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rokinn

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About rokinn

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Male
  • Location
    Loveland, CO

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501 profile views
  1. I'm getting around to installing an auxiliary electric fan and have a couple of questions as well as a general run by on the plan as a confidence builder. I'll be using a fan out of a 91 XJ. The 97+ is better I know but this is what I have for now. I'm putting a 210 on/ 200 off switch in an HO thermostat housing. I'm running the power through an SPDT relay (the ones that come from the renix relay panel under the hood). I'll be using a 30 amp fuse between the battery and the relay and a 5 amp between the ignition and the relay. I'll be using a rectifier diode IN5408 between the relay and the fan. I may add a manual on switch from the cab but will start with just the temp switch for now. This truck was never wired for a fan. This is the plan I'm using. https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/coolingfandiagrams.pdf This is the switch with added pigtail from Rodney Dickman parts. http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=88 Questions: 1. What is the best way to get power from the ignition switch? Just run a wire in to the Ign slot in the fuse box or....? 2. What should the minimum gauge wire be from the battery to the relay? 3. The switch pigtail has 16 ga wire. Is that adequate? The plan says to use 8-10 ga for ground but the switch is the ground. ? Thanks for any input.
  2. I had the pressure reduced on my steering pump. How it was done I don't have a clue but... I took my steering box in to a local rebuilder and had it rebuilt as well as installing a ZJ worm gear. I had him check out the pump as well as it seemed to make a fair bit of noise and the whole steering just seemed amped up compared to anything I had driven before. Even allowing for the worn box. He said he reduced the pressure in it as it was significantly more than it needed to be functional. IIRC he said he reduced it from 17 to 9 psi but don't quote me. The road feel is much better and there is no hard steering at low speed.
  3. Maybe it was just a typo from "Trust Bank" and they already had all of the stationary printed up and rather than make new stationary they just went with it. Saved hundreds of dollars for the share holders that way.
  4. Personally I would sand it down to bare metal sooner than later. Rust can eat in pretty deep in tiny pits pretty quickly. It's best to get it all if you can. The rust converters don't seem to work all that well. A year is longer than you think when it comes to rust. Prime it, paint it in a matching Duplicolor. You can get the code for the color on the vin plate. You can even spray clear coat on it if you like. Cromax A-7480S is a high quality one. Be sure to wear a good respirator and eye protection. It's pretty toxic. If you do it in the garage give it plenty of time to clear before inspecting your work. Ask me how I know! The rust on the right front and rear of the bed are deeper than you think. Stitch in time and all that.
  5. If any of the above doesn't work I would (and did) pull the seat covers off and run them through the washing machine. If they are cloth they are probably pretty dirty anyway. You can then go to Pet Smart or such and buy Nature's Miracle. It kills bacteria and viruses as well as odors. I even sprayed in on the foam cushions after removing the covers. It doesn't leave any imbedded perfume odors like a lot of other cleaners do and works very well. If the headliner remains problematic you can always replace it. Mine didn't have one so I had no choice. Good luck.
  6. It's the Metric Ton package! Brought to you by Engineers R Us.
  7. rokinn

    how low is too low?

    It's because nobody knows where their a$$ is anymore. I'm surprised there aren't boxers hanging in the windows.
  8. I still have a tube of distributor shaft point lube in my tool box. Still have the tach/dwell meter and timing light also. Wife and I each had early 70's air cooled VW's. Valves needed adjusting every 3K. Points, condenser, timing adjust and oil change as well. Brake adjust. Seems like I lived under those two vehicles. Glad that era is past.
  9. rokinn

    Rear fog lights

    There appears to me to be an oxidized surface layer over the entire tail light. There are a variety of products that will clean that up. Did it to mine and it cleaned up pretty well. The tooth brush with the same product is a good idea also. I also used LED replacement bulbs and they are quite bright now. Not like rear fogs but plenty bright for my uses. These are no longer available but I'm sure you can find alternatives. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED35ALY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  10. Addendum: Thinking about what I did a bit more. I took down just the oxidized surface layer of the old clear coat. You just have to feather the interface between the remaining clear coat and where it's completely gone.
  11. Pete, I used Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional Ultra-Cut Compound with a buffing pad as well as some fine grit wet sand paper where the clear coat was still fairly thick. Completely buffed and sanded off the clear coat and buffed off most of the oxidized paint on both the hood and top of the cab. Also did some dent repair behind the wheel well as well and the bed rails. I used rattle can primer and paint with the proper paint code on some of the areas where I had to get down to metal to bondo some surface rust and dents. Paint matched perfectly. I then clear coated with Cromax A-7480S. It's supposed to be high quality non yellowing unlike some of the other cheaper brands. The hood ended up with a fair bit of orange peel so I used buffer I purchased from HF and a pad along with the Meguiar's to clean it up. Gotta be really careful because you can get down too thin in a hurry. There is a compound with less cutting action also depending on how well the job comes out with the clear coat or just buffing out some of the surface oxidation in the old clear coat. A little wax after it's cured and voila. It's not like a new paint job but infinitely better than it was before. Looks pretty good in fact. Good luck.
  12. Kind of a Mad Max model with all the creature comfort upgrades.
  13. rokinn

    Censorship

    Kyle is long gone now. At least if he's smart he is. It's too bad! I read the original, now deleted, posts on his request thread, albeit my memory is not verbatim. He was met with some screed of immediate suspicion and invective like the tentacled body snatchers that decry the "enemy of the people." While I don't consider myself the likely candidate for the interview since I'm a relative newby and this is my one and only ever Jeep pickup, or Jeep for that matter. However, I also don't appreciate someone else's effective usurpation of my choice by disparaging the person asking on the forum if I would like to talk to them. Apparently a lot of others don't care for it either. It's also Pete's prerogative to censor what ever in HE/double hockey sticks he feels like. It's his website.
  14. rokinn

    Censorship

    Personally I think we could use a little more self censoring on this site and a lot less opinionated world view. That said, the guy writes for a living and is looking for another story that might be of public interest. Here's what he writes about. https://www.bloombergquint.com/author/60981/kyle-stock#gs.1hpc1e What was that old saying? Paranoia to the people! No, that's not it. Lighten up indeed.
  15. Sorry, it's an 8 slot. Good luck!
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