schardein

That's an interesting theory. I haven't compared the insides of the two.

I run a Warn 9.0rc. It is a short drum winch. I chose it because it is very light and compact, but still has a 9000 pound rating. A standard Warn 8000 pound winch (with steel cable) on the front of my CJ7 made the front end sit 1" lower. The 9.0rc made zero measurable difference in ride height. A benefit of the short drum is that when you play out the line, you get to the lower layers faster than a standard width drum, for more pulling power. A drawback is the winch cable (synthetic rope on the 9.0rc, for more weight savings) is shorter. It's easy to carry extra cable (rope), but I've never needed it. Before the 9.0rc, I ran a Warn short drum 6000 pound winch. It was marketed as the "Short Drum Portable" (SDP) and was mounted on a plate intended to be mounted in a trailer hitch. I added synthetic rope and mounted it straight to the bumper. Warn no longer makes the 6000SDP as far as I know. Later on when the budget allowed, I went to the 9.0rc.

I've tested several ZJ delay modules in my bench test setup, and in my 91 XJ with success. I've tried to figure out why Jeep used different part numbers for XJ/YJ and ZJ, and labeled them as such. Haven't figured it out.

What do your battery terminals and cables look like? I'm on FB quite a bit helping people troubleshoot similar issues. I'm never surprised when it turns out they are using those bolt together "repair" battery terminals. They are garbage. And- even if the battery cables look good, they can have corrosion creeping under the insulation. Another issue I've had is burnt connections at the ignition switch on the steering column. This is on my open top CJ. Even though the switch is tucked up fairly well, the connections aren't sealed, so it is subject to moisture and dirt and dust in an open top CJ. That dust got into the connectors, and over time the terminals burnt and melted the connectors. I had to replace the switch, replace the plastic connectors, and splice on new terminals. I think it's less likely to be an issue in a normal closed vehicle like a Comanche, but still worth taking a look at as part of your troubleshooting.

The bolt on letters were used through 1992. Stick on after that.

The stalk itself just pulls out, simple as that, if it doesn't have cruise control switches on it. If it does, the stalk still just pulls out, but the cruise control wiring is snaked down through the column, and generally you have to pull the steering wheel and lock plate to gain access to snake in the new one. The stalk itself plugs into (and pulls out of) the front windshield wipers switch which is inside the column. But as Crusier mentioned, the stalk isn't the problem. It's probably the turn signal switch as he said. Before you found the likely culprit, I was going to suggest checking the electrical connector for the turn signal switch. It is on the pass side of the steering column, just behind the dash panel. It is clipped into a bracket on the side of the column. That connector will have to be disconnected and the harness snaked out of the column if you end up having to replace the entire turn signal switch assembly.

Pics from when I removed the factory power antenna from my 91 XJ.

There were some variations over the years. Some use a round hole and grommet for the fresh air elbow (#53020536). Others use a "twist in" (#53008559) like some of the 4.0 valve covers. Some have additional bolt hole bosses along the top driver side (later models I think, like TJs). All that I have seen use the twist in oil fill cap, I've not seen a thread in. All the metal ones have that brass fitting on the side, which is the CCV "metered orifice". I've refurbed about 10 of these, that fitting is always completely clogged with carbon.

90-96 vehicle side connector.

As an old hot rodder, my thoughts go back to the basics. Do you have carpet? Is there thick padding underneath, or added sound damper products? Two sets of floor mats? Have an assistant floor the gas pedal (engine off) while you physically inspect that the throttle blade is going wide open. No strange noises, like gravel rattling in a metal can on acceleration? This would indicate spark knock, timing to advanced. Vacuum reading at idle? Low vacuum could be low compression, a plain old worn out engine. It could also be a vacuum leak, there is the vacuum reservoir behind the pass side of the front bumper (football shaped plastic), it is easy to forget to plug that vacuum line back in. Factory air cleaner assembly? Is the air filter new(ish)? I've opened air cleaner boxes to find them packed with rats nest, shredded insulation. Once past the basics, I'm not a Renix system expert, having owned only one (89 XJ Wag) back in the late 90s.

OK, not sure what those were. Thanks Pete. Ah, I learned something today. Thank you.

Hello, I am nearing my limit on photos... I think I was given a larger "allowance" a while back... yes, I like posting photos (worth a 1000 words). I tried to delete some of my older photos, some of them are from old for sale posts. I feel like these could be deleted without hurting content. But when I go to them, I can't delete them because they are archived. I've deleted some other photos, but there are others I am hesitant to delete, because we then end up with threads like with the old photobucket days. I appreciate any help.

I don’t see that part in the exploded diagram. 55-58 looks like a detent ball for the shift rail. But I don’t see an interlock. The diagrams for the Dana 20 and 300 in the same manual show the interlocks.

Everything is the easy button answer. Parking brake assembly, or at least the release handle assembly. Seatbelt buzzer steering column Instrument cluster The little trim caps on the A pillar moldings, especially if they are a uncommon color Really there are a lot of things, large and small, that someone could be looking for.

True. I was running a YJ wheel in my CJ. I have aftermarket seats, and the cushion height is taller than a factory seat. So with the wheel tilted down to a comfortable driving position, clearance was pretty tight with the top of my thighs. I switched to an original CJ wheel, and by having the wheel a little further out, it actually increased my leg clearance compared to the YJ wheel. It's interesting to me how fractions of an inch make a difference in such a scenario.

CJ wheels are different than XJ/MJ/YJ wheels in that they have a deeper offset.

Generally, the dash indicator staying on indicates a bad bulb or a bad ground. You say the turn signals all work properly?

These are the door handle screws.

This is the screw that is behind the ashtray, for securing the knee panel (lower dash bezel)

These for the lower dash (picture) There is a screw behind the ashtray, it’s a self tap with an attached washer. Same as used on the center console in the transmission shifter and transfer case shifter locations. The machine screws are for the door handles.

I like the punch. I have a set of manual hole punches for use with a hammer. I think I'll add that type of punch to my wish list.

Here is what I have. First two pics are driver side, last pic is pass side from the back. Let me know if you need anything else. I would be careful using the edge of the hole for the door pull bezel. There could be some variation there, especially the top and bottom edges. As you mentioned, I would use a hole punch to make the hole.

Is that a ceiling light? I have a similar ceiling light that is slightly wider. I put low profile roller wheels on the top of it and put it on the floor and roll it under the vehicle to provide light underneath. Converted to led bulbs and has a plastic diffuser over the bulbs so no danger of a dropped wrench shattering the bulbs.