rokinn

If I were you I would take it home and make sure everything is snugged up before taking what they say at face value. I recently took my Subaru in to Brakes Plus (whom I had used before on a couple of occasions to my satisfaction) for an alignment after having replaced my struts. I was told the the inner tie rod ends on both sided were worn and that they needed to be replaced and might as well do the outer ones as well as the labor would be the same. They showed me too that there was movement in the steering components. Estimate was $750. Heck with that I said and ordered new inner and outer's from Rock Auto. Got down to doing the work only to find that the castle nut on the RF outer TR was loose. Can't say definitively whether it was just wear or intentional loosening but it definitely wasn't what they were saying. I changed my outer TR's and took it somewhere else for an alignment. Be wary of a lot of these places. There's a lot of shadiness going on out there.

He says he is running it as an open system so that configuration would be correct. There's no reason not to go ahead and do the valve cover gasket first. Simple job. I've read that 3 core aluminum radiators are prone to leaking. I had a 3 core and it leaked pretty quickly. I went to a 2 core and have had no problems since (several years). It's all aluminum.

FYI....Head gasket is between the head and the block. Valve cover gasket is between the valve cover and the head. Saying you have a leaking head gasket is entirely different than having a leaking valve cover gasket.

Understanding how systems work is 3/4 of the battle. You're going to have to spend a lot of time understanding an visualizing the animal you are dealing with. You tube videos will give you a visual. Others will give you a how to in terms of how to repair. I don't know where you are on the curve of all of this and your talents but drive ability is the first thing if you want any sense of payback and pleasure for all of your efforts. All the other is just (don't she look good). Focus on learning how understand the issues and how to deal with them in your vision and the time line expectations. Time and experience go a long way. The alternative is to sell it if it is too overwhelming. Something like this a little later in life may well be a different story. Challenges are great is you can handle them, overwhelm not so much. It ain't t the be all end and end all by any stretch. Comanche addicts may likely disagree. Unfortunately I have the addiction as well, but it ain't the first addiction I've had to deal with in life. Good luck!

I have Infinity speakers and think they are a great value for car audio.

I considered buying this myself but wife approval would have been highly dubious to non existent. But you are definitely way more deserving than I given what you have done with it. We'll be looking for some photos of it in action out in the wild. Congratulations.

I'm interested also.

1955 Ford Customline 1957 Chevy Bel Air 1966 Triumph Spitfire 1959 Nash Rambler 1966 Ford Mustang 1970 Subaru 1961 VW Bus 1968 Simca 1970 Chevy LUV 1970 VW Square back type 3 1974 VW Camper Van 1980 Mazda 323 Wagon 1990 Subaru Legacy Wagon 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon - still own with 80k miles 1990 Jeep Comanche - still own :) 2016 Subaru Outback - still own

I'd start with the injectors first. Fuel leaks in the engine bay is especially dangerous. You may start a fire. The fuel pump gasket is on the side of gas tank, passenger side. You should be able to see if it is leaking. Replace valve cover gasket and then go to the car wash and clean the engine. Don't pull the trigger where there are sensitive components. I've never had a problem this way. I would probably do this first since I hate working filthy engines.

Here's some info that may help. Proper dye to fabric type is essential for success. The very few times I've tried it they always had a tendency to bleed afterward. https://craftandleisure.com/best-fabric-dye-564/

Home Depot has grommets as well.

$3.19 at O'Reilly's! Says in stock near me.

I believe I found a Mopar one for considerably less than that one but I'm not sure where anymore. I did a cursory look through my receipts but don't have time at the moment to look further. I'll see if I can find it later.

Door check mount bracket and pin. Both on Team Cherokee under doors

Had an infestation of stink bugs at my mountain cabin. A canister vacuum works well for flies, not so much for stink bugs. Re-stinks the place the next time you use the vacuum.

If the reports are correct we got down to -18 and a wind chill of -40. Not a lot of snow though, 4 inches or so. Had surgery on my hand this week so shoveling with one hand was just a little challenging.

Had mine removed by an Army dentist just before I was discharged. I only had 3 and thank god for that. The next 2 days were memorably miserable in spite of the fact that it was 52 years ago. Said they had to cut away part of my jaw to get them out.

Currently for sale in Ft Collins CO Craigslist. Your highlander twin-ish.

Happy to do so. Mine wasn't wired for an auxiliary fan. Sounds like yours is but if not I can give you the wiring diagram I used to run the fan.

If you want to opt for the later model thermostat housing which is what I did. It's also a good way to bleed the air when filling. This is the sensor I used. Select the 200/210 option. Works perfectly, I never over heat anymore. http://rodneydickman.com/product_info.php?products_id=235

NADA is the pricing standard insurance companies usually go by. NADA gets its pricing from dealership sales. I would go on to the variety of sales outlets online like ebay auto sales and other online sales outlets and get histories of sales that are comparable to your vehicle and download that data. Keep arguing for a fair valuation. These guys like to win. It's as much a game and competition as it is a job. Have your value added receipts as well. They will make the argument that most of it is just maintenance so be ready to counter that. Sociopathic Neighbor is more like it imo.

Yes it is indeed a stud. If you reread my post from earlier in this thread I stated what I had to do to solve the problem. I have read of one person on CC who was able to remove the broken stud by drilling and using an easy out but you have to remove the manifold even then. You will need a right angle drill adapter and a cobalt bit. Preferably a short one. Perhaps only. You can get one on amazon. But that will only work if the stud is not too rusted to the head. Otherwise plan on pulling the head. My only performance issue was a high idle but it was only a matter of time before other problems reared their ugly head.

If you don't in fact have a cracked exhaust manifold you most certainly have an issue with that rear lower bolt. You could very likely have a gasket leak there causing an exhaust leak and said ticking. If indeed the bolt is missing you're lucky. Mine was broken off at the head. Make sure that that is not the case, if so, you will need to pull the intake/exhaust manifold. Also if you're lucky you may be able to extract it with an easy out. You'll need a right angle drill adapter and a short cobalt bit to do the job. I was not so lucky. I ended up pulling the head and having the bolt hole helicoiled after I had it completely buggered. Take the head to a machine shop and have them pressure test it and if it is good then have it milled. All in all I suppose the ever increasing immersion into the morass of a broken lower rear manifold bolt was good. My head had to be taken down 13 thousandths to get it flat. It also needed extensive cleaning of the hardened remains of having been immersed in the Le Brea tar pit for a decade or two. Why is everything so dam hard? I wish you luck!

Being a minimalist I prefer without. Looks kind of loud and has an advertising look to it for my taste.

I believe you can open the Mac's tank without worry. In this configuration it's like taking the cap off of the radiator in an open system, which yours is effectively now. Try adding some coolant to the overflow tank similar to most cars that have a full indicator on the overflow tank when cold.