Jump to content

Dzimm

Members
  • Content Count

    2208
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

2 Followers

About Dzimm

  • Rank
    Comanche Fanatic

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colfax, Iowa

Recent Profile Visitors

1807 profile views
  1. Yeah there seems to be quite a few people that say they reuse bolts with no issues and there is a lack of evidence in that being the cause of any issues. It's a peace of mind thing though to do so as something could happen, then again, something could happen with new bolts. I'll just reuse the nuts then (temporary anyway) assuming they come off easy. Just wanted to get some other points of view. Thanks!
  2. So I know it's not acceptable to reuse u-bolts but is it okay to reuse the nuts? I'm asking because I need to remove the leaf springs on the truck to swap some of the leaves. I have new D35 u-bolts already but I cannot find just the nuts anywhere (possibly due to search terms), because of this I was looking at new u-bolts and came across a few that didn't come with nuts and the description said to reuse the nuts. This got me thinking. The reasons always given for not reusing the bolts is that it's torque to yield and that the nut has sharp threads that cut the rounded ones on the bolt. The bolt is what stretches when it's tightened and the bolt threads are what are damaged, so it seems that the nuts should be fine to reuse. What is your guys thoughts? Or can anyone point me to new nuts, preferably the tall ones, that don't cost as much as a whole new bolt kit?
  3. I'd take it to where the work was done and have them give it a look. If it wasn't doing it before then it would be something that was installed or worked on more than likely.
  4. Nice! Figured you wouldn't have a real problem fixing it if they did anyway. Lol
  5. First unplug the trans computer and drive it like a manual to see what happens. If it still does it, then it's mechanical, if it doesnt do it, then it's electrical. If it's mechanical then do a fluid change and see what happens. If it's electrical, it could be anything. Start testing things. My 98 XJ had a slipping trans in 4th caused by an electrical issue, it turned out to be the CPS. As for the swap, I'd just change the fluid and throw it in. If it works it works. Be careful with the crossmember bolts, I've snapped them before and it sucked.
  6. Dzimm

    hottub Jeep machine

    This would be awesome to have. A hot tub that can go anywhere, in the garage, tailgating, camping, to a friend's house. The possibilities are endless. Probably be a good idea to unweld the rear suspension for travel and instead install supports under it when filled up.
  7. I will definitely do that. I need to make it safer before really jumping it hard again though, or really driving it... It's taken quite a bearing, it won't idle anymore, have to keep some revs to stay running. It also has no brakes, only handbrake. It's quite a sketchy rig right now. Need to devote some time to it.
  8. I'd agree with Pete, use a floor jack and a 2x4 inside the cab to push it back out. I did that with my rolled Suzuki sidekick and it worked very well. You'd be surprised how much you can do yourself, no it won't be like it was before, but it will be perfectly useable. It's really not that bad for the way you flopped, it must have been relatively soft. If I was close, I'd come over and help you push it back out. As for the bedside, your taillight looks to be okay so bang out what you can for now. If you eventually want to fix it, find a cab to cut that section from and a new bedside at a later date. In reality with a little elbow grease you can have it useable again for the cost of a driver's side window and mirror. I'd recommend putting a real rollbar in it at some point though as it is going to be weaker than before, at least until you can get a cab to replace that section.
  9. Yeah I was completely blown away by it. It feels like a sports car now.
  10. Dzimm

    Tinted Windows

    Tint it. I finally tinted my old XJ (white 2dr like yours) and wished I had done it earlier. I didn't go too dark but it made a huge difference not only with the heat in the summer but headlights from the rear at night were much more tolerable. From the outside it looked a ton better as well. Wish I would have gone darker actually. Privacy is nice as well. Just make sure to follow the tint laws in your state. Mine was not tinted originally so I bought a cheapo precut kit on eBay. Had it on for a few years before I sold it and it didn't fade or peal at all. The quality has gone up in them and they don't turn purple like they used to *my experience* and if you apply it carefully it shouldn't peal. Have someone assist you and use baby shampoo mixed with water to apply it.
  11. Installed the swaybar this morning. Unfortunately it is designed to be used with shocks that are just the metal piston, not ones with the metal housing. Since mine have a larger than normal metal housing, the upper brackets don't sit properly. They are slightly tilted toward the back causing the end links to not sit vertical and the bar to not sit perfectly parallel to the ground. It's close but not optimal. Judging by the length of the bar, I don't think the links would sit vertical unless the bar was completely under the axle. Once lowered, it appears the bar is long enough that I could move the upper brackets to the crossmember instead of the shock mount, which will be nice. I also need to get the spare tire out so I've got more room to work. I decided it has rained enough since they salted the roads that they were clean enough for a test drive. It was an absolute blast! I can't believe how much of a difference there is with the bar on it. The body roll is basically non-existent now and it handled so much better. I cannot wait to get the rest of the suspension done and get small tires on it. On recommendation from 70Barracuda, I ordered some ZJ rear coils to go on it. Once I get the last bits for the leaf spring rebuild, I'll get the front springs installed.
  12. Ahh yes. Thanks Eagle! That's why I chose MT90, easiest to identify/obtain of the acceptable gear oil.
  13. Definitely remove the fill plug first, I had a t-case with an immovable fill plug. That woulda sucked had I not checked it first. I used Redline MT90 in mine. Expensive but definitely felt better with new fluid. IIRC there is something to avoid do to the brass synchros, can someone comment on that at all?
  14. We definitely care, it's just hard at times to give answers, especially when we are going to say don't do what you are thinking of doing. It took me reading your question a few times to come up with an answer that wasnt just don't do that. I definitely know your pain on finding parts locally, these trucks don't exist around here. Your best bet is to get under it and see how bad it is on the inside and go from there. The new bedside would be nice since the seams would be hidden and would replace it all in one shot but shipping wouldn't be cheap and could get damaged since it's so large. For my truck I used front XJ fenders for the wheel arches since they are suprisingly close to the correct arch and cut up a clothes dryer for the sheetmetal to rebuild half of a bedside piece by piece, it was the same thickness and galvanized so less prone to rusting. I'm not a body man though so it's not perfect but much better than holes everywhere. If yours is patches of rust, you may be able to just do small patches with some sheetmetal.
  15. The bed does unbolt but the frame is too long for a short bed. I can't imagine the holes would line up and it would look goofy since you'd have a 8" gap between the cab and bed to center the wheel well. You could do some Fab work to make it fit (moving axle forward, cutting the rear of the frame shorter, relocating every mounting point) but would be way more work than it's worth IMO. Would probably be easier to cut the frame rails off a short bed and replace the back half of the truck, but again would be a ton of work for what you are trying to accomplish. If it's just one bedside that's bad, just replace the bedside. It's just some cutting and welding and you'd get to clean everything up while the bed was off, plus it would save a bed from the scrapyard. If the bed is bad all around it would be worth your time finding a replacement bed that's the correct size.
×
×
  • Create New...