Jump to content

lcoutback

Members
  • Content Count

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About lcoutback

  • Rank
    Can Spell Comanche

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bend, Oregon
  • Interests
    WAY too many to list. Diggin' the MJ and it's simplicity. Hoping that the summer of '19 is when I finally get back out on the high desert and do some exploring!

Recent Profile Visitors

468 profile views
  1. Krusty, I have a pretty good set of grey covers without the bolsters that I'm swapping so I can have bolsters. PM me if you would like pictures and details?
  2. I took a different route on my first rig, which was a '70 Datsun 520 pickup. The rubber gaskets was still pliable with no rips or breaks, so I wiped them down with acetone, paying extra attention to the nooks and crannies that the glass didn't contact. Then I lightly greased both the glass and the metal frame that the glass was set into, being careful not to get any grease on my freshly cleaned rubber gasket. Using black silicone (don't remember the brand, but it was for 'weather stripping repair') I carefully coated the entire perimeter of the rubber gasket where the window/window frame would make contact with about 1/8" bead, starting with those 'nooks and crannies' mentioned above. I let the silicone set about 20 minutes, then gently closed the window WITHOUT latching it and left everything alone until the silicone was fully cured. (actually, I think I forgot about it for a couple days because I had a new girlfriend. LOL) Once the silicone had cured, I opened the window and wiped off the grease film that prevented the window/window frame and silicone from bonding, then went on my merry way. The result for me was a 'thicker' sealing surface that was somewhat formed to the window/window frame that sucked up tight when I latched the window. I drove the wheels off that little pickup for years, and never again had either a water leak or whistle from those windows. And yes, I used both windows often so that my '580' air conditioning would work, since I lived in Phoenix Arizona at the time...
  3. After several months, I finally found a grey micro console for my column shift AW-4, '89 Pioneer. It started life as a 2 wheel drive, and now has a fresh D30 up front and 8.8" SOA in the rear. The transfer case shifter is from the '89 XJ transmission/transfer case donor, which had a full console/floor shift xmission. The two micro console screw holes don't align with the two mounting points on the shifter. Is there a different shifter required, or am I missing a bracket?
  4. lcoutback

    Censorship

    Well stated SteveW155. Thank you to ALL the admins who have kept this site what it is. There is much knowledge and opinion on this site, and I personally appreciate how both are managed. Part of what attracted me to this group is the depth of knowledge, but what keeps me here are those three rules on page one. (A.K.A. - 'The By-Laws') Let's just continue to share ideas and successes about our old sheetmetal, and leave the drama to the pundits?
  5. First off, 'Welcome'! There are no 'get lost kid' thoughts here unless someone becomes belligerent or is just rude. This is a pretty respectful and helpful community! If you have the motivation and desire to turn your own wrenches, the MJ can be a blast. Whether it's a 31 year old car, pickup, house or girl friend, it's gonna need a little work. Previous owners never care for your stuff the way you do, so don't afraid go all in. All the comments above are important. Rust, leaky stuff, how well the transmission shifts and how the truck rolls down the road all tell a story. It might be worth spending a few bucks to have a mechanic (or one of your trusted friends) do a compression and give it a once-over for a second opinion?
  6. Nice work DewManche! Did you use the brackets from your bench seat or fab completely new mounts?
  7. lcoutback

    "Cochise"

    This is a SUPER clean look!
  8. It was my impression is that even though I have an adjustable track bar, a drop arm would reduce the angle of the draglink and reduce stress on the gearbox. This is purely conjecture on my part, without having actually measured these angles. My MJ is just going to be a daily driver/lite trail rig, so I don't need to do any crazy upgrades. I figure if I can find bolt-on items that are factory and a bit more beefy they would be more subtle than expensive aftermarket parts.
  9. Thanks guys! That makes more sense now. I mistakenly thought I could use the steering components. I think I'll go back to sleep now! LOL Have a super-fantastic weekend!
  10. Eagle - Thank you for the details from your experience. That's helpful! Smokey & Mean - you're saying you don't think the brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve to accommodate the upgraded disc brakes I already have as well as the beefier tie rod, drag link and the 1" drop that comes with the WJ pitman arm is worth the $100?
  11. What I understand would be an 'upgrade' from my stock Comanche is the front steering components and the brake booster/master/proportioning valve I mentioned above. (since I'm already disc brakes on all four corners) My 231, D30 and 8.8 are all freshly built with SYE, seals, bearings, gears, etc. so no desire for any of those parts for my use. Sounds like axles, transmission and transfer case aren't worth much, so maybe I just suck it up and pull these components for the $100 and leave the rest in his driveway?
  12. Hey all, I found a wrecked '99 Grand Cherokee (WJ) for $400, but I think I can get it for $300. I have the guy talked down to $100 for the brake booster/master/prop valve and tie rod/drag link/pitman arm if I pull everything where it sits. (in a muddy driveway) All this WJ is missing is the engine. The drivers side looks like something dragged the length, but the interior is clean and all the running gear is intact. (minus the 4.7 V8) After looking at Pete M's index for bolt on upgrades, I wonder if it's worth dragging the whole thing home for the bolt-on upgrades I can put on my '89 Comanche? I have a D30 up front and an 8.8 SOA in the rear with disc brakes. I'm thinking that since high temps are just above freezing this weekend, maybe I would be better to just drag the whole thing home so I can do the work inside? Think I can part out the drive train and interior and get my money back? Other than the steering parts and brake upgrade, what else should I be considering for my Comanche?
  13. Sign me up for a set, please... I'm guessing with enough direction on which is front and which is rear, I'll figure out the rest... LOL
  14. Nicely stated Pete M. As an amateur 'wheeler' I've been poking around the desert and woods in the Cherokee for about 15 years, and old Chevys all my life. (I've earned the grey in this beard of mine! LOL) I finally acquired a Comanche two years ago, and I'm just a rear driveline away from finally having it on the road. The journey from 2x4 to 4x4 has been one of my biggest undertakings alone, and finding Comanche Club has been invaluable. So many people with such great knowledge! In this modern way of sharing information we lose sight of shared experiences. That only comes from busted knuckles, the occasional 'Adult Beverage' in the shop, that friendly rivalry that only happens when your buddies have to tow or pull you out of a tough spot and the occasional rift between friends as they find new ways to do what others might think is a waste of time or resource. Where I live in Central Oregon we count distance in drive time, not miles. It's four hours to the pacific coast, Washington, Idaho or California. That means I'm four hours FROM all of you! I'm on five acres that would host a handful of enthusiasts who need a place to pitch a tent and sear some dead cow on their way to a new adventure. I don't have much, but together we pretty much have it all!
  15. Awesome and complete feedback. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...