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schardein

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Everything posted by schardein

  1. What you are looking for is a "dual diaphragm vacuum brake booster". 1996 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) is another source for a dual diaphragm booster that can be adapted to the older XJs/MJs. The early XJs/MJs use a single diaphragm. The dual unit simply has more surface area for the engine vacuum to work against, so you get more boost. The next step up in brake booster performance would be a conversion to a Hydroboost unit, which uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump to provide the boost instead of engine vacuum. Commonly found on GM 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, also older Astro vans. Much more work involved than going to the dual diaphragm unit.
  2. That light broke on my 89 XJ. I wrangled with it a few times and gave up. I much prefer the GM style manual retractable light. Manual retracting and manual switch. There are several variations on this light. The best setup use a solid retaining tab for the light (some have a relief that makes them prone to breaking off), extra mounting holes, and stronger retaining tabs for the clear lens.
  3. My personal opinion is a Jeep Cherokee XJ makes a good daily driver. They are inexpensive, easy to work on, easy to get parts for, come standard with a 4.0 engine that has enough power for light towing, and most are 4wd for places where that is a good idea for dependable year round transportation. Downside is the fuel mileage isn't that great, around 16-20 mpg depending on year, condition, options and modifications. And they have relatively high cabin noise on the highway.
  4. How hot do you have to get it to get the 4.56 gears? I'm sorry, I know it was a typo or autocorrect, but made me chuckle.
  5. Ensuring you are actually achieving WOT (wide open throttle) is a tuning step for old school drag racers/hot rodders who are tuning for maximum performance. Most common reason for not achieving wide open throttle is carpet or floor padding/insulation not allowing the accelerator pedal full travel ("pedal to the floor"). If you have floor mats under your pedal, or have installed new carpet at some point, or even just have factory carpet-- do some experimenting to determine if you can get WOT by removing the floor mat/padding/carpet. As already noted, look at the throttle blade, not just the linkage.
  6. I've stopped there several times over the years. Even when i knew I wasn't going to buy anything. I didn't make my usual stop in Oak Ridge to eat at Big Ed's Pizza. I was originally introduced to them through their long standing support of competitive shooting. The original "Big Ed" was a Marine Veteran of the WWII island hopping campaign. I never met him, but did meet his son Dave Neusel, who was a Navy Veteran and operated the place until his passing in 2013. Big Ed's is the best pizza I've ever had.
  7. I just completed a 6 day, 2,136 mile round trip from MO to NC and back, hitting 7 junkyards on the way. U-Pull-It Paducah KY PullAPart Knoxville TN LKQ Greenville NC Foss U-Pull-It LaGrange NC Cape Fear Pick-N-Pull Wilmington NC PullAPart South Atlanta GA PullAPart Birmingham AL Also stopped at Smoky Mountain Knife Works for a new Spyderco.
  8. That search comes up for XJs, but they do have one MJ. I pulled some parts off of it last week.
  9. I agree 100% with this post. I swapped my trusty 4.0 for a 5.3 solely to get better performance in daily driving scenarios like in town and on the highway. I didn’t expect much difference off road. Boy was I wrong.
  10. I attended a Jeep Jamboree in 2017. There was a person there representing several companies, one of which was JW Speaker. After being introduced, I watched three people come speak with him over the next 30 minutes. All of them were complaining about condensation forming inside the lights. The representative was polite but did not offer a solution. It was obvious to me by his body language that he didn’t give two sxxxs about the issue. I’ve spent a lot of money on aftermarket lighting over the years. Broken quite a few of them off road. I’ve had the best luck with Hella 550 with good old-fashioned halogen bulbs. I have them on my Chevy, XJ, and MJ. This is just my opinion but I think LED light bars are hideous. Even if a company gave them to me for free and paid me to put them on my jeep, I would not do it.
  11. There is another upgrade besides LED bulbs for these courtesy lights. It is common to see #194 bulbs in these lights. They are small and are also used in the instrument cluster. An upgrade is to use #921 bulbs, which have the same base but are larger overall and put out more light. One of several places you can get them are from the under dash courtesy lights on Jeep WJs. The 921 works very well, even better than some cheaper LEDs I have tried.
  12. Yes, cut the vehicle side connector off the XJ, cut the factory connector off the MJ, and splice the XJ connector on.
  13. I run the Hella E codes in my CJ7. Worth the money.
  14. The last CJ7s built in 1986 had Dana 44 rear axles instead of AMC20, as you stated. Not shown in this pic, but I also have a factory MJ Dana 44 that will be going in my MJ.
  15. As others have said, it is probably worth it to swap in a full gauge cluster. You have options of a full cluster with a tach, or a "3/4" cluster without a tach but still with actual oil, volts, and water temp gauges. Another option, if you want to run both an oil pressure gauge and your stock warning light, is to get a dual outlet fitting to replace the one in the block. Then you can install both the warning switch and gauge sender from one feedhole in the block. Much cleaner than using that sandwich adapter, which by the way, adds more places for oil to form a leak.
  16. Yep. I researched this a while back and had similar thoughts. The Xtravisions are a decent compromise of brighter light and OK life. Silverstars are a ripoff. While I haven't done this lately, I used to roam the junkyards looking for XJ headlights marked "Sylvania Performance". Then pull the light, and there is an ink stamped part number on it. Prefix "XV"= Xtravsion, prefix "SS"= Silverstar. Old sealed beam headlights are usually dirt cheap at the junkyard, and I have a 3-4 extra Xtravisions for my XJ and MJ.
  17. Brackets will not work, regardless of year. The seats will work, and are preferred over 4 door XJ seats because they flip forward like the stock bench seat for access behind the seat. But the seats only work up to a certain year, then they changed. Not sure the exact year. If the bolts that hold the bracket go straight down into the floor, they work. If the front mounting bolts go in from the front (pointing back, horizontally), that is the later design.
  18. There was a guy that used to write articles for Four Wheeler magazine, Willie Worthy, I believe. I recall an article where he mentioned that Jeep clutch MCs seemed to do much better with a specific brand of fluid. The brand was Girling, I think. Maybe I should start going through my vintage collection of Four Wheeler mags. Along those lines, I wonder if using a DOT 5 fluid (silicone) would make any difference? Both the slave and master would have to be replaced to start using it. Another thing I have noticed. Vehicles I have worked on that have a mechanical clutch linkage have a positive stop for the pedal, when it is in the "up" position. Vehicles with a hydraulic clutch do not. I recently did some work on the pedal hanger & pedal on my CJ7 which has been converted to a hydraulic clutch setup using CJ/YJ factory parts. I don't know if it's needed, but I added a positive stop for the pedal. Once when I was driving, when I released the clutch pedal, the rod from the pedal to the MC popped out the back of the MC. I had to pull over, shut down, and put it back in place. I replaced the MC and never had it happen again. But now, with the positive stop, it can't happen. Is your truck originally manual, or was it swapped at one point? Perhaps the linkage is wrong somehow, leading to the failures.
  19. Good info, and thanks for the reply. I think there are very few parts for XJ/MJs that I have not seen, but this was a new one for me. I must have missed seeing the vacuum switch, but iirc the rear half of the center console was broken off and gone.
  20. I think doing this will really benefit the community. A few years ago, I did a bunch of research, bought a set of gauges, a vacuum pump, flush gun & fluid, and a 30lb can of R-134. Then I fixed my XJ, MJ, and Silverado. Replaced everything but the evaporator, which I flushed, on all 3. All were a success, but the Silverado cools much better than the XJ or MJ. And the MJ needed a recharge this year, which wasn't a problem with a mostly full 30lb can. Jeremy, I think we've talked about this before, but I used parts meant for a 96 XJ. I like the way the hoses are ran more than the original 91. Not sure I can recall the details, but the new dryer also required some mods to make work. And orientation of the oil filter can be problematic. Not sure if I have pics, but happy to help any way I can.
  21. schardein

