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Jeep Driver

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    Wild Wild E TN

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Obsessive Comanche Disorder

Obsessive Comanche Disorder (9/10)

  1. I go 75lbs on aluminum wheels. I give my threads just a dab of grease. Some wheels are listed at 110lbs........start galling the aluminum, especially on deep socketed aftermarket wheels and you are screwed.
  2. Trans looks like the NSG370 but IDK. Leave the 8.25 be, it's good.
  3. Just remember- If you do what you did, you'll get what you got. Rethink and come up with your own solution. I know what I'm going to do and I see what others are doing. Look around. Lastly, for the price of three you could have bought once. And no I'm not referring to Mishimoto. Quality ain't cheap, neither is quantity.
  4. Yes and no. Starter is going to be wired exactly as the 2.5 is, nothing changes there. All you need is an ignition wire to run to your control box or coil...........that exists already. Or you can use it to trigger a new relay controlled circuit. You have a red wire which connects to an existing fused link, that red wire runs to the firewall near the blower, it's used for the retractable hood mounted light which likely no longer exists or never did exist. It's an always hot red wire with a single prong connecter, easy enough to find. It's fused, you can use this wire to supply 12+ to your new ignition relay. Your gauges have nothing to do with the ecu. Your tach wire already exists, trace it to the existing coil. Oil and temp wires should be easy enough to locate, attach to new senders or reuse existing senders. ECU serves no purpose. There is nothing for you to piggyback. The only thing the ECU would do......and not in your case now.....is to turn on the fuel pump. You'll need to wire the neg wire at the fuel pump relay to ground and then run the red wire to the ignition circuit. Your existing 2.5 pump will work perfectly with your carb......regulated of course. Somewhere here is a wire schematic for the '88. Someone will point to it. You should have labeled your wires as you disconnected everything. See jeepair.com for your AC needs.
  5. Bear in mind the cost and time, time is money. Cleaning, cleaning materials. Intake and exhaust gasket. Head gasket. Valve cover gasket. Head bolts. Oil and filter change. Coolant. Repair any parts damaged in the process, vacuum tubes, sensors........etc...... Couple of extra quarts of oil to flush pan if contamination occurs. If oil contamination occurs you'll need a second oil change. Retorque head bolts after a couple of heat cycles. My point is that half-@$$ is expensive.
  6. Factory wheels came with 5.25" backspacing. That number is the number you need to be concerned with. A 235/85/16 tire has a diameter of 31.7" so yes, regardless, you are going to rub. Whether you stay with stock BS or move the wheel out. That is essentially a 32" tire. Even most 31x10.50s are sub 31" tall.
  7. Your '88 knuckles will be desirable to anyone doing a Wilwood brake conversion, don't discard those. You will now order brake parts for a '98 XJ. Keep it simple and do not try to explain anything to any of the parts counter idiots. Axle shafts will interchange, steering and TB will interchange, brakes will not. Again, when it comes to unit bearings, keep it simple, '98 XJ. And your '98 should come with the larger axle shaft U-joints, that is desirable. IIRC..........
  8. Here is an example of reading your head/deck/gasket. This is the head off my old 2.5. Notice the area between cylinders 2 and 3, the area is discolored. Notice the plug in cylinder 3, clean. Gasket was blown between 2 and 3, also coolant escaped into cylinder 3. Compression was lost on 2 and 3 as compressed gasses were passed from one to the other. This is also a reason I would never use a used head without having it resurfaced.....and no, I do not trust a straight edge. This head is surely warped. Also, without a resurface, the outside of the pushrod galley, the thin area, you will not get good compression on your head gasket and it will weep oil down the outside of the block.
  9. Take the head off and read the gasket, chances are it will tell you what you need to know. If you are getting exhaust gasses in the coolant there is a strong chance you are losing coolant. If you are loosing coolant..........pull all your plugs and read them, if coolant is getting into a cylinder the plug will be exceptionally clean. Read your plugs, that costs you nothing. Reading plugs, gaskets.......magnaflux..........there is overwhelming information at your fingertips. All kinds of vids. If you think you are a car guy or want to be a car guy...start here, this episode explains magnafluxing .
  10. No. You would not install a used head without having it serviced. Have your head inspected before you do anything.
  11. Jeep Driver

    The gun

    Since it's show and tell......... Because a man needs a handful. CZ P09
  12. No. Remove the head and take it to a competent local machine shop. Valve job and have it resurfaced if no cracks are found. Cost should be around $350......it's been a while and prices may have gone up but that will be close.
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