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schardein

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About schardein

  • Rank
    MJ Junkie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Success, MO
  • Interests
    Jeeps, competitive shooting, hiking, running

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    greg_schardein@yahoo.com

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  1. Once you nail down a schedule and route, post it on a new thread here at Comanche Club. Members along your route may be willing to provide a place to spend the night and roadside assistance in the case an issue arises. With that said, I would inspect your front suspension. The appearance of your front bumper suggests it took a pretty good hit. There is a vacuum reservoir mounted to the backside of the front bumper on the passenger side. I would check the condition of the reservoir and it's lines. A vacuum leak there will affect how the engine runs. If you don't have the knowledge to inspect everything on the front suspension, I would take it to a trusted professional.
  2. I'm the same way. I think ones sense of smell deteriorate as we age. I also suspect that "new car smell!" everyone loves is 12% steering column grease
  3. I got this column from a member here early in 2019. Lots of wobble in the tilt, during teardown found two of the screws that secure the tilt mechanism completely backed out and loose inside the column.
  4. There’s so much grease in these steering columns, it’s a wonder the inside of our trucks doesn’t reek of it.
  5. I don't remember where I got this pair of tow hooks, but they look identical to the XJ/MJ front tow hooks I've seen, except they are painted black instead of being chrome plated. The "MAX LOAD 10,000 LB" marking on the side matches XJ/MJ hooks I've seen. Thought I would post them here before sending them to ebay. $20 shipped in a small flat rate box. I've got a second set of mismatched tow hooks. If you look carefully, they have slightly different profiles. They have matching mounting hole patterns. The "flatter black" looking one matches the XJ/MJ hook profile pretty close. $16 shipped in a flat rate box. All 4 hooks for $30 shipped.
  6. Coming at the problem from another angle- A squealing belt can indicate a loose belt, as everyone has commented on. It can also indicate a problem in the battery/charging system, other than the alternator. A battery that won't hold a charge due to age or damage may have just enough juice to start the vehicle, but then be mostly depleted and the alternator is practically being full fielded by the voltage regulator in an effort to recharge the battery. A full system inspection might be a good idea: check the battery, battery cable connections, battery cables themselves (cut or broken insulation, internal corrosion), connections at the starter and block, & alternator charge circuit wire. Cruiser's Tips cover all of these I think and are a great guide. Also, it's good practice to turn off all unnecessary accessories (high amp stereo, heat/AC fan, etc) when shutting down the vehicle, and leaving them off as the vehicle is started/warmed up. This removes as much load from the battery/alternator as possible. Turning off the AC, and Defroster (which also engages the AC comp) is also a good idea when shutting down. That way the AC compressor isn't loading the belt immediately after start up, when the alternator is (probably) trying to recharge a battery that just had a big discharge to start the vehicle, as well as possibly being discharged from sitting for a while. For those that don't know, an alternator that is working hard to recharge is also harder to turn, putting a higher load on the belt.
  7. It's been a while since I messed with mine, but I think you just adjust the location of the clip (at the end of the cable) on the steering column edge. Adjust it to get the most accurate readings from all gears. The length of the cable probably varies slightly from part to part. The exact placement of the gauge cluster in relation to the steering column probably varies very slightly also. So some adjustment is to be expected, I think.
  8. Keep in mind the type of ignition key changed at some point. If you want to keep your original key by switching over the lock cylinder, you need a compatible steering column.
  9. Full instrument cluster removed from a 1990 XJ 4.0/auto/4wd. $140 shipped. I also have a 88-90 3/4 cluster, and a 86 3/4 cluster. These are XJ or MJ manual clusters, no auto trans gear indicator in the cluster.
  10. I have a D30 front axle out of a very early XJ (85, IIRC) with the V6. Has factory 3.73 gears, high pinion, non-disconnect. Grabbed it at a local yard several years ago for my eventual MJ 4wd conversion.
  11. There is an inner axle seal that is replaceable. But there is also some sort of RTV used when the axle tube is assembled to the diff casting at the factory, and I think that is what is pictured.
  12. Schardein,

     

    Do you think they have rear window weather strip?  Need to replace...window is out waiting for replacement. 

     

    Tim

    Johnti683

    1. schardein

      schardein

      Not sure what you are referring to here.  If it is the post I made about the seats, those are in a 2 door Cherokee, not a Comanche, so the seal wouldn't work.

  13. I was recently at the St Louis Pick n Pull and they have a red 2 door 1993 Cherokee with gray flip forward bucket seats. They looked pretty good other than the bezels for the flip forward lever were missing, as they often are. This was on 6 Jun 2020. What's weird is it doesn't show up on their website inventory. The doors have manual window cranks. I don't know if the 2 door regulators are the same as 4 door/MJ.
  14. https://www.ebay.com/itm/333610614715
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