rokinn

It Slid out slicker than snot once those two sheet metal screws were out. Thanks for the tip. Much appreciation for everyone's suggestions. Is the only way to remove the sheet metal plate from behind the flywheel is to remove the flywheel?

I think we may be on to something here. I don't recall taking out any sheet metal screws. Can you describe in a little more detail where they are. Thanks

Shifter boots are all removed. The engine is supported under the oil pan. I've had it at various heights. I don't seem to be coming any where near the radiator no matter how high or low the rear of the engine is. The jack isn't very flexible as to angles, admittedly. Live and learn I guess. Is it the transmission shaft that hangs up on the pressure plate and the pilot bearing that causes the problem?

Thanks, kinda thought it was an angling issue. Haven't quite found the right angle yet. The harbor freight scissor jack I'm using seems to cause some rotation when I tighten down the strap that secures jack to the transmission. Thought about that too. No cigar so far. Would a bit of rotation on the engine crank offer some useful help? How did you know it was angling issue when you did your r&r? thanks.

Slave leaking, doing slave upgrade to external slave. I've got the transmission out about half an inch but can not get it to come completely loose. Looks like it's hung up on something with where the transmission shaft enters the engine and/or pressure plate. Would appreciate suggestions on how to get it to align so I can get it to release. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'm working on my parts list for the conversion to external slave. Is this the slave you were mentioning? https://quickdrawbrand.com/slave-cylinder---.75-bore-external-w/-3an-fitting/#product-reviews Also, I'm thinking about a disc/pressure plate upgrade. Do you think it's worth the extra expense or is a Luk plenty adequate? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIUU5A/?coliid=I2G41DNIO024ZW&colid=3H4LKU0FVHV2X&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it Thanks, I always appreciate your knowledge about most everything you comment on.

Hi, nice write up. I'm looking at this job myself now. I'm sourcing all of the parts individually. Was the braided line that comes with the kit the 42" version and was it a good fit? I haven't pulled the trigger on most of the parts just yet. I have sourced a 48" line, haven't found a 42" one yet. If the 42" was pretty optimal I will keep looking. Ride height is stock. Thanks. I enjoy your travel videos also.

Oops, forgot the link. https://www.ebay.com/itm/132147796112

I just purchased these. Haven't installed them yet but they appear to be good quality and I imagine them to be thicker than the reports I've read about others. Made in Taiwan. They're more expensive than the Rockauto ones but Rockauto doesn't apparently have control over which manufacturer is the seller.

90 x 60

Nothing wrong with a happy anus either!

This one has been available for awhile now. https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/brighton-cherokee-xj-bug-deflector-ii/7688936527.html

The broad category is 84-01 kits. The only kit still available in that sub category is the 98-01 dome light kits. All the rest are individual LEDs.

I just finished making an order from One Way Light. They are going out of business so prices are greatly reduced. They appear to be high quality. Noticed Phillips brand on some.

From the photos the axle appears to be shifted to the left relative to the sway bar.

My first thought is catalytic converter. I'd run a cat cleaner through it to see if it makes any difference at all.

Rockauto . https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1987,comanche,4.0l+242cid+l6,1181483,exhaust+&+emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132 NTK 23553

Probably goes without saying, no doubt. Protective clothing and footwear???

Forgot about those tabs. I at have at least one, maybe two, in the event yours isn't salvageable.

That's just a 3/16" thick plate that is independent from the door itself. It's likely rusted to the door metal. A good wacking on the bolts should dislodge it. May have to soak it some with blaster before it comes loose.

I'm interested in the tail gate cap. Not sure how to see or acquire that particular one if it's good. Is there a link or a way to inquire about that one. thx

IIRC the glass is already a pretty snug fit without any thing else. Getting a well cleaned and precise fit on the rubber parts will be the key in having wing windows that don't leak. The only time mine will have some small leakage is if I spray directly at them with the high pressure wand at the car wash.