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About kryptronic

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    York, PA

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  1. WTB Bench Seat Brackets

    I have a set I can sell you for $80 shipped from York, PA to you. PM me if interested.
  2. Reactions...?

    Thank you for the report. I've noticed this too, and it's annoying. I've just adjusted the forum settings so that by default these types of notifications are not sent/presented.
  3. Emergency Brake Cable

    I'm in the middle of this myself. Same thing happened. It routes under the carpet and seat, so be prepared to remove those, then through the back of the cab in the middle.
  4. I did alot of research before buying my first welder. Dirty Comanche hits all the same points I'd mention. Except the welder choice. A decent Hobart, Lincoln or Miller 110V 135-140 amp Mig welder is all you need for your Jeep. You won't touch the power on a 220V model when doing anything on the MJ. Eastwood makes a very good Lincoln clone. Stay away from Harbor Freight and choose to use gas instead of flux wire unless you've got to weld outdoors in wind. Plan on spending $500 on the machine, $200 on gas and welding wire and another $200 on safety equipment including a fire extinguisher. Toss in more cash for clamps and brushes and a welding cart. A 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff wheels will get the rot out quickly. You don't need torches but they're nice to have. You've got to practice on other stuff first. Then start with your frame. Save the floorpans until later, they require thin wire and way more finesse.
  5. Desktop Backup and Restore

    "Cloud" is basically a generic term referencing the Internet. When we use a term like "Cloud Storage" we are talking about storing something in an Internet-accessible location. Any type of data, any location that's Internet-accessible. Think photos on an image hosting service, your personal documents on Google Drive, your desktop computer backup being sent to a service like Carbonite, your phone data and it's contacts being sent to Samsung/Apple, etc. It's not like you're sending your stuff into the atmosphere for anybody to grab. Concerning security, would be easier for an individual to steal your data from your personal computer, or from a service provider? The service provider would have your data backed up in multiple locations, in multiple formats protected multiple firewalls managed by teams of people who live and breath data protection. The security for your home network is probably managed by a box provided to you by your cable company, and hopefully has the right security options set. The cloud is secure, and any part of it that has a problem ends up on the six o'clock news. Concerning backing up your desktop computer, look into Carbonite. I have used them for years. I think there's a yearly subscription of $60 or $70. You install Carbonite software on your desktop, and when it first runs it does a full backup to their cloud servers. Then it intermittently sends just changes. Bandwidth consumption after the first huge backup is next to nothing as it only sends changes up. If you ever lose a file, you can grab it. If you change a file and want a copy of it before the change, you can grab it. If your computer blows up and you need to load all your files on a new one, you can do that. Or, you can restore a corrupted drive. Whatever. You turn it on and forget about it until you need it, if you ever need it.
  6. Desktop Backup and Restore

    I believe what Windows is doing is creating a ghost image of your hard drive and saving that to the external drive. Or it's creating a proprietary image it can use in a restore process. Either way, it will be a point-in-time backup file which contains everything on the source source drive as of the backup time. Jeep Driver is point on, though. Consider the cloud as a viable option. Nothing he said was wrong or off base at all. Devices today are quite disposable, and the need for data sharing between them is increasing. On the cloud your data is backed up by mission critical redundant systems run by experts. Backing up to redundant drives is what we had to do a decade or more ago because a cloud wasn't available.
  7. NP231 AA SYE Install

    Thanks, fellas. Feeling better about it. The SYE was only $180, so the $350 install price is a bit salty in my opinion, and I still have to buy a new driveshaft. May just give it a go and do a write up for it.
  8. Hello everybody. I am working on a 95 YJ right now, which I lifted three inches, and need to install a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) to get the proper driveshaft angle back. I'm posting here in MJ tech, as this is applicable to MJs which get the same treatment. I got the SYE from Advance Adapters and have been looking at the install instructions. They're pretty much terrible for anyone who hasn't done this before, like me. I have all the tools I need (I think), and right now the drivetrain is sitting on the frame with the tub off, so it should be an easy job without much trouble. The thing is, I don't want to screw it up. A local Jeep shop will do the install if I bring the transfer case into them for $350. So, looking for advice from members who have done the install. Should I shell out the cash to have pros do it, or is it all simpler than it looks? Does anybody have a link to a definitive how-to that they used? Thanks.
  9. HO speedometer question

