rokinn

Decided it was time to deal with the dreaded rear lower exhaust manifold bolt. Long story short I had to pull the head and have it helicoiled. I have a part I can't for life of me figure out where it goes. I'm at the end of having everything back together and I still can't figure it out. Input greatly appreciated if you can tell me. Thanks, much appreciated.

Glad you made it. Boring OR, been there quite a few times. Used to live right at the entrance to McIver St Park. Loved it. Have you been to the restaurant with the large Grizzly being the first thing you see when you walk in? Definitely impressive if not shocking.

Nice to know my MJ and I share the same Birthday. Perhaps I'll take her out to my celebratory dinner tonight.

I'm less familiar with the Albuquerque-SLC route, particularly the portion through southern Utah but I have driven much of it and it is relatively flat. The other route I have driven many times and aside from the often strong head winds through Wyoming the only portion of significance to be concerned with is the segment on I84 down into Ogden which has a long fairly steep down grade out of the Rockies. I would probably lean toward the Alb-SLC route. A lot of it is pretty isolated 2 lane highway however. Good luck

Makes sense! Thanks for adding that correction.

A leak in a closed system isn't just a leak like it would be in an open system where the open system leaks until there isn't enough coolant in it to sufficiently cool the engine. It's a source for sucking in air from the leak source when the engine cools down instead of returning the coolant from the expansion tank to the engine as it's designed. The more cycles it goes through the more air that is sucked in compromising the effectiveness of a closed system. The smell is likely just this. I had a pin hole leak in my newish closed radiator doing this. I switched to an open system.

I'm with ya!

I've been washing my engines at the car wash for years and never had a problem. The top side of the engine I never pull the trigger, just what comes naturally from the sprayer when it comes on. I try to not spray directly on sensitive parts. Only on the under side do I pull the trigger. My MJ when I got it took several attemps to do a thorough job. I started with the most obvious first. Oil pan gasket & rear main were last.

My cable will release the latches on both sides but I still have to sit in the middle to get it to move back. Pretty much why it stays where it is.

I'm not familiar with that system but it sounds like one good possibility is that the choke i not opening up after the engine warms up. Bending connecting rods for adjustment seems a little too low tech to be true but adjustment and opening after the engine warms up would be different issues.

I like the look of the exposed speaker covers myself. Plus your sound from the speaker will be a lot clearer.

Got mine today.

Ya gotta love it!

I measured 3.183 on some new Moogs. So 3.19 seems the closer of the two.

Twas me. I'll likely be selling the one I have on there now. It's still in pretty decent shape. Chrome also.

Autozone carries them. Can't speak as to quality.

They make plastic trim removal tools. Start at one end on one side and pry it up. They're held on by clips.

I was having similar issues. After replacing a failed MAP sensor my idle was still running about 1250 or so. I had previously adjusted the butterfly to the .003 recommendations with a flat feeler gauge. Decided to close it down to almost imperceptively open. Brought the idle down to about 1000. Decided it was time to do Cruisers tip 31 map hose conversion. That made a big difference. Now fluctuates between 750 and 950 or so depending on engine temp and running time. Next will be to replace the broken rear lower stud on the exhaust/intake manifold. Once I'm convinced winter is over. Good luck to you!

Hard to imagine that's anything other than a thermostat that's failed open. Going up hill will warm it up some and going down hill will definitely cause it to cool. The hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator after it's run for awhile should feel pretty hot despite the outside temp.

Is that a Triumph Spitfire next to it? If so, what year?

Cold will bring out the worst in a failing battery. You may check to make sure your cell levels are where they should be as well as getting a good charge on it with a charger. Then have it load tested. My guess is that you need a new one however. Starting with it jumped is a sign your battery isn't up to snuff.

This is what I've been using too. When I went to buy it I was going to buy MT90 but the distributor asked if I would like him to look up the prescribed oil for my vehicle. After I questioned what he came up with he called the chemist at Redline and he confirmed 75w90NS. Seems to work well.

IIRC I knocked mine out with a finish nail. # 2 probably, but use whatever diameter will go through the hole.

I suppose it depends on one's definition of decent as well as one's skill with a brush. Why not just buy a roll of painters plastic and protect the rest of the truck from over spray. Take the end caps off as well as license plate and plate lights. Prep it well and spray it with a high quality paint like VHT Roll Bar & Chassis.

Looks like the snow we got here last spring.