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schardein

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About schardein

  • Rank
    MJ Junkie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Success, MO
  • Interests
    Jeeps, competitive shooting, hiking, running

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    greg_schardein@yahoo.com

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  1. I still get the one about the extended car warranty, daily, in the mid morning. Newest ride is 2001. I never answer.
  2. I liked the bench seat in my 78 Chevy K20. Plenty of room for activities. Not trying that in the MJ. My bench was (and is) in great shape, but the buckets are more comfortable. I can't see putting three adults in an MJ for much longer than a trip down the block, and that's if it's an auto.
  3. Hm, I like this idea. Going through my "stuff" yesterday, I have a ~12' length of 6/3 with that plug on one end, and the matching male plug on the other end. So, sort of a homemade extension cord. Remove the male end and wire to a breaker in the box. My shop is 24x60, so nowhere close to full coverage, but gives some options. The breaker box is right next to a pallet rack shelf, so this would get me to the other side of it. It is a stiff cord. What size welding cable would work, same size? I have some 1 and 1/0 on hand, more flexible but way overkill. Still doesn't help get the oven wired in? My house wiring education is high school shop class. Much more comfortable with DC (car) wiring, had more training.
  4. I think I remember those bolts w/nuts. They go through the bell housing, and through the bell housing spacer plate, but don't actually go through a block hole, if I remember right. The I6 block is tall and narrow, so no bolt holes there. See pics. Green circle is top center, red circles are holes in question. No block material there, bolts just go through the plate. EDIT: Spacer plate should be "flipped over" to match block correctly in these pics.
  5. I have that oven cord (4 prong) it was from the sellers new stove but they gave it to me with the old stove.
  6. I don’t know how to determine single/3 phase. Does this help?
  7. OK, time for an update. But first, THANK YOU to everyone who has replied. It's great being able to post about nearly anything here at COMANCHE CLUB and get helpful responses. Quick points: My limited research shows I need to get to 400 degrees to cure powder. My workshop breaker box gets power straight from the pole. Main breaker is 100amps. I have a pole barn behind the workshop, and there is one 15 amp circuit in there, which comes from the workshop breaker box. I have LED lighting in the pole barn and occasionally run a small air compressor. Battery trickle charger also, running most the time. I have a vintage Lincoln 225 arc welder that I've been meaning to try out. It requires 50amps. I decided to buy a 50 amp plug to match the plug on the welder. I will buy a matching cable for the stove. I will switch between the two. I plan to put the stove on casters, or a base with casters so I can move it out of the way easily when not in use. There is an existing 240v outlet right near the box. But, the wire is maybe 10 gauge? I plan to replace the wiring with 6 gauge based off internet research. I still need a 2gang box to mount the outlet in, a new breaker (50amp?), and maybe the wire. I have some on hand, just need to check its size. 1st pic: Breaker box and outlet (lower right) 2nd pic: outlet to be replaced 3rd pic: existing outlet wiring 4th pic: welder 5th pic: welder plug Outlet I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8SKDY4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 EDIT: and a quick correction to some of my above posts, I have FOUR 240v outlets. 2 on the walls and 2 on the ceiling. One wall outlet is upright air comp. Other is the one I plan to replace. Two ceiling drops are wires taped off in a junction box, unused. Appreciate any input.
  8. I wonder too. The last thing I need is another project, but I've often thought it would be cool to get an AMC Eagle, swap in a fuel injected 4.0 and drive the heck out of it. Around 1985, my Mom was looking at replacing the family transportation, a Ford station wagon. I came home and found a Jeep dealer brochure on the kitchen table. I thought OMIGOD WE ARE GETTING A CJ (which makes absolutely no sense). She came in, flipped the brochure to the 4 door Eagle, and asked what I thought. Needless to doggone say, what I thought isn't worth printing. We ended up with a Suburban, which I got to drive home with 16 miles on it.
  9. Saw this AMC at a yard last summer, being sold complete as a "builder".
  10. schardein

    What books to read

    Same here. It's one of those books I took a chance on, and was happily surprised. You know there is a sequel- Children of Ruin- but I haven't read it yet.
  11. As long as you trust the shop... if the axle came from a running/driving vehicle, the gears are probably fine. Having to little backlash is just as bad as having to much. And making adjustments to the shims in a high mileage gearset (to adjust backlash) is likely to produce a noisy gearset. Checking backlash is super easy, and a dial indicator is less than $30 (with 20% off coupon) https://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-63656.html?_br_psugg_q=dial+indicator Once you own it, you can check other things, like runout on brake discs, flywheels, driveshafts etc. And just for the record- The AMC 20 axle in the full size Wagoneers (and the 86 Comanches for that matter) is much beefier than the CJ version. Wagoneers (and Comanches) used thicker axle tubes and one piece axle shafts. Also, as for sealant on the axle tubes, some axles have it from the factory when assembled. I have a 77 J10 D44 in the front of my CJ, and there is a bead of sealant inside the case, near the carrier bearings, where the tube presses into the center casting. I've seen it on other axles as well. However, I doubt adding sealant around the tube, on the outside, where it meets the center section, would be effective. I've personally never seen a D44 leaking at the axle tubes. I have seen a full size square body Chevy do a jump and crack the center section in half (front D44). I've also pulled a rear D35 out of a bone stock YJ and you could wiggle the axle tube up and down in the center housing (center housing was cracked). The owner said the Jeep "made a weird noise from the rearend sometimes, and handled funny. And it leaks". Yeah, I bet it did haha.
  12. Yep, 1991 MJ 4wd conversion! My progress has slowed, I have competing projects, garden, upgrading trailer lug studs from 7/16" to 1/2", wiring workshop for a 50A plug for an oven to experiment with powder coating, and plenty of work on the property as weather improves and ground dries a little. But yes, getting the D44 & D30 put together are definitely on the list!
  13. On my MJ D44, there are 6 places for plug welds on each side of the diff casting. 3 on top, 3 on bottom. You can see the 3 top ones in the first pic. I definitely would not weld in the case spreader holes, so you can use a case spreader, 2nd pic.
  14. On an axle this old, new seals are a good idea, but be sure it isn't just a leaky brake wheel cylinder. Replacing axle shaft seals is way more involved (and expensive) then replacing a wheel cylinder. That's a good thing about drum brakes- replacement components are inexpensive, except sometimes the drum, although many times they can be inexpensive too.
  15. Thank you for the offer. My axle does have the bracket and I plan to retain my LSV. But I'm sure someone here will be able to use it, rare part for sure.
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