    I doubt you're going to have an easy time with it. The HO cluster plugs directly into the dash wiring harness, which routes to the computer, and has wiring going back to the NP231. Your NP231 has provisions for a cable right now, that would need to be converted to an HO/electric unit. I am pretty sure the speedo gears are the same cable vs. electric in the NP231, but you'll be missing the wiring back to it (you have a cable running there now). I couldn't tell you offhand if the wiring runs right to the harness or through the computer first. Just my thoughts, could be very wrong.
  10. In June 2017, I deleted the rear load sensing valve from my 1991 Comanche, and have documented the process here. Definitions The rear load sensing valve system is comprised of (1) an MJ-specific distribution block at the master cylinder which provides full pressure to the rear brakes; (2) an inline proportioning valve for the rear brakes (load sensing valve) located above the rear axle which is actuated by (3) a bar connected to the rear axle; (4) two hard lines running from the distribution block to the load sensing valve; (5) one hard line running from the load sensing valve to the rear brake drop line. The purpose of the rear load sensing valve is to adjust braking pressure applied to the rear brakes under different conditions. The rear load sensing valve is attached to the vehicle frame above the rear axle, to the driver's side. A bar connects a lever on the valve with the rear axle using a bracket on the differential cover. When the rear axle moves away from the frame (sudden stop, where the front end of the vehicle dips), as the height of the rear of the truck increases, the bar pulls the lever on the valve in a downward direction, resulting in the load sensing valve reducing pressure for the rear brakes. When the rear axle moves closer to the frame (load in the truck bed), as the height of the rear of the truck decreases, the bar pushes the lever on the valve in an upward direction, resulting in the load sensing valve increasing pressure for the rear brakes. Other Recipes, Why a YJ Prop Valve? Some recipes for load sensing valve deletion call for retaining the MJ-specific distribution block and plugging the bottom-front emergency bypass port. This method results in 100% braking pressure being pushed to the rear brakes at all times, and can cause premature lockup of the rear wheels, if too much pressure is applied by the driver to the brake pedal. Retaining the distribution block is generally acceptable for the older drivers who grew up without proportioned braking systems, and know how to apply brakes without proportioning. This recipe replaces the distribution block with a proportioning valve from a 1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler (YJ). The YJ proportioning valve limits braking pressure sent to the rear by 20%, thereby sending 80% pressure to the rear brakes. This proportioning valve is widely accepted to be nearly identical in function to those found in XJ and ZJ vehicles. It has been proven to work efficiently/correctly in vehicles which have rear drum brakes, as well those that have been converted to rear disc brakes. Disclaimer The rear load sensing valve is part of the vehicle's braking system. Modify at your own risk, this documentation is provided for informational purposes only. The Recipe In my case, I decided to delete the valve because it wasn't operational. The bracket the valve mounts to was severely bent, the bar connecting it to the axle was missing, and I had no idea if it actually worked or not. Here's a pic of what I started with: And the MJ-specific distribution block, in stock format is pictured below. Note that the line entering the front port on the distribution block is the main line running to the load sensing valve, and the line entering the bottom-front port on the distribution block is an emergency bypass line which is not proportioned. That line sends full braking pressure to the rear in the event the front braking system fails. Here's a pic of our donor proportioning valve, from a 1995 Wrangler, still attached to the master cylinder it was pulled with. And here's a pic of the MJ-specific distribution block on the left, and the YJ proportioning valve on the right. Don't get them confused, they're very similar looking. The YJ valve has the front port plugged. The first step in replacing the load sensing valve is to bleed all brake fluid from your braking system. There should be no fluid in the system prior to disconnecting anything. Next, remove the MJ-specific distribution block from under the master cylinder. Due to flex in the hard lines attached to it, and how tight the connections can be, I recommend using tools which will provide you the leverage you need, like large vice-grips and a proper wrench. Remove all six of the hard line connections running to the distribution block and remove it. Next, cut the hard brake line that was plugged into the front port of the distribution block (the main hard line) into pieces to remove it. The entire line will be discarded. Start at the front of the truck and work your way towards the rear, cutting a foot or two of the line at a time. You'll want to cut the line in this fashion as routing under the truck and past the gas tank is impossible to follow. You are cutting that line completely out, all the way back to where it plugs into the rear load sensing valve. Once the main hard line is removed, take a look at your rear load sensing valve. There will be two uncut hard lines still plugged into it. One line runs from the front of the vehicle to the load sensing valve (the emergency bypass line), and one that runs back to the rear brake drop line. Disconnect both from the rear load sensing valve using a wrench and carefully bend out of the way slightly. Locate the attachment point for the load sensing valve's rod on the rear axle differential cover and detach it. At this point the rear load sensing valve can come out. Unbolt the bracket it's mounted to from the truck frame. The bolts will likely break rather than come out freely. Discard the entire load sensing valve assembly, or send it to a club member who wants a backup. I got a nice set of lug nuts in trade for mine. Now you have an option. You can either use a coupler to attach the two remaining hard lines where the load sensing valve was, or you can remove both lines and run a single hard line from the front of the truck to the rear brake drop line. My hard lines were in good shape, so I opted to couple them... Next, use a 3/16" brake line coupler, available at any auto parts store (NAPA part number G60693-0303), to connect the two hard lines that you disconnected from the load sensing valve. You are connecting the remaining line that runs from the front all the way to the rear brake drop line. Here is a pic from the front side of the frame crossmember showing the two lines connected with a coupler: And here is a pic from the rear side of the frame crossmember showing the connection to the rear brake drop line: Once you have the rear sorted, return to the front of the vehicle and install the YJ proportioning valve. All of port locations on the YJ proportioning valve match the MJ-specific distribution block's port locations, so connect the hard lines back up the way you disconnected them. You'll be missing the one hard line you removed earlier, obviously. Here's a pic of the YJ proportioning valve installed, with all hard lines connected: When finished, fill and bleed your entire braking system (front and rear), then perform several tests, starting at extremely slow speeds to test proper functioning. Final Thoughts I deleted the rear load sensing valve from my Comanche eight months ago as of this writing. I am happy to report that braking using this recipe is as you would expect, without any problems, issues or caveats. I have only experienced rear brake lockup when using full braking pressure, going downhill on wet surfaces with radial tires. Under the same conditions, the truck stops without locking up the rear brakes when using all terrain tires.
  11. Vehicle part question

    Thank you, I stand corrected. 91 was an HO year for the Wrangler. 92-95 have identical electrical setups. 91 still had some mechanical bits like the speedo. I've owned several 95s and when sourcing those parts, I only ever looked back to 92 due to several differences in 91.
  12. Vehicle part question

    Wranglers didn't get the HO package until 92, so add 91 as well. Around here (PA) 2.5L Wranglers and parts for them are plentiful.
  13. Jeep build sheet lookup

    Mine came with a stock rear bumper but it's not on my build sheet. The front bumper is, though:
  14. Need Factory roll bar frame brackets

    I sent a factory set to Krustyballer in the fall. He's working on replicating them currently.
  15. name that part 3

    Combustulator: Available as an option on Renix Jeeps to combat crankshaft sensor issues reported under warranty.