Motorhead X

Thank you guys. Mod went good. I used a step bit down to 11/16" and a Dorman grommet out of an assortment pack.

This looks good. Maybe a 3/4" hole and 5/8" piece of tubing? Did you find the grommet and tubing at an auto parts store or did you have parts laying around?

HALF MJ ?

Yes, that's the direction I'm thinking of going. Actually, the CAI has been surprisingly good and does have an air box to a greater degree. It seems the stock box was limiting for air flow which is the main reason I installed it. At the very least, it sounds fantastic. I have no way of determining if it increases power, but my impression is it does, more than I was expecting. Install was a pain because it doesn't fit correctly out of the box and required some hammering on the connection braces, one of which there is no way it will work. But it is solidly anchored in place. I don't plan on going back to the stock box unless this EVAP situation doesn't get resolved properly.

The MJ is running and sounding better than ever with my new Rough Country CAI, but now my EVAP line is venting gas fumes into my engine bay because the CAI did not come with a connection for the EVAP system. I want to avoid gas fumes altogether when it goes in the garage. Should I add a custom connection to the air intake tube or disconnect the EVAP system entirely (if so, how is that done). No inspection here in NC. Thanks everyone.

My MJ started having occasional hard shifts, especially up to the top gear. It was overdue for a fluid change at 35K miles, so I did a quick 3 qt. drain and refill, which helped some. I'm now going to drop the pan to replace the filter and do a larger fluid change. Should I change the solenoids while I'm in there? I ordered them from Rock Auto, but now I'm wondering if the solenoids either "work or don't". Shifting points seem fine and the occasional clunky, hard shifts are more present at lower rpms. If I'm gassing it, they seem to shift a bit smoother. Thanks.

Update… I swapped the temp sensor and no change. Hard startups are becoming more frequent, regardless of engine temp. But it’s the worst when the engine is just kinda warm after sitting for a couple of hours. Starts a bit better when cold or at operating temp. I’m considering changing the CPS. Could that cause difficult starting, or is that more of a "it works or doesn’t" type of thing? Do MJ’s ever get vapor lock? Side note - I heard the strangest screeching sound coming from under the driver’s side suspension area while going 70mph down the highway today. My first reaction was Oh Crap WTH! Turns out it was just a long thin stick that was howling. Whew.

This is a great look. Seriously considering these or maybe some street T/A’s.

We’re almost twins. My MJ is pretty much stock as well and all street. Next set of tires might be some street TA’s if I can find some that will work. There’s a 2 inch spring lift on the front, but I sometimes miss the old nose dive look. Enjoying your build.

I never noticed any vibration from mine, even when the rubber was moderately deteriorating. I replaced it anyhow. This does sound like an engine issue though because you notice it in park. I had a different type of vibration that took me two years to figure out, so I REALLY understand your predicament. It ending up being two bad wheels and that totally screwed my brain. Had the wheels balanced numerous times. I even bought a new set of 4 steelies that turned out to be bogus. Finally bought some nice alloy rims and solved it, but only after replacing lots of my suspension, driveshaft, u-joint, tires, etc.. etc. I even tried different levels of AT fluid in my AW4! Maybe consider trying a different set of plug wires or injectors. I have bought many new parts lately that just don’t work properly. It seems like you have covered all the bases.

Sorry in advance for highjacking this thread. I’m chasing down a possible vacuum leak and I noticed the hose connector to the MAP is getting hardened and might not be seating as well as it should be. Many of my other lines are getting old and need to be replaced. I’ve completely blocked off the lines at the intake going to the HVAC system because the thin plastic lines are broken in places. Should I look through the yards for these parts or try making my own somehow? I also installed a new MAP and the first two replacements from O’reilly’s were DOA out of the box. The third one from NAPA lasted a week. I put the old GM manufactured MAP back in this morning and at least it starts now.

I still think this Photoshopped version would’ve been a better build for the Gladiator. The actual four door has grown on me a bit. Probably never buy one though. Anyone own one and like it?

More often when it’s up to temp. But still can be regardless of temp. I let it sit for a few days and it started right up. But then I start driving it more and it seems to act up. Seems obvious to me now I should replace the temp sensor. Thank you!

More cranking than normal. I’ll check those manifold bolts. I changed the exhaust manifold a few years ago, so could be the culprit and I am suspicious of vacuum leaks. If no luck, I’ll give that CPS a shot. Thanks.

Make absolutely sure they gave you the correct RMS size. I had this same issue after doing the job twice. Took it to a mechanic for the third time who let me know the parts person gave me an incorrect part. Not saying this is your problem, but just my experience.