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About Dzimm

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    Colfax, Iowa

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  1. The problem I see is that with the added width you will need either a lot of lift, cut out a lot of sheet metal, or probably both to make sure your tires don't hit anything. You'd have to do something to widen the rear and then with that you'd either have to remove the bed or severely chop up an MJ bed. I don't see any reason it can't be done unless the pumpkin isnt in the correct spot to line up the front driveshaft. As mentioned it's probably not an advisable thing to do unless you really need the strength but it sounds like there are better options.
  2. Value is totally depending on location and what is available in your area. In the rust belt, they fetch a higher price especially if they are rust free. Check the local craigslist/facebook market place for an idea of starting price. As far as axles, as Pete mentioned the Libby C8.25 is a very good axle as it adds tons of strength and disk brakes. If you go with this axle, make sure it's the one with a u-joint pinion instead of the flange. Whatever axle you go with you will need to make sure you get new perches welded on in the correct location and the correct pinion angle. Wit
  3. I want all the things.... I've never seen so many Super Birds/Daytona's in one place even in pictures!
  4. Post up what you end up using, I'm in need of some as well for my red truck. What's the green wire running along there? Just curious.
  5. This^^^ I was also able to get a wrench on mine, there is just enough of a gap to get it in there.
  6. Final tweaks have been made and I am ready to send you one to make sure it works with the real REM. PM me your address. I left the tolerances a tad large due to potential variation in consoles and REMs since they are 3D printed, they may vary a bit. I'm curious if it'll make any noise on the road with the two piece design. My XJ is still tore apart otherwise I'd go test it out. I will make these available to everyone once JMO413 gets his and makes sure it works and doesn't need any further tweaks. They are roughly 15 hours to pr
  7. ComancheKid45 posted this driveshaft length list back in 2010 and figured I'd bring it here for reference. I put your trucks info in bold below. Your stock driveshaft should measure 50" u-joint to u-joint. Go out and double check to make sure that's correct. For the C8.25 you want to lose 1"-1.25" on the driveshaft. There are plenty of 49" steel shafts for sale online for around $150 that come with new u-joints so I'd keep that as your price point for sure. lwb,_2.8,____tf 3speed,____np207,_amc20= 53"_____d35= 54" lwb,_2.8,____ax5-ax4,______np207,_amc20= 53.75"__d35= 54.7
  8. I'd keep looking for better prices on the axles. That definitely is high. Check carpart.com for yards all over. $150-$200/axle is the going rate around central Iowa. Don't be afraid to drive a little to get a good price. For leaves, hopefully someone will chime in who has lifted and kept the 1ton pack. I believe there is somewhere that sells lifted 1ton packs but I don't believe those go to 4.5". If you aren't too concerned about weight capacity, you can get the full lift pack and have no issue selling the 1ton packs.
  9. Yes thanks for clearing this up, forgot the first year of the Libby was drums still.
  10. Pete hit it on the nose (snout ). It's right around an inch of difference for the C8.25. Typically you would want to measure after install but you can go with an inch and be plenty good.
  11. The Libby axle install itself is the same as the XJ. The difference is the brakes. With the XJ drums you just hook your E-brake and brake lines up and go. No changes needed. I don't think it's been mentioned yet but you will need a new driveshaft or to have yours cut down a bit with the new axle as the diffs are slightly longer. I lucked out and found a premade shaft online that was the correct length for my 92 and at a good price. With a Libby axle, you need to find a brake distribution block from a ZJ that had rear disk brakes. You cannot reuse the stock MJ dist block becau
  12. I'm guessing they probably rub on the lower control arms. If that's the case, you can swap the bent lower control arms from IIRC a WJ to get the clearance. If you want ease and cheaper then just go with the 97+ XJ C8.25. to swap you'll just cut off the perches and shock mounts, weld on new perches in the MJ locations, then attach your brake lines and you are done. The only part you've got to be really careful about is getting the pinion angle correct. Plenty of threads here for this swap for more details. You'll also have the old axle to get measurements off of for the mounti
  13. Dzimm


    I wasn't impressed with them either. I ordered my FEY bumper from them when I built my first truck because it was $50 cheaper than everywhere else. It arrived with a slight bend/dent in the corner from being dropped on the end. Definitely not something you'd want in a new product but you can't tell unless your really looking for it. After a few phone calls and told I'd have to send it back and they would decide if it was actually damaged, I was offered a discount on a future purchase. I was sick of dealing with them so took that but never ended up using it. Haven't even been t
  14. Yeah definitely need a lot of production to get any RTI
  15. It's up to you but I'd recommend not changing the tires. The D35 is a light duty truck axle. They are just fine at street driving and mild off-road with stock tires but as soon as you change tires, especially bigger tires off-road, it'll be likely to break. I've also heard stories of guys with stock tires on a street only truck have that axle break. Just not worth the risk IMO. Some guys have also had success running bigger tires on it so it may just come down to luck. If you are going to lift the truck, I'd recommend doing tires last anyway. You may not like the look of the
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