttle body and installed the TPS adapter yet.

A couple things done on Saturday. Mostly the HVAC (in my case heater only) box. If you've ever taken one out, the studs probably came out of the housing when you backed off the nuts on the engine side. I screwed mine back in with some black RTV in each hole for extra grip. I also put a drop of black RTV at the base of the studs and slipped on a thin rubber washer (5/16" x 3/4") for each of the 5 studs. On the outside I applied the same washers under each nut so they're sealed as well as possible against water intrusion. My OCD in overdrive... I capped off the pink line to what would have been the heater control valve (long gone) and looped the black line to the check valve off the main vacuum source line (partially hidden behind the cruise vacuum dump hose).

Thanks! I got the oil filter adapter from EBay. Every time an XJ would show up in my local salvage yard, the adapter would be gone the first half of the day it hit the yard. The EBay seller’s location was 35 minutes west of my house. That meant 2 things- he’s the guy that’s getting them all, and shipping would be fast lol. Price was $50, it came thoroughly cleaned and with the Fel-Pro gasket set for it. That’s only about $7-10 more than it would have cost me to get it myself, including entry fee plus the gasket set. The gold part is the 87-90 ‘Renix’ version of the oil pressure sending unit. That’s the one for gauge. The zinc coating gives it its color. The dummy light version is a switch, and smaller.

The IAC will try to compensate if the throttle blade is a little too far closed at idle, or too much open. It can be defeated and not be able to open or close off enough air if the throttle stop is too far either way but that doesn't look like an issue, though stalling with throttle snapping closed could indicate it's a little too closed and the IAC can't increase bypass air quickly enough to keep it from stalling. I don't recall if the 1990 fuel rail has a Schrader valve. We used to tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield back in the day lol. I can see that being difficult with the hood on and shut far enough to drive safely. When you do the cap and rotor, cut a window on the old cap an rotate the engine to TDC on #1 and see where the rotor tip is. A complete write-up on that is in Cruiser54's Renix tips Index under the Modifications & Repairs sub-forum. Here's mine before and after:

When the throttle snaps shut at RPMs above 12-1500 or so, here's what happens: MAP drops to lowest possible (15-25kPA), engine braking starts. A LOT of timing advance is needed here due to the leaning of the mixture (see #2). flip side of MAP drop is vacuum increase, pulls hardest on FPR diaphragm, more than idle, part throttle or WOT). This equals lowest possible fuel pressure. unknown if Renix calibrations have a DFCO (Deceleration Fuel Cut-Off) or other similar routine, I'd guess there is some form of one to reduce fueling in decel. IAC opens more (pintle retracts) some number of extra steps to prevent stalling on closed throttle (TPS) with RPMs above ECU's target idle value in gear. Things to check related to drivability/ stalling will be if there is adequate fuel under decel, if timing is adequate and whether the IAC can provide the bypass air needed. Highly unlikely that the ECU-commanded extra spark advance will be changed, though it's possible that indexing of the distributor prevents commanded advance from being actually on the rotor tip (complete loss of spark at commanded degrees of advance). Other is vacuum leaks adding more air than commanded spark advance can burn with leaner than expected condition (inadequate fuel for condition). You're pretty sure vacuum leaks are out of the equation. Easiest thing to verify is fuel pressure at the rail. Distributor index check is obviously more effort. A check and cleaning of the IAC motor and housing never hurts. (you already did this)