schardein

I don't think there is any difference between MJ, XJ, YJ, ZJ. I think it's strictly a matter of year differences. The parts manuals just show "Cover, cylinder head" for the 4.0 engine, not by model type. They list them with different part numbers. It looks like the breakdown is 87-90, then 91-92, then 93, then 94-95, then 96-? I don't have a 97-99 parts manual, but 2000 shows the same as 96, so I'm guessing 96-01, probably 96-06. Rockauto shows the same gasket for XJs 96-01, which also fits TJs 97-06.

These are the grommets. They are metal and rubber. Replacements usually come with replacement valve cover gaskets. The gaskets are the type that use a metal core with a silicone rubber coating that provides the seal. The grommets control how much the gasket is compressed when the bolts are tightened.

I have the later metal valve cover on my 91XJ and 91MJ. But this was an aluminum HO cover to steel HO cover swap, so not the same thing you are asking about. I did it primarily because of the threaded oil fill cap. It's been a long time, I think the breather ports were in slightly different locations, so I had to modify the hoses, or maybe I got the hoses from the JY along with the cover. I didn't have issues with oil getting into the air cleaner before or after the swap, so can't speak to that.

Nice haul!

On mine, the outer ring started moving outwards. It began to make the slightest contact with the mechanical fan and I started hearing a very faint tinging noise. Glad I investigated it. It's a good reminder to pay attention when you hear a new noise or rattle, even (or especially) on our old trucks.

Please put your truck's information in your signature. For example: year, engine, transmission, 2wd/4wd, short bed, long bed, Base/Pioneer/Laredo/Chief. It will help us answer your questions. As EagleScout526 was saying, that is the transmission computer connector. TCU connection:

I have a small collection of original Jeep CJ tilt columns. Something I noticed, they all vary in overall length, by 1 to 3 inches. Not really enough to make a huge difference, but there it is. I can only guess two things: one, they didn't have close attention to tolerances when assembled. Two, they are designed to collapse when involved in an accident. I don't know how much force is required. Perhaps it's possible to collapse them just from being dropped, for example.

Prayers to his family and friends. I always looked forward to his comments, truly a loss to our Club.

I've used OTRATTW for some switch projects. They gotten some pretty complicated orders right, and when mistakes were made, fixed them quickly after a short phone call.

The wiring for the ignition switch, turns and hazards, wipers, and cruise are all the same I think, 84-94 (95 & 96 being the airbag columns, which I have little experience with). The horn hookup may be different if it had the two spoke wheel? Not an issue if keeping the wheel with the column. Auto columns with console shift will have the lockout cable hookup. Manual columns will have the key release lever. The double sided key came in 91, I think, so the key cylinders will be different.

I believe what you are seeing there is sealer that is applied to the axle tubes before they are pressed into the center casting. I've seen the same thing on several Dana 44s that I have worked on. I peel out the excess, if it is loose. If it is still solidly in place, I leave it alone.

Yep that's too bad. I have a set of the factory dash tweeters if anyone is still looking.

The part is called the Turn Signal Follower or Actuator Arm, the part number I've used for searches is 7827038. Here is one on eBay (not my listing): https://www.ebay.com/itm/285679791957?itmmeta=01HXAVGJ1SVXNQ9Z4E774W9BBW&hash=item4283d7af55:g:1ZcAAOSwzfFluzcg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4G1qcyuZmKAzxAsH3bI%2BmDAUw9tU%2FicCRAvNWTjslN%2B26jpL2FuZNjX6CLSG6D8A6B8716VzX3dxg7Q%2Bzl2ywW1wU%2BBckQgysvr3K065TPMY59crZEvTNUGOxfvX1OwIH%2Bkh3suaQtKxrzPr19RHotW%2B0XG%2BImbANqpBxFsXrbonVjLNrkkR0LDbZtO5mx3scKFhbMRu1EISnB%2Bf1sOwKDil6b7ZH9ZElnfki0a06BhjSAgF0G%2FQ0CF7fnZjxxzW4CvpEEZTZ6cGZftoWND%2BRKOt1uZ3K16qFI5Om9iHJVxK|tkp%3ABk9SR4KhwtvqYw I think I have one if you would rather deal with a member.

