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About Dzimm

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    Comanche Fanatic

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    Colfax, Iowa

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  1. A stock MJ in good running order would have no problems doing it. You need to go through and service everything, inspect and replace any bad joints/bearings in the front end. As you say you have a wobble, you should probably just plan on replacing all the joints and bearings up front so it's done and you don't have to worry about it. Do ALL of Cruiser's tips as well as replace all fluids if you haven't already. I personally would be going through absolutely everything I could on the truck before the trip and bring tools with you just in case. Also would highly recommend having a contingency plan in place in case you break down. Driving it would be my first choice as well, the money you spend on the truck rather than a tow/transport service will be a much better investment.
  2. That cab would be a good candidate for a Cheromanche build!
  3. No problem, that's what we are here for! Hope everything works for ya, but from experience I'll say there will likely be something not working when you go to start it. Just the way it goes.
  4. This^^^ kind of a pain to drill them out but not too bad.
  5. I'm a little confused as well. I have done the 97+ swap but I used an aw4 so no clutch pedal. Not very hard to mount the dash, just some modifications to the mounts.
  6. If you plan on using a factory cluster you could probably use any speedo that would work for the truck. There are some companies that make custom cluster inserts to make it all look cohesive or custom. There are all kinds of designs you can use.
  7. Get your new shaft before figuring pinion angle, it will be much easier to figure out with the new shaft. Easiest way I have found to measure for a new shaft is to put the old shaft on the truck if it's long enough, which in your case it is. Then find the mark on your yoke where the pinion seal has been riding, it should be pretty obvious, measure from old seal mark to the new location of the seal on the yoke and thats how much more length you need on the shaft. It will put it exactly where it should be. Otherwise most websites that sell shafts have instructions on how to measure for it.
  8. You have a 50/50 shot by just guessing. Otherwise stick the pushrods for cylinder one on the lifters and watch their position. Down will be valve closed, up will be valve opened. You could use a cardboard box to give them support if you have to as they may be too top-heavy to stand on their own, or have your buddy lightly keep them upright while letting them move up and down. For cylinder one the front pushrod is the exhaust valve and rear rod is intake. Turn it over and watch the rods move, when the cylinder is moving down the intake rod is also up, this will tell you the next time the piston moves up will be your compression stroke and thus be TDC at the top.
  9. Worst thing that would happen is the shaft could grab a hole and send itself through the bed of your truck and possibly send you off the road. Not gonna instantly send your truck end over end but definitely could total it. Mythbusters did a test on the driveshaft pole vault years ago and it's pretty gnarly what it can do. T-case drop won't do anything and you don't need it. The best option is a longer shaft, longer yoke will work as well. Get it towed as stated above, I'm surprised you made it as far as you did if you are really that close to reinserting it without removing the axle end.
  10. I'm confused.. in all my research into fuel and ignition control, every source I've come across says the XJ/MJ ECU is not able to be reprogrammed.
  11. Unfortunately you will be much further ahead by getting it put together and then measuring for the driveshaft. Being that you have an sye you will likely have more wiggle room with the measurements but you want to be as close as possible to perfect. You'd be surprised how much the slip joint moves and you really don't want it bottoming out or falling out. With that combo, I doubt anyone will have the measurement and even if they did, I'd measure it myself just to be sure. You may also get lucky and find out the length of shaft you need is sitting on a store shelf somewhere. That's how it worked out for my street truck and I had the brand new shaft at my door a few days later.
  12. The big question here is what year XJ did you get and what axle does it have under it? No point in swapping over a D35 or a 96- C8.25 because it's a 27 spline axle. if it's a 97+ XJ you will have the much stronger 29 spline C8.25 and is good for swapping into the MJ. Second major question is the MJ 4x4 and what gears does it and the XJ have? Your gear ratios MUST match front and rear. As stated you need to move the perches no matter what you do with the XJ axle. Do you plan on lifting? As stated above you will get quite a bit of lift from going spring over, stay spring under if you want to stay stock height or less than 6" of lift.
  13. We need to bring all the stuff over from the street Comanche Zoho site. I have an airdam off a California S/C, can't remember the number off the top of my head. I believe its the one stroker got his part from as well.
  14. Dzimm


    No reason to, nobody can remember everything that lives here. I only knew of this one because I was communicating with the seller of #12 throughout the sale to OGJeep.
  15. Dzimm


    #12 belongs to member OGJeep on here. He's got a tread in the build threads. Definitely should be brought over here tho.
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