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Everything posted by lcoutback

  1. So far the worst rust is around d the rear window. Amazingly, only a few small holes in the drivers side floor! Not sure where I'll go with this. Dropping the gas tank and fluids this weekend, then a compression. Test and see if it fires. Haven't decided if this is a flip or a keeper....
  2. lcoutback


    Found this on the Oregon Coast for $400 with title. '89 4.0/5 speed/4x4. Haven't dug too deep into it, but at appears intact and has what I think are all the factory skid plates.
  3. lcoutback


    Year / Model: 1989 Pioneer Original stats: 4.0 / AW4 / 2x4 / D35 / SWB Build Date: 9/88 Current Location: Forest Grove, Oregon Status: Just a weekend cruiser, desert explorer. Notes: I rescued Papa Smurf from central Oregon. The PO thought it was about to blow up because it leaked oil and overheated. Funny how a new oil pressure sending unit and antifreeze fixed those little issues! Since I've had it I've converted it to 4x4. Still 4.0 with about 250K miles, AW4 column shift with a fresh built stock NP231 with a SYE and a 8.8" rear differential. Geared with 4:10's running 33" tires to keep the speedometer happy. Nothing too special, but I've swapped in a full instrument cluster, Dynamat the floor, door skins, roof and behind the seat. All the interior lights work, including the lights I snagged from my wrecked XJ that light up the floor board. No Rust, very straight with a fully functioning tailgate latch! Just a clean and solid example of simple, like me... Current owner: Bob Pardee, AKA LCOutback
  4. Krusty, I have a pretty good set of grey covers without the bolsters that I'm swapping so I can have bolsters. PM me if you would like pictures and details?
  5. I took a different route on my first rig, which was a '70 Datsun 520 pickup. The rubber gaskets was still pliable with no rips or breaks, so I wiped them down with acetone, paying extra attention to the nooks and crannies that the glass didn't contact. Then I lightly greased both the glass and the metal frame that the glass was set into, being careful not to get any grease on my freshly cleaned rubber gasket. Using black silicone (don't remember the brand, but it was for 'weather stripping repair') I carefully coated the entire perimeter of the rubber gasket where the window/window frame would make contact with about 1/8" bead, starting with those 'nooks and crannies' mentioned above. I let the silicone set about 20 minutes, then gently closed the window WITHOUT latching it and left everything alone until the silicone was fully cured. (actually, I think I forgot about it for a couple days because I had a new girlfriend. LOL) Once the silicone had cured, I opened the window and wiped off the grease film that prevented the window/window frame and silicone from bonding, then went on my merry way. The result for me was a 'thicker' sealing surface that was somewhat formed to the window/window frame that sucked up tight when I latched the window. I drove the wheels off that little pickup for years, and never again had either a water leak or whistle from those windows. And yes, I used both windows often so that my '580' air conditioning would work, since I lived in Phoenix Arizona at the time...
  6. After several months, I finally found a grey micro console for my column shift AW-4, '89 Pioneer. It started life as a 2 wheel drive, and now has a fresh D30 up front and 8.8" SOA in the rear. The transfer case shifter is from the '89 XJ transmission/transfer case donor, which had a full console/floor shift xmission. The two micro console screw holes don't align with the two mounting points on the shifter. Is there a different shifter required, or am I missing a bracket?
  7. lcoutback


    Well stated SteveW155. Thank you to ALL the admins who have kept this site what it is. There is much knowledge and opinion on this site, and I personally appreciate how both are managed. Part of what attracted me to this group is the depth of knowledge, but what keeps me here are those three rules on page one. (A.K.A. - 'The By-Laws') Let's just continue to share ideas and successes about our old sheetmetal, and leave the drama to the pundits?
  8. First off, 'Welcome'! There are no 'get lost kid' thoughts here unless someone becomes belligerent or is just rude. This is a pretty respectful and helpful community! If you have the motivation and desire to turn your own wrenches, the MJ can be a blast. Whether it's a 31 year old car, pickup, house or girl friend, it's gonna need a little work. Previous owners never care for your stuff the way you do, so don't afraid go all in. All the comments above are important. Rust, leaky stuff, how well the transmission shifts and how the truck rolls down the road all tell a story. It might be worth spending a few bucks to have a mechanic (or one of your trusted friends) do a compression and give it a once-over for a second opinion?
  9. Nice work DewManche! Did you use the brackets from your bench seat or fab completely new mounts?
  10. lcoutback


