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kryptronic

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About kryptronic

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    York, PA

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  1. Yes, sellers do this too. I've experienced it and have wondered whether people are just too lazy to mark items as sold. It does seem too hard for some people to give the common courtesy of a short message or call when they no longer need/want/care about whatever the thing might be. You know me. I don't care. My dad always told me he didn't care if I liked him, but I damn well better respect him. Maybe that's where this is coming from. I'm expecting common courtesy from my fellow human beings and don't feel I'm getting it.
  2. I've got a big gripe. Lately I've been listing parts and vehicles on various marketplaces like the Comanche Club classifieds and Facebook Marketplace. I've got a vehicle listed on FB, and over the past three weeks, I've had three people swear to me they're showing up the following day to purchase a vehicle, then they don't show up, and I never hear from them again. I can't tell you how many people have asked if the vehicle is available and when they get an affirmative reply from me, I never hear another word. Not even a "thanks, I was just wondering". I've got parts listed here on CC. Several times I've been asked for a shipping quote on an item and for pics. After spending the time to get weights, measurements, pics and a shipping quote along with replying to the requestor, I hear nothing back. Not even a thank you for my time or efforts. I'm tempted to list some members names here in some sort of "wall of shame", but I won't. It seems the younger the buyer is, the less they care about courtesy. Older buyers typically respond to messages quickly and show up when they say they are going to. Younger people just don't have the same manners (generally - there are exceptions like military personnel). It's really been annoying me lately. It take it as selfish. If I spend any time at all doing something for somebody (like issuing a quote, or replying to a message), I expect at least a "thank you, but I'll pass" in return. The cutoff for having decent manners seems to be 40 years old or so. Is ghosting sellers now the acceptable method for relaying disinterest? What feeds this behavior? Is it really the new norm cease communication to express disinterest? I'm feeling disrespected every time this happens, and I'm wondering what the heck is wrong with society that we let this kind of thing go without a fuss. I'm not sure what the purpose of this thread is other than to vent a little. Perhaps people could share similar experiences, or perhaps some younger members could explain this phenomenon, or maybe assure us that all is not going to hell in a hand basket. Maybe somebody in the habit of ghosting sellers will read this and learn their behavior is undesirable. Who knows. Thoughts welcome. Ugh.
  3. Probably. I've sold 80% of the stuff without pics, though. I'll add some when I have time.
  4. Bumping this post back to the first page. Items still available, just updated the list, a few prices dropped. I'm surprised nobody has jumped on the factory rear bumper yet.
  5. When I got the truck, the A/C system was not fully installed. I installed all missing components with new components, including putting in a new compressor years ago. Check the compressor for the oil level, and adjust as needed. I'm not sure if that's right - use the right oil. Besides that, I would charge it and look for leaks. Also, I have OE mirrors if you need them. Left is a manual remote, right is fixed. They need paint, otherwise they work great. PM me if interested. Concerning the MC upgrade, seem unnecessary to me. It's using a YJ proportioning valve, and the LSV was deleted, and it stops on a dime. If you want to go back to using the MJ proportioning valve, let me know - I just found it, but I don't have the LSV any more.
  6. This is correct for 4.0L manuals, and why I recommend 3.73 with 31s with thqt setup.
  7. An 89 listed with a 4.0L High Output engine and an XJ15 manual transmission. Either the owner has no idea what he has, or there has been an engine swap and a typo.
  8. You should be able to plug the 4.0L engine wiring harness into the existing body harness without issues. Jeep tried to make all that stuff as interchangeable as possible. For example, in the previous generation (YJ) during the 1991-1995 high output years, the only difference between the 4.0L and 2.5L engine harnesses were wires for two injectors (whuch could be spliced in), and a power steering sensor (used on the 2.5L only to increase idle when turning the wheel when stopped). So your chances of that 99 TJ harness just plugging in and working tight are really good.
  9. Coil is suspect due to age (~140k). Entire distributor was put on (new cap, rotor, cam position sensor) was installed within the last 100 miles. Plug wires are really nice and were installed within the last 1000 miles.
  10. I'm upset that the truck has done this to you. As such, it's has been on my mind as much as when I experienced it earlier this year. One bit of info that I didn't have before was from @Eagle, who can always be relied on for accurate info, that the CPS could experience a heat soaking issue and become inoperable for a while, then start working again when cooled off. Based on my experience with the issue, I had the truck fail on the road after moderate driving around my local area. During that drive, I was enjoying the truck, and between 2nd and 4th gears quite a bit. When driving a vehicle with a manual transmission, I don't use the brakes very often. Usually just to finish a stop. My driving style has me shifting gears up and down often, usually between 2800-3200 RPM. I had the issue on the road. Subsequently, I tried to replicate while parked, and couldn't. I had the vehicle under extreme heat conditions for several hours while parked to try to replicate the issue, and it never happened again. Knowing the CPS sits on top of the bellhousing close to the transmission, and knowing now that it can experience a heat sink issue, and also knowing that the failure only ever occurred while actually driving the vehicle, I'm thinking the transmission could be producing excess heat. Now that I've been thinking about it, I recall making a mental note to check the clutch fluid level. Over the course of the time I had the truck, I recall the feel of the clutch pedal degrading very slightly over time. Maybe. Or maybe I was becoming more sensitive to it. Regardless, with that in my mind, and knowing I never changed the transmission fluid, I've got the theory the