acfortier

I don't think it's "nice enough" to be on BaT, lol. It needs a paint job, badly, but I'm not sure I want to invest that $$ if I'm just going to turn it around and sell it anyways. I initially purchased it for $6000 a few years ago. I was thinking I'd be happy with $8000, and honestly not sure if it's worth much more than that, anyways. Also would include a large slew of extra parts I've accumulated over the years: * NOS brush guard * Inner fender liners, need to be installed * Extra set of door/window seals * dual diaphragm brake booster * solid rear window gasket * Extra maroon dash/door panels/interior bits * tow mirror set up w/ brackets * front skid plate (haven't reinstalled since I got it)

OK, short trip to Walmart yesterday, 40 mi round trip today, and no issues. I think it's resolved!

Replaced the ECU with an eBay unit today. Interestingly, my unit did not have a sticker on the top that has the part number, and the plug itself was orange rather than gray on the replacement. That is the original one in the vehicle. Doesn’t look too great, I think that is a cap next to the heat sink that looks like it’s rusted? Anyways, new ECU in and has been running for 5+ min and got up to temp, no issues so far. The MAINT REQD light is now illuminated which is going to bug me, lol.

Isn't 210/215 normal operating temp for these? Curious, did you confirm that the gauge is accurate by measuring temp another way?

Found this thread that identifies the same problem: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/check-engine-lamp-259881/ Unfortunately the OP didn't give an update and it's over 10 years old... lol Similar symptoms in this thread: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/no-check-engine-light-when-key-is-on.603033/ which also mentions a potential faulty ECM.

Just checked now. Only codes are 12 and 55, which make sense. However, I took another video of the CEL and it is definitely supposed to stay illuminated much longer. Also seems like the MAINT REQ light is supposed to go out at the same time? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E6N1foVjDRovtaQNUhsePgGBMVu39vnK/view?usp=sharing I assume the ECM controls the CEL directly, so now I'm thinking it's a faulty ECM again?

I don’t think it has enough time to get warm to be honest. It wasn’t idling for more than 5 minutes last time it happened. Can someone confirm if the Check Engine light should stay illuminated longer when they key is ON but the engine is not running?

I did, but that was prior when I was having the same issue due to a poor connection at the ignition coil awhile back. Since this issue popped up again, I ended up putting the original CPS back in since I knew it wasn’t the original issue, but the current problem still persisted.

Well, installed new battery, started a couple times and let it idle and didn't have any issues. Went outside this AM to do the same thing, and it died after a few minutes. Tried to start it again, crank-crank-crank-crank. Took another video because this seems really weird--I feel like the Check Engine light and others should start illuminated longer than they are when putting the key into ON? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xWpoduznIcf90QYQUEk4af7FvGZyhk9l/view?usp=drive_link

I almost preemptively tagged you in the post... alright, new battery coming today since I'm out of ideas.

I was waiting for you to mention the battery Alright, I'll bite and pick one up today.

No tilt column. I did try jiggling the key/ignition while it was running to see if I could get it to do something, but nothing was conclusive. Battery connections are brand new. Just upgraded to the Big 7 (although, I only did the Big "4"--negative to engine, negative to fender, positive to PDC, positive to starter)

OK, checked ignition switch, no burnt wires/terminals or anything. Happened a few more times as I was troubleshooting, but didn't seem to correlate to what I was doing (moving the connector up/down, moving the wires up/down). Couple times the engine would throttle down, then shoot back up higher, then come back to a normal idle.

OK, now this is a new symptom. I've been dealing with a crank, no-start issue outlined here: https://comancheclub.com/topic/72314-another-crank-no-start-issue and tried to tackle it again today. Started it up, no problem. Left it running to walk away into the basement for a second, and came back and it was off. BUT, I could hear the fuel pump cycling on and off rapidly, which was really odd. Took out the phone for a quick video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RCUkOpcXoGe4e-vn1CPgN7IVAXKmLuZJ/view?usp=sharing As you can see, it's acting as if I'm cycling the key from OFF-ON-OFF-ON etc. but the key has been in the ON position the entire time. I've never noticed this before, and definitely seems electrical, but I'm not really sure where to start? Is it the ignition switch causing this?

I'm thinking about selling my Comanche, but not really sure what it's worth. I've got a ton of extra parts that I'll include with it, including NOS brush guard, front skid plate, tow mirrors w/ door bracket, extra odds and ends. Located in MA, it's fairly rust free except some spots on the body. The only issue that is may (or may not?) have is the intermittent crank-no start that I don't feel confident has been fixed.