knever3

I indeed have the Wix filter which is metric. So that means I have a Renix filter on an H.O. 90 degree mount. What a mess.

It should be an AMSOIL EA042 or a Wix 51381. I will snap a pic later today, If I look up those two filters one is metric, the other standard.

Hmm.... My filter housing looks like this: See how close the battery terminal is to the end of the filter? I always thought I had put my Renix one back on when I built it, but the block is from the H.O. era. I always seem to have problems finding a filter to fit, well, one that is any good. I always have to order one in, they always have the junk $6 filters, but no good brands. I will look at my filter, it's an Ams Oil filter currently. I didn't know they would rotate, but if I am going that route, I better replace the O-Rings since they are going to leak once I break it loose. What would you do? 1.) Replace the filter housing with the old style Renix? 2.) Rotate the current filter housing? Pro's Cons?

I posted in the wanted section and poked around in the search, but not finding what I am looking for. I have the old Renix style oil filter that points to the rear of the engine, my short oil filter hits my Mean Green starter. I need to change to the one that locates the filter upwards, plus it's hard to find filters for this Dinosaur. Does anyone have one that want to part with, plus links to the O-rings would be a bonus!! Thanks!

I have a Renix engine, my oil filter points to the back of the truck, I have a hard time changing the filter because it hits my starter. I want to put a newer style filter adapter on it with the new O-rings. It will need to be shipped to 48640.

What flexplate did you use? They are balanced as well, but can't be installed in a different clock position. How is the water pump/clutch fan?

My current alternator (See what I did there...) is a completely new Bosch 100A alternator. I think I am going to add a volt meter and hall effect ammeter to my truck, they are pretty cheap. I'll just put the sensor on my alternator charge wire and can see what float voltage is, charging voltage and current at any given scenario. The Autozone static test that gave me a "ok" print out was a joke, especially after the idle was at 1100rpm's at the time. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Waterproof-Display-Voltmeter-Transformer/dp/B0BFJ5NV5L/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aJvoGqVcTh33MrpnnbjyqAVDWW0thAKt7BT1eFhIKylxLS7bd_ITvqkz9bv_9hIoJ6OyYj568hxDaaA0PZJRICjtvA9WtB-hX1MSYi_ivKUTUQFRwQTw67dkjNpBaO0raO6jJoLnU0qzPBNZnpIIM9H1xlQ_-jXYmtFLb26Pa419rHjVQqKw7Kayk4oAaUQT7pEuZjJmjW77Q8QPqmDm3Y8AgzpwXOT1csQ2ZYEUXpQ.xmgRCQSZ3Nbtp0CkEU4uGFIlLiQYkfHNo1R-D3In9Go&dib_tag=se&keywords=hall+effect+current+sensor&qid=1770061054&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I think my hunch was correct on having the wrong information entered into the scanner. JTMW6416HT173200 is my VIN, but entering it in the decoder doesn't do anything. If T is my 10th digit on the scanner it says my truck is a 1996. I selected 1987 and 1990 since I don't have the VIN for the 1990 XJ I grabbed the Auto computer and TCM from. Anyway, it works again. I must be missing a digit before the J, but from my picture I can't seem to find one there. I did some researching and it seems like I am missing the "1" first digit which didn't show up on my picture I took somehow. I had Autozone use some cheap meter to see if my alternator was charging, but I don't trust it. If I turn my headlights and fog lights on my battery voltage goes down to 13.2v. I think the alternator is not putting out enough amperage to keep the voltage up at low idle. I don't really feel like taking it out to have it bench tested, but I don't have any way to load test it other than measuring voltage while some accessories are on.

Funny you mention that, the 9v keep alive battery was bad when I pulled it out of storage, after replacing it with a fresh battery the readings were erratic. Hmm.... I am wondering if I am picking the correct options. I have an '87 which used to be a manual with no A/C, but now the ECU is from a '90. I wonder if the setup I just picked is wrong. My truck runs exactly like that, maybe just a stroker/renix thing. I may be asking too much for a steady idle.

I really enjoy all the effort you put into your post, sorry I didn't provide the details. '87 Comanche that was a manual 2wd originally. I swapped in an automatic and TCM and ECM from a '90 as well as the engine bay harness eliminating the C101 connector. I have a '94 block (bored 0.60 over and KB forged pistons with stock 4.0 rods making it a 4.7L stroker) a '96 head, a '99 intake and an HO BBK throttle body, '95 fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. I can't remember my running fuel pressure at the moment. I have 21lb/hr fuel injectors if I remember correctly. EGR deleted. This is of course running the '90 Renix engine control. I have run a smoke test recently, the throttle body bearings have a slight leak, but not severe. The crazy part is the readings with the MT-2500. At idle all of the readings are all over the place, I can't begin to troubleshoot if that is the case. Strange thing is, it seemed to be idling just fine, but the RPM, throttle position, manifold vacuum etc. is all over the place!! This morning I remote started it and heard it surge up and down the whole time it was running, mind you it's -11°F this morning. I would like to see what the IAC motor is doing one of these days, but if the scanner is not giving me the correct information then all is lost. On a separate matter, my alternator doesn't seem to charge at idle. I had recently replaced my battery because of hard starting, it had a bad cell and was not keeping a charge. I noticed that off idle my headlights would dim, then get brighter when I just moved off idle. My idle was low, at 550 rpm, so that might be normal for an alternator to no provide a charge. All I know if if I remote start it and run it for the desired time it's just draining the battery for the 20 minutes, and for my 10 minute drive it has to hurry up and charge it back. I don't have a long drive to work. I adjusted my throttle plate screw to get up to the required 750 RPM, but that should be the IAC motor's job. The throttle plate screw should be just a stop when the butterfly is closed against the body. Oy

I am 13 years into figuring out why my idle is erratic. I just changed the idle air control again with the '91+ style for the BBK throttle body. I pulled the IAC and cleaned and measured the resistance. Idle was low at 550rpm so I adjusted the throttle plate screw a touch and it stayed at 750rpm. I was watching the rpm on the MT-2500 and it went nuts, rpm and theottle position was all over the place, all at idle in park. What in the world! I wiggled the diagnostic connector and the wiring for the sensors and it didn't change.

I think I have a Rexix one, I have an updated H.O. style in the box. That is the next step.

Correct, I think they used leaky sealed bearings. I will post the result. I wish you can post a video without having to post it on youtube

I have been chasing an erratic idle for YEARS. I finally bought a smoke machine and after 5 minutes or so I saw smoke coming out of both sides of the shaft. After looking at BBK's website they don't sell ANY repair parts or provide rebuild service. What a crock, they will offer to sell you another! Great business model.