    This is a SUPER clean look!
  11. It was my impression is that even though I have an adjustable track bar, a drop arm would reduce the angle of the draglink and reduce stress on the gearbox. This is purely conjecture on my part, without having actually measured these angles. My MJ is just going to be a daily driver/lite trail rig, so I don't need to do any crazy upgrades. I figure if I can find bolt-on items that are factory and a bit more beefy they would be more subtle than expensive aftermarket parts.
  12. Thanks guys! That makes more sense now. I mistakenly thought I could use the steering components. I think I'll go back to sleep now! LOL Have a super-fantastic weekend!
  13. Eagle - Thank you for the details from your experience. That's helpful! Smokey & Mean - you're saying you don't think the brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve to accommodate the upgraded disc brakes I already have as well as the beefier tie rod, drag link and the 1" drop that comes with the WJ pitman arm is worth the $100?
  14. What I understand would be an 'upgrade' from my stock Comanche is the front steering components and the brake booster/master/proportioning valve I mentioned above. (since I'm already disc brakes on all four corners) My 231, D30 and 8.8 are all freshly built with SYE, seals, bearings, gears, etc. so no desire for any of those parts for my use. Sounds like axles, transmission and transfer case aren't worth much, so maybe I just suck it up and pull these components for the $100 and leave the rest in his driveway?
  15. Hey all, I found a wrecked '99 Grand Cherokee (WJ) for $400, but I think I can get it for $300. I have the guy talked down to $100 for the brake booster/master/prop valve and tie rod/drag link/pitman arm if I pull everything where it sits. (in a muddy driveway) All this WJ is missing is the engine. The drivers side looks like something dragged the length, but the interior is clean and all the running gear is intact. (minus the 4.7 V8) After looking at Pete M's index for bolt on upgrades, I wonder if it's worth dragging the whole thing home for the bolt-on upgrades I can put on my '89 Comanche? I have a D30 up front and an 8.8 SOA in the rear with disc brakes. I'm thinking that since high temps are just above freezing this weekend, maybe I would be better to just drag the whole thing home so I can do the work inside? Think I can part out the drive train and interior and get my money back? Other than the steering parts and brake upgrade, what else should I be considering for my Comanche?
  16. Sign me up for a set, please... I'm guessing with enough direction on which is front and which is rear, I'll figure out the rest... LOL
  17. Nicely stated Pete M. As an amateur 'wheeler' I've been poking around the desert and woods in the Cherokee for about 15 years, and old Chevys all my life. (I've earned the grey in this beard of mine! LOL) I finally acquired a Comanche two years ago, and I'm just a rear driveline away from finally having it on the road. The journey from 2x4 to 4x4 has been one of my biggest undertakings alone, and finding Comanche Club has been invaluable. So many people with such great knowledge! In this modern way of sharing information we lose sight of shared experiences. That only comes from busted knuckles, the occasional 'Adult Beverage' in the shop, that friendly rivalry that only happens when your buddies have to tow or pull you out of a tough spot and the occasional rift between friends as they find new ways to do what others might think is a waste of time or resource. Where I live in Central Oregon we count distance in drive time, not miles. It's four hours to the pacific coast, Washington, Idaho or California. That means I'm four hours FROM all of you! I'm on five acres that would host a handful of enthusiasts who need a place to pitch a tent and sear some dead cow on their way to a new adventure. I don't have much, but together we pretty much have it all!
  18. Awesome and complete feedback. Thanks!
  19. Hey all, My step son snagged two clocks from a wrecking yard, but neither my '89 or his '91 seem to have matching plugs in our dash wiring. All I have is an '88 electrical manual, and a generic Hayes repair manual for schematics. Does anyone have a pin-out and color code to match these up?
  20. With all the old Chevy pick-ups I've owned, I used a light coating of bearing grease. It stays in place and holds up to heat. In those cases, I would disconnect the speedo cable from both ends, pull the cable out and shoot a copious amount of brake cleaner down the cable sheath to clean it out. (put the lower end of the cable into a bucket or something to catch the mess) Then I would dab bearing grease in the palm of my hand as if I was going to pack a bearing, and drag the cable through. Again, a LIGHT coating the length of the cable, then put everything back together. Of course, I always made a mess doing this but it works on old chevys. Are my redneck roots showing?
  21. @saveevryjp1998 - I'm sneaking into that part of my project that the interior gets my attention. I have a bench seat in excellent condition, but I am interested in more springs to 'double up' as suggested earlier in this thread. I'm willing to pay shipping and a donation into your jeep fund if you still have those lower springs?
  22. I have armor from the SmittyBilt bumper I had on my XJ that I never installed. I'll see if I can mock it up on my '89 and get you pictures / feedback?
  23. Nice. I need to find a longer axle to frame hose and 'T'. Sadly, there is no pick n pull here. (hard to believe, huh?) The E Brake cables were both cut when I picked up this 8.8, so I may have to cough up a chunk a of change to buy new cables. I've seen some posts about how these can interface with the MJ ebrake cable coming from the pedal, but don't remember where. Did you have to do anything special?
  24. I looked through all my Jeep stuff, but the banjo fitting for the Ford caliper is a bit different.
  25. Pete, you just showed me the err in my ways! I was going to route the soft line past the leaf springs, but your picture just opened my eyes. It is much more logical to route the hard line past the leaf springs.
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