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Dzimm

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About Dzimm

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    MJ Junkie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colfax, Iowa

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  1. I found the original key to my XJ in the cargo area under the carpet under the spare tire. Spare keys are hidden in some strange places.
  2. Put tall jackstands under the frame then use a jack on the opposite side of the axle to push it up this forcing the side you are working on down. Make sure you have the track bar, shocks, and sway bar disconnected. You shouldn't have to remove control arms to get the springs in but you should be replacing at least the lowers to accommodate the lift so put the spring in while it's removed and it will be easier.
  3. The floors are different between MJ and XJ. They are close enough that you could make it work though. IF you found an MJ with a good enough floor to cut out, it's likely not a parts truck and thus would be a waste.
  4. Sweat!! Great way to describe the early 70s cars vs the cars of today. Imagine that being the other way around. I've always wanted a 70 Challenger T/A 440 6pack in a deep purple color with the T/A stripe.
  5. That is a very nice truck! Really like the color. Need to move the tire into the bed to show off the tailgate.
  6. Take a look at the firewall in your trucks and compare. You should be able to notice any differences. I would recommend using an XJ to get your parts to keep both MJs on the road. The MJ is actually more related to the 4 dr XJs as that's the platform it was built on. The front doors from a 4dr XJ bolt right up to the MJ. Damn near everything from the A-pillar forward is the same as an XJ. This includes the dash, pedals, steering column, windshield, A-pillar trim, kick panel trim, fenders, front clip, everything in the engine bay, front axle, ect. The only thing you need to worry about is the changes to the electronics and some various sensors from Renix to HO. Really there are only 2 pieces specific to 2dr XJs and MJs that you won't find in a 4dr XJ and they are the flip forward front seats, and the door switch panel with only 2 window switches. The center console, seat brackets, headliner, and rear interior trim pieces are really the only things that are different.
  7. Would be really cool if someone used the MJ fuel tank and fuel pump to rig up a portable gas/diesel pump rig. Not a ton of extra fuel but some. Could be useful for an adventure trailer perhaps.
  8. I always heard to steer clear of track bears. They are apparently a lot of work to own and quite dangerous...
  9. Interesting lol. Nice looking manche
  10. I happen to have an older booster with newer pedal laying around so I put them together and that resulted in the pedal not even close to hitting the brake switch which is adjusted all the way back and the booster spacer is installed. I realize I don't have the firewall here but that's not 3/4" thick. Without the spacer it would be pretty close. Did you run into this at all? I'm wondering if maybe your brake light switch is adjusted so far in it's not letting the pedal come out completely maybe?
  11. Ah yes I see what you did. I've only seen the swap the other way (new booster with old pedal) and with that you have to do some modification to get it to work. Did you have to push the booster to pedal rod to get the pedal hooked up?
  12. Pictures would help. Sounds like your booster to pedal rod is too long for the pedal assembly so the pedal is actually keeping some pressure on the brakes. In that case, since you already have the spacer between the booster and firewall, adjusting the inner rod would probably fix it.
  13. What clip are you talking about? Did you swap out the brake pedal assembly when swapping the AX-15? Is the pedal sitting where it's supposed to be? Did you add or remove any spacers between the booster and firewall? To adjust the rod I'm talking about, leave the brake lines hooked up but unbolt the master from the booster and pull it out of the booster. You will see a rod in there that you can adjust. On the dual diaphragm ones it's a rod with an adjustment screw on the end and you have to hold the rod with needle nose and spin the adjuster in. Push the master back in to see if you feel it engage before the mounts bottom out against the booster, you will feel the master pushing fluid. If you feel that, then it needs adjusted. If not, it's fine. That rod needs to just barely not touch the master. You make small adjustments at a time and push the master back in to feel the engagement on the rod. As soon as you no longer feel the engagement, you shouldn't have brake drag anymore but if you go too far you won't have good brakes. Here's a picture of what I used to adjust it. Did 2 or 3 test drives/adjustments before I got it where I liked it without dragging. Also a picture of the rod on a dual diaphragm, not positive what the Renix one will look like but it should be similar.
  14. I had the same issue with my truck after swapping to a dual diaphragm booster and master. Turns out the rod in the booster was too long and I had to adjust it. If you haven't touched the booster and master this likely isn't the same problem but the symptoms being the same makes me think there is either a problem in your master/booster or the lines right at your master.
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