Warthog

Not sure but they are the later ones like after 97? The flat lookin ones everyone seems to use when they do that front clip interior swap? Cloth in the center and vinyl or leather whatever around the edges? I can shoot a pic if needed. I was thinking instead of the grid wire I’d just use hog or chicken wire wired to the square rope frame thing. Call it a day. I think the bounce comes from the actual frame to grid springs. Those wires on the grid look like a 9ga guitar string. Just lookin at em you would think your @$$ would fall thru or get slice like cheese! If you want some pics I’ll shoot em in a few. Thanks for the reply brother!

Ok so I have some later model buckets that I turned into fold forward with some mechanisms out of some too far gone two door buckets. My question is the spring grid. Can we chunk it and just cut some hog wire the same size and use that? Way way cheaper than buyin the grids and even cheaper than using zig zag springs which nobody seems to have done, or they are not saying how to do it. From what I gather by looking at it is all the bounce? Comes from the attached springs and not the grid itself. Be happy to try it and post just curious if anyone else has thought or tried or can shoot holes in this idea. Many thanx in advance

Appreciate the knowledge drop! New to jeeps, old to muscle cars and old trucks. Peace

Good to know! I’ll look into them. Motor the same?

Why? Sorry but what’s the difference in em? Got an 87 xj and an 86 mj I'm building so any upgrades I can do while I’m there, I'm down. Thanks in advance.

Get some paneling and cut you a template, cover in carpet or vinyl etc, I use tread bright aluminum on everything and paint to match. You can glue or Velcro or mate a metal strip to the inner frame via counter sunk screws and screw the new back to that. A little door trim around the edges to clean up the looks. You can get that stuff in rolls on Amazon cheap. If you can’t find the right color get as light as possible and get some duplicolor vinyl spray and paint to match. Awesome idea by tye way!! Bench in a cherokee? I would in a second! But I can’t even find a decent bench for my Comanche let alone another for m cherokee! If I still had the ebrake you could have it. Went buckets for lack of choice. I’ll look around, don’t remember chunkin it but don’t remember keepin it either.

What size steering wheel you guys using? The factory is a 15”. I’m curious if anyone has gone to the 14” and if it felt different? Not so much in response etc but the basic feel? I’ve felt a 13” and absolutely not for me. Is there really that much of a difference in the feel between the two? I’ve read the one has better response one has better leverage etc, but I’m talkin about holding it driving. Do you notice a smaller feel? Thanks, just rebuilt my steering column on one build and ready to put on a wheel. Not a lot of selection in the 15” wheel department but gobs in the 14” range. Peace

Second the pb blaster and soaking! That crayon wax thing actually works on some things. Heat it up and let the crayon melt into it. As it cools it sucks the crayon wax into the threads. Old timers used to use that trick all the time. I’ve always had good luck with pb blaster tho.

Need a set!!!

Yes!!! This you? Please say it is!

Posted this on the Cherokee site as well. There was a guy on one of these sites selling hvac box replacement foam kits. Sent me one to test fit and love it but need another for my other build. Got both an xj and a mj. Any help would absolutely rock! Thanx!

Can you give me part numbers? Got an 87xj with original box and a 90 box going in an 86 mj. Updating the heater core and evaporator. Says there’s a difference in the 87-91, then 92-95? Gonna install sbc in both so I’m aware of needing custom hoses. I just want to get the better of the two set ups and not sure which or if I can even go with a later model evaporator.first jeep builds and definitely first ac replacement. Gonna cap em til I’m ready to hook up. Hope that makes sense and you can give me some guidance. Many many thanx in advance!

here are some pics of what I did. Cut me a plate to mount to the seat frame. The old rocker slide were taken off the adjuster slide and I used that mechanism. Getting those rockers off is a pia cause one bolt is under the adjuster lever. I removed the front and rear bolt holding the rocker track on and spun the rocker slide basically unscrewing it. Then a finder and cut the bolt stem to get it out. The old rocker slide and the inside seat bolt line up almost perfect giving me the clearance side to side. That’s an old newer style frame I had laying about I’m using for test fitting etc. I also had to fold or bend the front lip up on the old style seat mount so it would meet the new seat since it’s flat and not concaved? Also ditch the 1/2” tubing for clearance as I didn’t need it. Probably gonna have to use something in the back to take out some seat incline. Not sure yet. I pretty much lay out when I drive so it may work great. Rain comin so done for now. If any of this is confusing I’ll be happy to clarify. But the basics are take the rocker mechanism off your old seat mount. Cut you a plate for the seat bottom. Match it to the holes in your seat frame and mate your old style sliders to the front inside bolt and buckle everything in. That center bolt on the lever side rocker is a serious b*@ch til I figures out just spin the rocker off and cut the bolt shaft to get it out. If this helps one person then I’m happy. Peace!

I know this has been beat to death but I wanted to give my version. Rocker buckets set too high, newer buckets the sliders too wide. After reading and reading and reading, looking at these seats and looking and thinking here is my solution. I had an aluminum loading dock sheet my brother gave me. You can use whatever you can find that will hold the seat. Cut me a plate to mate to the newer seat cause it has forward flip. Removed the whole bracket and mated it to the seat frame. Then I’m gonna run some 1/2” square tubing to get the slide lever clearance which will run front to back. Bolt the old style rails to the tubing to the seat plate. Then mount to some krustyballer seat brackets. Once you have everything lined up you can play with the height by adding washers or bigger tubing etc. you can also set up your preference of tilt doin the same method. More in the front less in the back. I will post pics tomorrow once I have this done but will try to get some as I go. My issue was it seemed everyone including myself was making this harder than it actually is. Your basically bolting the newer seats to the older slides. If anyone has done this and had issues feel free to drop advice. Peace and stay safe