transmission is running hot and causing the CPS to fail due to heat soak. If this is the case, then replacing the CPS will not fix the issue - the CPS is not bad, the transmission is hot. So, based on that theory, I'd recommend you drive the truck, and get on the transmission. Try to replicate the issue on the road. If and when it fails, check the transmission to see if you think it's excessively hot. You'll just need to wait for things to cool off to get home, but that should take under an hour. Then, change the transmission fluid. It's an AX-15, so use Redline MT-90. Then check the clutch master cylinder for fluid level, and fill with DOT3 or better brake fluid, as required. Then repeat the testing procedure. I think these are two items that you need to do anyway, so the testing procedure ahead of time is simply to give you a baseline as to whether or not the fluid checks/fills helped. As for the transmission, I recommend you drain and fill it with all new fluid. There's no telling what might be in there, and it's almost certainly not Redline MT-90. Probably motor oil, but it could be ATF or whatever the last shop/person who changed it had on hand. I recommend Redline MT-90 based on hours upon hours of research on the subject specific to the AX-15, and my own personal experience using it with other AX-15 equipped Jeeps I've owned. There is none better. That's my input at this time. I welcome thoughts on the above from other members. Good luck, @acfortier.
  11. Page 1 of this thread lists multiple possible culprits which have all been checked to some degree. I only saw it shut off once, and that was at operating temp. You saw it once, again at operating temp. On HO vehicles, until operating temp is reached (~210 degrees) the computer is off and the mode is known as open loop. The computer controls nothing (virtually) until you hit 210 degrees. From that point, the computer kicks on, the system goes into closed loop, and based on input from sensors, adjusts idle. This would point to an electronic/sensor issue, or bad fuel based on the data. We're making the assumption here the computer is receiving some kind of bad data from something and choosing to shut off for protection. A bad crankshaft position sensor (CPS) would cause a no start condition from the point of failure, and they don't come back to life. I've checked the CPS recently. Rule out the CPS. Also, only replace it as a last resort. It's probably the most difficult sensor to install. A bad camshaft position sensor (CMS) would cause rough idle, not a shutdown. Plus I replaced the distributor last year, which contains the CMS, and the CMS is new. Rule out the CMS. A bad throttle position sensor (TPS), idle air control valve (IAC), mass airflow pressure sensor (MAP), or bad engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) would cause rough idle, not a shutdown. All of them have been checked within the past year. Rule out those sensors. I've been over the fuel system and have replaced the pump, cleaned the lines and installed a new filter. When I ran into the shutoff/no start condition, there was plenty of fuel in the fuel rail - indicating everything is fine there. The only suggestion I could not rule out was an overheated ignition coil. Running the vehicle for hours on end during the hottest days this summer and even getting the aux fan to run did not result in any problems. So maybe it's the coil, maybe not. Maybe it's just the three year old gas in the tank. To answer your question, I don't think there's much wiring at all in the cab that would affect this. Maybe some ignition wiring.
  12. So glad to see you fixed the wipers - bad motor and dirty module. Great work there. I'm really enjoying the updates and seeing stuff get done I always wanted to do to her. A little epoxy should seal it back up nice instead of the rivets. Passenger window needs regulator help - a bunch of members have had luck cleaning them. If you go electric, talk to @Minuit as he's got a great recipe for the HO. Concerning your shut off last night, sorry to hear about that. I had a similar incident in June or July that I posted in tech about. You can find/read that thread for info. Same symptoms. Likely old/bad gas. Could be an old overheated coil, but I don't think so. I mentioned the gas issue to you when we met - that gas could be 3+ years old in the tank. I'd pump what remains in the tank (which shouldn't be much) then fill it up with new gas and see if you have another problem.
  13. So with the lock cylinder / key issue on hold, it looks like you're fighting the slow wipers. If I've followed correctly, you've replaced the wiper arm/stalk and the wiper motor. You've also added a few grounds, and have seen no changes. You have an HO vehicle now, and a bunch of the advise you might get on here is going to be from members with Renix trucks. HO is a different animal. While I could see adding grounds to the Renix system to combat issues elsewhere, doing so on an HO system, in my humble opinion, is pointless. Just make sure the grounds that are there all look good. You don't need to improve on the HO electrical system the way you do with a Renix system. The note about the flickering lights caught my attention. Here are some thoughts: When I first got the truck, wires in the main harness/loom attached to the steering column were loose. I traced a problem with the rear brake lights not functioning back to loose wires in the connector. There may be something loose there that's causing all your problems. I recall when driving at night with the lights on, when I used the turn signals the radio would dim as they clicked. I rarely drove at night or with the radio on, and the radio has LEDs in it, so I really didn't think about it much. Also, you know the truck leaks as evidenced by the water that collects on both the driver and passenger floorboards. There is no doubt that the vent windows are contributing, but don't rule out the possibility that the fuse box has water leaking around it or into it. If I were chasing this problem, I'd remove the additional grounds you just added, hook everything back up, verify the functionality of the wipers is unchanged (but operational with the new stalk and motor), and then start chasing loose wires/connections on the steering column and at the fuse box. Just turn the wipers on and start jiggling connections and wires. If they speed up, you're golden. Good luck.
  14. I don't think there's anything wrong with the turn signal switch (Standard Motor Products TW20T). I meant the multifunction switch (Dorman 49277). You selected the right one - the one without cruise control - it was deleted (properly) at some point before I bought it.
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