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Biotex

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About Biotex

  • Rank
    Comanche Addict

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alpine, TX
  • Interests
    Love restoring older Jeeps.

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  1. TTT Still need some lowers.
  2. I'm getting a little bit of wheel rub at full turn, and could use a set of the lowers. Thought I'd check on here first, if anyone has some, let me know.
  3. Determine if the knock is due to a bearing, or is it a lifter tick or even possibly an exhaust leak. If it is a rod bearing, there isn't any additive or cleaning that will fix that. I'd start looking for a replacement motor, or plan to rebuild yours. Does the knock get worse as the engine warms up? If it is a bearing, it should be reasonably quiet when first started, then get louder as the engine warms. Just my .02 cents.
  4. Just want to add that you should check your toe-in. Zero toe-in can be a trigger for DX. Start at 1/8", and play around with it a little and see if that helps.
  5. Bringing this thread back from the dead because I've been driving with my brake light on ever since I swapped in the 8.8 rear end. All this time, all I had to do is press hard on the pedal... :doh: Hope I can save someone else from such embarrassment.
  6. Tire balance is probably the number one cause of your wobble. Also check to see if maybe you bent a rim.
  7. You can generally run a .040 to .045 gap if it is a GM motor and you have an HEI ignition. If it is an older ford or jeep running the motorcraft ignition module, I'd run .035 to .038. If it is the even older prestolite module. I'd run no more than .035. What happens, is the larger the gap, the more spark energy you have. This puts the load on the coil and the module. If you add a dedicated ground to the modules (the black wire) you can help protect the module. The E-core style ford coils can handle up to a .045 gap, and are a good upgrade over the canister oil filled coils. I have no experience with the renix era and newer plug gaps, as I'm 'old school'.
  8. I just put in an 8.8 with 3.55 gears. With 235 tires, I'm turning 2500 rpms at 80 mph. I'm super happy with the low end as well. In fact, it is hard for me to take off in first without spinning the tires because the truck is so light in the back. Granted the tread on the tires is not agressive, but with 4.88's i bet you won't even use first gear.
  9. Went back and re-read the original post, and you are correct. my brain interpreted "it doesn't blow" as "it doesn't blow cold". Sounds like the fan gave up. Good catch...
  10. No need to retrofit with R12 replacement. It is compatible. Look for it on Amazon shopping. It is like $9 a can. I bought a case. It has the dye in already. This is just an option, not the only way to do it. You can put 134A in and take your chances. Probably will be fine for many years, no real way to tell. IMO the refrigerent I post above work as good as 134A. To answer your question, all indications are it is a leak based on your symptoms and my A/C tech experiences. Don't forget you will need an ultraviolet light to see the dye...
  11. Sounds like a leak to me. The clue being that it got colder just before it went out. Evaporators do run colder when low on freon, even to the point of freezing up. Then it quits working due to the low pressure switch which is by design. You don't want the compressor sucking in air which introduces moisture into the system and causes further damage. I would purchase some of the R-12 substitute with a dye in it and get an ultraviolet flashlight. Repair the leak and charge back up. I use an R-12 replacement product that is essentially a propane. Works well enough, and is a bit cheaper. I'll look and see if I can post a link of the product. Edit: Enviro-SafeTM refrigerant can be used in all R-134a and R-12 Systems. The cans use the same thread and dimensions as the standard R-134a cans. Standard R-134a can taps can be used on this product. To install to an R-12 system you will either need to purchase the Enviro-SafeTM R-134a to R-12 can tap or use an R-12 to R-134a adapter on your low side service port. Note: I used the adapter purchased from NAPA.
  12. Unfortunately no. I purchased another project, and have been consumed with it. Before I install the rollbar, I need to bedline. That is what is holding me up mostly. All the prep work! Sorry for being lazy...
  13. I think we all agree on that point, so how about you start? You have several corrections you can already make, then we can hash out the finer details as an ongoing project. I suggest you go to your first post, make the corrections, then let's see where we stand. :popcorn:
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