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Jeep Driver

Jeep Driver
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Everything posted by Jeep Driver

  1. No, it's not there. It's next to the radiator.
  2. Remote is to the right of the radiator.
  3. The 2.5 came with a remote reservoir, not a pump mounted reservoir. You need to use the original style pump/remote reservoir or ditch the airbox, can't have both.
  4. He's in Amarillo TX. Yeah, what I'm doing is not relevant to your question. Interview shops, make sure they know what they are doing, most don't.
  5. That is cheap. Further, I would never invest in an AW4 but if I had to there is no other shop that would touch it but this one- And people from all over the country go to him.
  6. Taken from elsewhere- The bottom left is a 95, the bottom right is a 91, and the top gold is a Grand Wagonner, which has the outside diameter of the 91, and inside diameter of the 95, so that is the part you will need in the event of a swap, if the tranny shaft diameters differ from one another.
  7. I'm going to say something here which NEEDS to be said, regardless of how anyone 'feels' about it. Everyone thinks that being a mechanic is easy, it is NOT. One must be able to look at the bigger picture. What tools do I have? what do I need? What parts do I have? are they the correct parts? What do I want to accomplish? Am I capable and able to accomplish the task at hand? You show two different upper ball joints in the pic above. Taper and length of shaft/taper are entirely different. It appears to me that you cut the knuckle to fit one and now it does not fit the other? Which BJs did you order? You guys need to STOP ordering from Amazon, period. You need to know what you are buying and from whom you are buying it. Cotter pin, the cotter pin does not keep the nut from backing off, it keeps the nut from coming off. Yes, the cotter pin is still doing it's job. You can cut the extra length and drill a new hole if need be. But it appears the nut has bottomed out of the threads....? You can use an appropriate thick washer if need be. It's just a nut like any other nut. Knuckle, I told another member here just a week ago not to discard his knuckles, to save them. This is precisely why I told him to save them. You need to contact him to see it you can buy them from him if you think you need to start over. And yes, maybe you need to start over. I posted the BJs I purchased, buy them. RC also sells a similar set.....actually I think they are the same set rebranded, theirs are $129 for all four. We all learned our lessons one way or the other.
  8. There's actually a few of them, do a search for yourself. I can't imagine it's anything special.
  9. Are you afraid of taking too much material? Keep going until it fits.......don't know what else to say.........?
  10. English is not his native language. The hub of the wheel will not fit over the hub of the axle.
  11. Pretty sure you are correct. It's been a few years for me now, but as I remember is was pretty obvious. Maybe a pin to push?
  12. It's going to be the number one cause based on the work you did. What did you replace it with? Aftermarket sensors are junk out of the box.
  13. The later knuckles used unit bearings just like the 4X axles. You'll need the brakes too.
  14. I don't know the answer to that. I can tell you that my holes in the knuckles were not round. The 7 degree by 1" taper is supposed to be what current Jeep BJ taper is. When I put the reamer up to the new BJ it was a match. But not the hole in the knuckle. You can see here the reamer was taking material from the bottom of the taper but not the top.
  15. I'm going to suggest to you this, it's just my educated guess- At some point the taper changed. There was an early taper and a later taper, either the length or diameter changed. No one is making the early taper, the only replacement BJs have the later taper. This is why your hole is not true, it was damaged by a later taper BJ I went through several TBs that would not tighten up a the frame mount, no matter what I did, a month later I could here it popping. I went and got a later mount of a '98 and with a new TB the problem was solved.........IMO this was due to a matching taper. I've since gone to JKS TB and the problem is moot now. But I suspect this is the same with BJs. You are not the only one, more common than you might think. If you go the reamer route, it doesn't take much to ruin a knuckle..........slow and light turnings.
  16. You may want to double check. Pretty sure the 4.0 with AX15 came with 3.07 gears. Someone else could chime in on that but I'm pretty certain.
  17. Likely to have 3.07 gears not the 3.55 gears you have.
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