rokinn

I installed an in good shape used 97+ seal on drivers side a few years ago and got tired of having to close the door 2 or 3 times to get it to latch, to include adjusting the striker several times. Bought this and have been completely satisfied since. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1Q1J5E?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Kingdom of Heaven - about 12th century crusades Blade Runner - Original Last of the Mohicans - Book is very good too Metropolis - 1927 Fritz Lang silent science fiction movie w/1984 production by Giorio Moroder & sound track with artists Freddie Mercury, Pat Benatar, Bonnie Tyler, Adam Ant, Loverboy and others. Vinyl sound track is great Princess Bride - Sound track by Mark Knopfler can be had as well. Chicago - Excellent jazz musical Diva - French thriller set in Paris. Vinyl sound track is great also

I suspect that depends on the skill level of the lay person. I suggest you pull the carpet and see how much damage actually is there.

If you are talking about the plastic fender liner then yes, but as far as I know they are all after market. Rock auto has them as does ebay. Appears they are all pretty much the same sources. I bought some on ebay. The holes didn't line up completely on the ones I bought so I just punched in new ones as needed. They do the job!

I don't remember the exact geometry configuration when I took my oil pan off but it wasn't too terribly difficult. Body supported on jack stands and engine supported with jack under transmission IIRC. Might take a try or two to get it just right.

One thing you might want to consider is the possibility of forest fire smoke in the fall. This has been the driest winter in the west and setting records every month. If the next one is at all similar the west will be burning in the summer and fall. Not my idea of a pleasant time. Just a thought. Like I said, the Spring is fabulous.

No problem, just let me know what works for you.

I've got a black console (from an XJ IIRC). Black buckets also XJ non tilt but have frames from tilting seats also for conversion. Black head rests. Some seat belt stuff I think. I also have the back portion of bench seat with head rests - gray vinyl.

Spring in Moab is gorgeous.

I've as much or more of an addiction to the my stereo system than my MJ, at least longer anyway. Been restoring and upgrading various components and am happy with the system I have in place for the moment. The upgraded Kenwood C1 I did from the instructions by Leestereo on Audiokarma. Sound improvement was Very noticeable. I upgraded the opamps and tube in the Music Hall Dac also. Amp is Rotel 200 watt RB990BX. Oppo Bluray plays Super Audio CD's and DVD audio as well as regular CD's. New Yamaha CD-603 carousel changer. Turntable is Optonica RP4705 with Ortofon OM20. Speakers are Definitive Technology 450's.

I have a white 1990 and use Dupli-color Chrysler Bright White (PW6, GW6, PW7, GW7). Matches perfectly. Check the paint color on your vin tag but I'm pretty sure it is the same for your year.

This is what I did. Put the two half flat sides together, run the bolt through and tighten it down to the E brake. Recommend a lock washer or nylon nut. Mine was a little loose when I looked at it. I think I got the bumpers from Home Despot. Works well although I think I am going to look for nylon lock nuts.

I used the heavy duty Luk in my AX-15. I wasn't able to notice any difference between the original and the new one as far as stiffer action in the clutch pedal. Definitely smoother engagement from the old one. Bought a Timken throw out bearing. Switched from internal to external slave along with new master and converted to DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Happy with the results.

Bunch of them on ebay.

I had mine rebuilt by a local specialty shop. Had the worm gear changed to a ZJ gear. 10 years ago and still going strong.

From experience and by profession I am pretty familiar with auto accidents and their consequences. California is an "at fault" state. In this instance the other driver should be faulted @ 100%. Meaning their insurance is liable for expenses like lost wages, medical, property damage etc. Keep a record of everything including symptoms, physical, emotional, mood changes, etc. Ask you wife to help with this also. Neck injuries start out with stiffness and pain but over the course of the next few months (even years) there can be a deterioration in the soft tissue that includes atrophy of muscles and discs which over time can evolve into disc compression, deterioration and arthritis. Establish a medical record with a Dr. I don't recommend chiropractic for this type of injury. Gentle massage therapy and heat is better. Get on this sooner than later. Keep receipts. An MD might prescribe a muscle relaxer. Can be helpful. Concussion and brain injury are not out of the question. I was T-boned some years ago and ended up with a brain injury that took me 5 years to recover from. At some point you may need the services of a lawyer. Good luck. Feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Check your clutch fluid level. If it's low fill it and see if that helps. Internal slaves seem to have a high failure rate with new installations (chinese crap). If it is the slave leaking don't replace it, convert to an external slave. That way when the slave fails next time you won't have to pull the transmission. Is the oil level in the transmission at full? Perhaps your transmission is leaking. Get a professional opinion.

Wax paper on the column helps with removal also.

Check to make sure the line after it passes the battery down to the vac ball isn't broken. You can probably just pull on it a little bit and it will come out from there if it is broken. You can buy a cheap vac tester from harbor freight and test the other lines. There are other ways to test for leaks also. Perhaps others will chime in.

I'd start with the vacuum first. Does your heat go only through the defrost? If so then you have a leak. Check the various lines and see if they hold vacuum. Then move on to some of the others.

I don't remember in exact detail but I got the info off of CC years ago. There is a clip that holds the assembly in place in the housing. Remove the clip, slide the mechanism in the direction of the removed clip and then the tumblers will rotate. Slide the clip back on and voila.

I had a high Nox situation with my last emissions test which failed. REM says my vac is about 3/5ths of what it should be. Tested all of the lines with vac tester - all good. Knew the manifold bolts were good because I tightened them when I had the head milled. Again when I replaced the clutch and slave swap. Finally replaced the front tube on the valve cover with new. Viola - VAC up to 15 - 16 inHG. Passed emissions with flying colors.

The video does say to torque to 12 ft/lbs for seating the bearing. The point would be to seat the bearing with more than the 19 inch/lbs while rotating the rotor. Just finger tightening alone will not seat the bearing and will be loose when it's all put back together. When I did mine one worked well and the other was loose and I had to go back and do it over to get it set properly.

Hornbrod - May 8, 2010 This is true. The correct method for the 2WDs is to tighten the bearing nut to 17-25 ft. lbs while rotating the wheel to seat the new bearings/races. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 19 in-lbs of torque. Also