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Jeep Driver

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  1. You are assuming that is a Chrysler number. I had an 89 that had primarily AMC parts, stamped AMC. Also, some brackets and the like could have lasted well into 90......vendor stock. And how do you know that a part that came off a 92 had not been replaced by an AMC part from an earlier model or a NOS from AMC? That's likely an AMC number, not a Chrysler number.
  2. The inside of my bed will never be seen nor used to haul anything. Tonneau cover. I'll likely go with the Downey and then later find a hard cover that I can cut to fit and have covered with black vinyl....ie.......'vinyl hardtop'. I really don't care what it looks like but it has to be clean for the black Raptor to stick. This brush makes quick work of it. You'll need a variable speed grinder, my Milwaukee grinders are just too fast, this elcheapo works OK @ 2000rpm. My '86 fuel sender came a while ago, now I need to determine which pump and regulator I'll use, probably Aeromotive. I got my final block sanding and priming done this weekend. Other than one little area I need to address, my bodywork is done. Ready to be wet sanded and painted.
  3. When I look for any product, I look to buy the quality that I can afford. I posted earlier here that I bought a cheap battery just to get by while the truck sat, that I did not want to get good battery until the truck was ready for the road. Well, the temporary battery would not hold a charge for a week. I definitely wanted a dual purpose AGM. I read countless reviews, searched many other truck/car sites, compared prices, store brands vs name brands.....etc.....Optima is out of the question. I chose NorthStar. Online the NorthStar came with a 4 year warranty, for less money through Batteriesplus it came with a 5 year free replacement warranty. Plus I have a brick and mortar store that I can actually take it to. The difference in starting power is amazing. I made certain it was topped-off before I installed it.
  4. 16mm is .625 is 5/8" You'll need to get creative. Most mechanics/people are not creative. You'll need a hydraulic press. I'm not sure if 16mm is the inside dimension of the sleeve.....you measure the one you have. Maybe you can find a suitable shock with 16mm sleeves at both ends? I don't know if a 16mm sleeve will slip over the mount bolt? You can try or just measure, the threaded end is not the diameter of the mount/bolt, you'll need to remove a shock and measure the shoulder. Here is a spec list- https://www.my4by.com/bilstein-shock-specs Or press out all four bushings and replace with- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/exp-600001?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuK3vBRBOEiwA1IMhuox7KLCrqXMQh9_9Enkd-nO2vrQmometb7kCX-k1_L67GqOjAHkS3hoC7IIQAvD_BwE Or press out and reuse your existing bushing from your old shocks. Dawn dish soap......lube.
  5. My guess is- Carbon build up on valve stem caused it to stick open. Push rod came up out of it's seat in the tappet and rode the tappet lip/barrel up causing it to strike the rocker and causing the bend....something is going to give and fortunately it was the rod. There is no valve adjustment on these engines. You will not be able to test the valve stem run out without the correct tools......IOWs unless it's clearly bent you will not know if it's bent by just looking at it. Seals and springs are cheap.........can't imagine you putting this head back together without replacing. You need to have the deck checked.....if planed, the valve stem length needs to be reduced accordingly. A head shop will do this as a matter of routine. Valve guides need to be inspected and refurbished if necessary. Your valves, chambers, deck have not been cleaned. That head is not ready to be reinstalled. I've built several engines and replaced/serviced several heads. Heads always go the machine shop. I'm not an expert, I'm not a machinist, I trust those who are.
  6. The head needs to go to a machine shop. New seals, new springs. You need a valve job. Or you'll be chasing another bent push rod.
  7. It doesn't matter which wire goes where.
  8. You are just adding the plug to your wires. There is no other option.
  9. https://www.injector.com/cart/pc/Air-Charge-Temperature-Sensor-Part-No-1814-12p65.htm https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-Engine-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-FS-36400-/362455196353
  10. I've never done the 'black friday' thing. Usually what is offered is crap I'm not interested in anyway. Also, companies advertise - up to 50% off- and the only thing offered on their site is some obscure bolt or bracket or gimmick that no one wants. I've been looking at or for a Northstar group 78 AGM battery. Batteriesplus X2Power is a Northstar. Today while searching around an ad popped up for 20% off at Batterieplus. I got the battery for $270, has to be ordered and will be in next Friday. Code is CDP13175 I got this cheaper....even with paying tax........than anywhere on the web.
  11. Wow! that's pretty clean. Good for you.
  12. Here is an interesting vid, watch it. He states, metals in raw form are produced in "North America" meaning they buy the spring steel in bulk and likely from Mexico but the springs are actually formed and produced in US. This is how most most American manufacturing is handled now..........ie..........'global materials'. I will call Eaton next week just to see if they can produce a custom pair of coils for me.
  13. You are the first to report this.......made in Mexico. Also, your pic.....you are also the first to report poor quality. Here, from original thread, you can clearly see USA stamped on the spring. Also- And- I specifically recall my conversation with Joe, he stated that these were indeed made in the US. Lastly, from their website- Why General Spring? Your choice of a leaf spring directly affects the ride quality and hauling capacity of your vehicle — as with any suspension component, it’s important to choose a reliable replacement part from a manufacturer you trust. Here’s why General Spring is your best choice in front and rear leaf springs for any model of vehicle: We work exclusively with manufacturers that are full members of the Spring Research Institute (SRI), a leading industry body that upholds exceptionally high standards for quality control. This means you can shop with confidence knowing you’re getting a product that’s made in North America and built to deliver the best performance possible. We store and ship items from locations all across the country, and visually inspect all parts before they are sent out to you, confirming that your order is correct and that the leaf spring itself is free from obvious defects or damage. As a result, we are able to offer an exclusive one-year warranty on all replacement leaf springs. Our products meet or exceed OEM specifications. We also have extensive in-house manufacturing and modification capabilities, so we can customize any stock leaf spring to your specifications. For example, on some truck leaf springs, we replace the stock clips with metal riveted clips that provide additional strength and a smoother ride. We’ve been around since 1965 and will continue to be there well into the future. Unlike big box stores, overseas suppliers or drop shippers, we are able to quickly respond to customer inquiries, special requests or warranty concerns. When it comes to automotive leaf springs, General Spring is a name you can trust. I know I'm a real PITA........but.......... Either these are made in the US or I was lied to and the US stamping is false or someone did not get what they thought they got. I'm a stickler for details.........it matters.
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