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Everything posted by schardein

  1. I think a relatively easy upgrade is using a relay just for the high speed fan setting. I've seen vehicles setup like this from the factory (not XJs/MJs). I don't recall where I got this circuit diagram from, it's not my work, nor have I done the mod. But looks pretty straight forward, and takes the load off the switch on high speed. EDIT: I reviewed the FSM for wiring the fan switch, and it looks like the green wire is indeed the high speed wire. Also looks like the most burnt in Pete's picture. The wire colors did change over the years, so confirm if doing
  2. Thanks for posting this. I also have a 242 I'll be swapping in, and I want my stuff to look/work like factory, which means the "full time" and "part time" lights working. You know the shift gate is different for a 242 also, although I've heard a 231 gate works.
  3. Technically not correct for the 1987 and up AW4 transmission. That is the bezel for the 3 speed A904 used 84-86. Still really cool, as any of those shift bezels are hard to find in good shape.
  4. The connector on my 91 XJ was toast and needed replaced, so it happens. Maybe less often, IDK? I still have the connectors/terminals/pigtails available. Just updated the post in the vendors section.
  5. UPDATE: Since this post was recently linked, I'm taking this opportunity to update it. I will edit the first post and add some info here. I sell these parts on eBay. If you find this more convenient, here is a link to the connector with wire pigtails. Click on "see other items" for the connector housing alone or with terminals: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233727938641 I can still deal directly with any Comanche Club members and the prices in the first post factor in a small discount compared to eBay pricing. One big thing, I require that any transactions using P
  6. Finally got around to messing with some of the VW lights intended to replace the OEM MJ B pillar lights. This pair has been cleaned, disassembled, painted with SEM burgundy 15063, reassembled, and tested. Includes regular bulbs and wiring pigtails. I haven't installed these lights, since I have the S10 Blazer lights installed. Info on install & wiring is available in the DIY mods section. $32 shipped, payment through PayPal (with Purchase Protection please, so I can print postage through PayPal).
  7. I think I still have most of these.
  8. This makes me curious, business owned? State/Fed Gov owned?
  9. The 4x4 emblem on the rear bedside was an 86 thing, I think some owners of early 87s also report having them there. I've seen the pocket doors on Cherokees 84-86, Comanches 86, I can't recall seeing them on anything later.
  10. Factory tow hooks, rear cab light, center console/buckets, chrome tailgate handle, brushed dash bezel. To me, it looks like whoever took those photos knows Comanches. I really like the combination paint scheme, it reminds me of the Eddie Bauer Edition Broncos that were available at the time.
  11. Yeah all good, thanks guys. I saw I had been quoted and didn't want to appear rude by not reading/replying.
  12. Thanks gents. I contacted the "quoter" by msg, and he replied that he sold a part to the poster, so topic was probably deleted.
  13. OK. I didn't know you could hide a post, but I see the option in the right side drop down.
  14. It was a wanted ad for a 120mph speedometer. I don't see it now.
  15. I got a notification on a topic in the "wanted" section, that someone had quoted me. Click to go there, get this. Does this mean the topic was deleted?
  16. All factory XJ/MJ downpipes I have seen had the crush. That's XJs with the single outlet manifold, not the later dual outlet type. That's on the 4.0. Can't recall ever noticing on 4cyl models.
  17. I've looked at adapting that same part to a 4.0 installed in a CJ. Same thing, the oval opening is the sticking point. Ah, I see where you're coming from.
  18. If you can't actually see where the leak is coming from, replacing the o-ring seal for the sending unit is a relatively cheap and easy thing to try. If it still leaks, at least you've ruled it out. It could be leaking from the fuel lines (while under pressure with the truck running) from a loose clamp or a split in the line near the clamp, or from a failed weld (from rust) or a rust hole. FYI- an emergency fix for a pinhole leak in the gas tank is rub the area with a bar of soap (regular bath bar type soap). I've had a "temporary" fix last several years. Also, this i
  19. The later valve covers still have two lines for crankcase ventilation, one for vacuum (vent) and one for clean air in. You'll still have two hoses unless you are using a filter right on the valve cover for clean air in.
  20. If you are not "using" the EGR valve, then you can remove the vacuum lines from the fitting on the intake and cap the fitting off. Same if you aren't using the little door for the heated air intake. Capping off the unused lines won't affect how it runs (although deleting the EGR valve might). Once you delete the EGR and heated air intake hoses, it looks like you are left with the fuel pressure regulator connection at that vacuum fitting. You could swap the fitting for one with a single hose connection to clean things up, and not have to worry about a cap eventually dry rotting
  21. Very cool, thanks for looking this up for everyone. This means my tailgate dealer plaque is original!
  22. Clean custom speaker install, but even better I see you still have the tire changing equipment and an upgraded hydraulic jack!
  23. When switching to buckets, perhaps something that is overlooked is the rear cab carpet panel. I believe all MJs originally equipped with buckets had that carpet panel to dress up the rear cab wall. I didn't think about it until after the swap, then the hunt was on. I eventually found the part, but finding a gray one will probably be easier than a blue one. Not that it HAS to be done as part of a bench/bucket swap.
  24. I have before-after videos of replacing the wiper bushings in my 91 XJ. They were worn and had a bad clunk when changing directions. I also greased all my pivot points with white lithium grease. Cured the clunk and ran smoother, but I don't notice any major differences in speed when looking at the videos. One thing I have noticed, wipers are noticeably faster when the windshield is wet (less drag). Maybe grab a hose and do a "wet test", maybe they aren't as bad as you think. I'm also a believer in Rainx. I clean my windshields with #000 steel wool, then with 'Inv
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