In reference to the headlamp connectors, are we talking the actual sealed beam or halogen headlamps? Those use a Packard 59 series terminal. They are similar to the Packard 56, except instead of a 1/4" wide male terminal, it is 5/16" wide. This wider terminal is also present in some positions of the bulkhead interface connectors and some positions of the starter switch. For the actual headlight switch connector, they use a terminal similar to a Packard 56. I don't have the actual part number, BUT a Packard 56 terminal WILL WORK, and could arguably be a better choice, as I feel they provide more contact surface, possibly reducing heat buildup and subsequent terminal and connector damage from heat.

The obvious answer is the cable (actually a wire) that runs to each side to operate the adjusters. Several have mentioned that. New padding under new carpet could be the problem as well. Often when a problem is encountered, look at the last thing that was changed. I wonder if the new upholstery is causing the issue? Perhaps some extra padding was added, or something else was changed that is causing the issue.

They don't. I swapped a YJ column into my CJ.

Here is my bad collection. I can test, but MO instead of MA.

And my CJ!

Also, if getting one from the junkyard, the set screw on these is usually a torx bit, so throw a set in your bag if it's not already in there. On the left is what the thermometer looks like and the factory wiring connector for it.

They use a button type mount but it is shaped differently than the stock XJ/MJ one. I get them from the junkyard with the mirror. A trick is to have a Bic lighter. Heat them up a little and then grab them with some pliers and gently twist. Keep heating until it comes loose. You can grab them with pliers and tear them off, which will often take part of the windshield with it, then it's a pain to clean the glass off. Better to get them off clean in the first place. So I think the factory mirror button can work in some cases. It's a loose fit, and some might work and some might not. The mirror might pop off the mount button as you tighten the set screw. Like I said some might work though. For the actual correct button, there are a couple different styles. They are generally a little wider at the bottom base. Some have a large flange. This gives more surface area for the glue to hold the slightly heavier mirror on. In this pic, there is a thin stock Jeep mount in the left, that won't work. I think it's from a CJ. Then is the more common XJ type, they are close and might work. Then there is the correct button that is wider at the base. Then there is the one with the flange.

My 2001 2500hd LS trim had a plain old mirror. But I snagged one from the junkyard and when I went to put it in, the wire plug was under the headliner. The plug for the thermometer was present behind the grill as well. All plug and play. That little project is what got me adding them to Jeeps. The holy grail is the Jeep TJ/LJ version from 2002(?)-2006. It has all the same features but adds dome lights and switches for them built into the mirror housing.

This post has sparked some good conversation. Really I was just curious about the feature, as I had assumed (incorrectly it seems) that all the XJs and MJs had it. On a sort-of related note, one of my favorite mods to the XJ/MJ is adding a rear view mirror from a 99-06 Chevy/GMC truck/SUV. The benefits include a compass and temp readout, and auto-dimming. It just needs 4 wires, key one power, ground, and two wires to a temp sensor that can be mounted behind the front bumper. The auto-dimming works really well for when a car behind you has bright lights. There is another wire that goes to the reverse light circuit, so when you shift into reverse, the mirror is forced to "un-dim", for safety. I didn't use it, but it's there if you wanted to. There are several variations, the one to find has a compass/temp dual readout, so you don't have to toggle between the two, and no On-Star button that won't be used. I think the 2000-2002 trucks are the best bet for this version.

Msg sent

Glad you got it sorted out. Like gogmorgo said, the 95+ distributor isn't an upgrade in itself, but if you ever need to replace the sync sensor (camshaft position sensor, distributor pickup coil), it's a much simpler procedure. In fact, I think you can put the new style sensor in your old distributor. You'll need to pull and disassemble your distributor to get the old style (original) sensor out, then reassemble and put in the new sensor. But in the future, the new style sensor can then be replaced without pulling the distributor.

I have a handful of used originals. They are somewhat rough with bent terminals (common when drivers with long legs kick them) and/or corrosion on the case or terminals. But they all work and are better than a 20a fuse. I can send you one if you want. Pay shipping.