    Interior

    I forget the exact years, but they come from first generation S10 Blazers, the rear cargo area light.
  22. This is from an 85 XJ, so not really an MJ thing, but I've never seen one like it before, so thought I'd share. I don't know what model of transfer case this is for. Notice the "fine print" in the middle: FULLY ENGAGE 4WD BEFORE LOW.
  23. I did two tours in Hawaii while in the USMC. They have some weird laws. At least on Oahu, if you put aftermarket wheels on your car/truck/Jeep, you have to go down to Honolulu and have the State DOT do an inspection ($$) and be issued a "Reconstruction" sticker. Same thing if you do a lift, custom bumpers, etc. My CJ7 failed for tires sticking out past the flares (1/4"), non DOT approved reverse lamp, front license plate not permanently affixed (it had flashlight clamps bolted to it that clamped onto my winch roller fairlead. The guy tried to pull it off to demonstrate and had to use both hands). You also have to do a yearly safety inspection. They tried to fail my 1967 CJ5 for "no rear bumper" (it was completely stock). I also had them tell me that glass packs were illegal in Hawaii (I bought and had them installed in Kaneohe). They tried to fail my 67 CJ5 for steering when I took it in the day after I completely replaced everything in the steering system with new parts (there was too much "play"- I said it's a 1940s design, but all new, it doesn't get any better.) I just went back the next day when a different guy was working. Funny thing is you would see locals driving huge trucks with 44s and no "Reconstruction" sticker. I "strongly dislike" all forms of safety/emissions/etc State inspections. I'm ok with trying to keep our planet clean and the roads safe, but these programs are really about money for the State (TAXES).
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