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lcoutback

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  • Location
    Bend, Oregon
  • Interests
    WAY too many to list. Diggin' the MJ and it's simplicity. Hoping that the summer of '19 is when I finally get back out on the high desert and do some exploring!

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Can Spell Comanche

Can Spell Comanche (2/10)

  1. While not a 'miracle cure', I've found any carnuba car wax does a decent job hiding minor swirl marks and scratches. Work a liberal amount onto your disassembled lense using a conservative amount of pressure (just to be politically correct) and repeat the process. Make sure you allow the wax to fully dry so it will harden, otherwise it all wipes out of the imperfections. I had done this on a motorcycle faring that was impossible to see through when riding into the sun and now do it to all my clear dash pieces as well.
  2. Project rust bucket has hit a snag. My $400 '89 Comanche has yielded a good running 4.0 Renix with 137k miles and a clutch that appears good. Just four rust spots in the floor that will be an easy fix, other rust is cosmetic. I was going to take it for a spin to see if the BA10 is a survivor, and my steering gave up as I pulled onto the road. Luckily I have a large yard that I could back into with the gentle sweep to the right I seem to be stuck with at the moment. The steering wheel turns about half a turn, power steering pump is quiet and full of clean fluid, and I can't find any mechanical obstruction with the front end. Thoughts?
  3. So far the worst rust is around d the rear window. Amazingly, only a few small holes in the drivers side floor! Not sure where I'll go with this. Dropping the gas tank and fluids this weekend, then a compression. Test and see if it fires. Haven't decided if this is a flip or a keeper....
  4. Found this on the Oregon Coast for $400 with title. '89 4.0/5 speed/4x4. Haven't dug too deep into it, but at appears intact and has what I think are all the factory skid plates.
  5. Year / Model: 1989 Pioneer Original stats: 4.0 / AW4 / 2x4 / D35 / SWB Build Date: 9/88 Current Location: Forest Grove, Oregon Status: Just a weekend cruiser, desert explorer. Notes: I rescued Papa Smurf from central Oregon. The PO thought it was about to blow up because it leaked oil and overheated. Funny how a new oil pressure sending unit and antifreeze fixed those little issues! Since I've had it I've converted it to 4x4. Still 4.0 with about 250K miles, AW4 column shift with a fresh built stock NP231 with a SYE and a 8.8" rear differential. Geared with 4:10's running 33" tires to keep the speedometer happy. Nothing too special, but I've swapped in a full instrument cluster, Dynamat the floor, door skins, roof and behind the seat. All the interior lights work, including the lights I snagged from my wrecked XJ that light up the floor board. No Rust, very straight with a fully functioning tailgate latch! Just a clean and solid example of simple, like me... Current owner: Bob Pardee, AKA LCOutback
  6. Krusty, I have a pretty good set of grey covers without the bolsters that I'm swapping so I can have bolsters. PM me if you would like pictures and details?
  7. I took a different route on my first rig, which was a '70 Datsun 520 pickup. The rubber gaskets was still pliable with no rips or breaks, so I wiped them down with acetone, paying extra attention to the nooks and crannies that the glass didn't contact. Then I lightly greased both the glass and the metal frame that the glass was set into, being careful not to get any grease on my freshly cleaned rubber gasket. Using black silicone (don't remember the brand, but it was for 'weather stripping repair') I carefully coated the entire perimeter of the rubber gasket where the window/window frame would make contact with about 1/8" bead, starting with those 'nooks and crannies' mentioned above. I let the silicone set about 20 minutes, then gently closed the window WITHOUT latching it and left everything alone until the silicone was fully cured. (actually, I think I forgot about it for a couple days because I had a new girlfriend. LOL) Once the silicone had cured, I opened the window and wiped off the grease film that prevented the window/window frame and silicone from bonding, then went on my merry way. The result for me was a 'thicker' sealing surface that was somewhat formed to the window/window frame that sucked up tight when I latched the window. I drove the wheels off that little pickup for years, and never again had either a water leak or whistle from those windows. And yes, I used both windows often so that my '580' air conditioning would work, since I lived in Phoenix Arizona at the time...
  8. After several months, I finally found a grey micro console for my column shift AW-4, '89 Pioneer. It started life as a 2 wheel drive, and now has a fresh D30 up front and 8.8" SOA in the rear. The transfer case shifter is from the '89 XJ transmission/transfer case donor, which had a full console/floor shift xmission. The two micro console screw holes don't align with the two mounting points on the shifter. Is there a different shifter required, or am I missing a bracket?
  9. Well stated SteveW155. Thank you to ALL the admins who have kept this site what it is. There is much knowledge and opinion on this site, and I personally appreciate how both are managed. Part of what attracted me to this group is the depth of knowledge, but what keeps me here are those three rules on page one. (A.K.A. - 'The By-Laws') Let's just continue to share ideas and successes about our old sheetmetal, and leave the drama to the pundits?
  10. First off, 'Welcome'! There are no 'get lost kid' thoughts here unless someone becomes belligerent or is just rude. This is a pretty respectful and helpful community! If you have the motivation and desire to turn your own wrenches, the MJ can be a blast. Whether it's a 31 year old car, pickup, house or girl friend, it's gonna need a little work. Previous owners never care for your stuff the way you do, so don't afraid go all in. All the comments above are important. Rust, leaky stuff, how well the transmission shifts and how the truck rolls down the road all tell a story. It might be worth spending a few bucks to have a mechanic (or one of your trusted friends) do a compression and give it a once-over for a second opinion?
  11. Nice work DewManche! Did you use the brackets from your bench seat or fab completely new mounts?
  12. lcoutback

    "Cochise"

    This is a SUPER clean look!
  13. It was my impression is that even though I have an adjustable track bar, a drop arm would reduce the angle of the draglink and reduce stress on the gearbox. This is purely conjecture on my part, without having actually measured these angles. My MJ is just going to be a daily driver/lite trail rig, so I don't need to do any crazy upgrades. I figure if I can find bolt-on items that are factory and a bit more beefy they would be more subtle than expensive aftermarket parts.
  14. Thanks guys! That makes more sense now. I mistakenly thought I could use the steering components. I think I'll go back to sleep now! LOL Have a super-fantastic weekend!
  15. Eagle - Thank you for the details from your experience. That's helpful! Smokey & Mean - you're saying you don't think the brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve to accommodate the upgraded disc brakes I already have as well as the beefier tie rod, drag link and the 1" drop that comes with the WJ pitman arm is worth the $100?
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