schardein

Read this for a full understanding of what the fuel pressure should be.

If you are talking about the windshield wipers circuit breaker, those are rated at 4.8 (most common) or 5.5 (less common) amps. Replacing them with a 20 amp fuse could be asking for trouble. Worst case scenario, you have snow or ice on your windshield that is impeding the wipers, you might burn the motor up before that fuse pops.

The fuel pressure is a little low. It should be around 29psi. The fuel pump has a check valve that prevents drain back. It sounds like yours isn't working. You mention a knock sensor- no knock sensor in the 91+ system.

Yes, even if you don't have your headlights on. The point is to flash someone sleeping in the fast lane. Or signal a semi-truck that has passed you that they are clear and can shift back over into the normal lane. Or to flash traffic in the opposite lane that they are coming up on a speed trap. I recently re-read an old James Bond book (I think it was Moonraker, 1955). In the story, it mentions flashing the headlights to indicate you intend to pass a vehicle in front of you. I think in today's world, it's more likely to incite a road rage incident.

Thanks. That would line up with some of the comments on FB, someone with an 89 said it had it. And just for the heck of it, I'll throw this out there. The switches are all the same as far as I know. All one would need to do is add one wire to Terminal #3 that was hot all the time, per this diagram. I know it works because I added a YJ column to my CJ, and converted from the floor mounted dimmer switch to the one in the column, and added the flash to pass feature.

Starting in January of '89, my ride sported this.

I am a member of a Facebook page for XJ Wagoneers (Jeep XJ Wagoneer). Someone recently asked for help. The "flash to pass" did not work in his 87 XJ Waggy. I directed him to check the fuse, and his fuse box doesn't have the fuse, and there are no terminals in place in the fuse box to accept a fuse. He also said the fuse spot wasn't marked. My 91 XJ has a fuse marked "FL/PASS". So then I checked an original 1987 Comanche owner's manual. The flash to pass feature isn't mentioned. And the fuse box diagram doesn't show a fuse in that position, nor does it show the "FL/PASS" marking. So, was the flash to pass feature not available in 87? If not, when did it start? My 91 XJ and 91 MJ has it.

Pic is from an 87 MJ owner's manual. I've got a bench testing setup for delay modules and wiper motors. Basically it's a steering column with a delay wiper switch, wired so I can feed 12v + & -, with various adapters for the different year wiper motors. I've tested a bunch of delay modules, but never bothered to note the delay times. I think some variation is to be expected based off the individual electrical component variances, and of course 28-40 year old parts.

I still remember seeing a press release for the Jeep Renegade. My alert didn't have pictures, just a short description of a compact vehicle... when I saw the name "Renegade" and "compact", I was thinking a CJ5 type version of the Wrangler or something very much like the Short Cut... imagine my disappointment when I clicked on the link and saw the first photo. My favorite Jeep Concepts are the 2011 Pork Chop and 2013 Stitch. And I'd take a Short Cut as well.

Another option to consider, if the seats match your interior. is taking the covers off the seats you have now. Then when you find another set of seats of the correct vintage, it won't matter what color they are or what shape the covers are in. Just swap on the covers. If you've never messed with upholstery, just take your time, perhaps watch a video or two, I'm sure there are some out there. The only thing you will have to do is cut a slit in the side of the upper cushions for the flip forward lever. My seat frames and seat covers came from two different rigs, and the covers were from a 4 door XJ, so I had to cut the opening for the lever. And you have to watch those darn eBay sellers, many times they list something as fitting "84-96", when that often isn't the case.

Pretty cool. Added to my tool wish list.

From the 91 FSM. EDIT: these were much more readable before I uploaded them. If you care to msg me your email, I could try that.

Something else to keep in mind, that one pictured is for a 4 door XJ, if you happen to have a 2 door XJ or MJ, it's not correct.

This is a 91, correct? There is no yellow cruise control module- not used in the HO years. No adjustments at all that I know of? The FSM has a trouble shooting chart. The only problem description that is close is "Hunting Surge Or Speed Variations At Low Speeds" the chart says 1. Lock up torque converter roughness 2. Amplification of engine surge 3. Defective servo 4. Defective cable 5. Defective engine controller I'm not sure that will be much of a help. There is more to the chart, most of it leans towards vacuum leaks, defective vacuum check valve, defective vacuum reservoir, defective cable, defective switches, defective servo. The FSM also suggest checking for codes. That's a simple check and you might get lucky and get a lead. (the Key On-Off three times procedure) I had to replace the servo on my 91 XJ when I got it, to get the cruise to work. That was around 2010. Since then I've had to replace it again. Both replacements came from the junkyard. Based off this experience, my first thought is a defective servo. There are also some electrical checks on the servo listed in the FSM. If you would like to me to post screenshots (or message you) of the FSM pages, just let me know. Other than that, I suppose some frayed or damaged wires from the control switch on the stalk could cause such an issue. Maybe they are pinched somewhere, or a mouse chewed them, or there is wear in the wires at the pivot points near the turn signal stalk, or at the pivot point of the tilt column, if equipped. But it seems to me that would more likely result in no operation, rather than the symptoms you have.

Setups I have ran in my 83 CJ7: 258/T5/3.31/32s 258/T18 6:1/3.31/32s 4.0HO/T18 6:1/3.31s/32s 4.0HO/NV3550/D300 4:1/4.56/33s 4.0HO/NV3550/D300 4:1/4.56/35s LS5.3/NV3550/D300 4:1/4.56/35s Yes to low gearing and yes to power. I used to say, "if you are geared and locked, you don't need horsepower". Yeah, I used to say that, until I got more horsepower. Honestly, I went to the 5.3 because I wasn't happy with the around town driving with the 4.0 and 35s. The 35s just sucked the power out of the 4.0, even with 4.56 gears. I was constantly in the throttle to keep up with traffic. Highway wasn't so bad, I just had to plan my lane changes and passing. So around town driving was my main factor for the LS. And it certainly solved that. Then when I took it off road, I was like, wow. Situations where I would need to back up and try again were instantly solved by pressing the gas a little more. My LS is a run of the mill LM7 5.3 with over 150k miles. Stock other than a performance speed density 91 octane tune and headers.

In tech school I was taught to bench test every new thermostat in a pot of water on the stove top (with a thermometer), before installation. And this was 36 years ago. So questionable thermostats aren't something new or recent. I guess a bench test might not pick up funky operation at operating temp, but it will tell you if it is opening at the right temp, if it is opening smoothly, and if it is closing smoothly. During bench testing I've seen ones not open at a full boil, I've seen them open well before their rated temp, and I've seen them stick partway open when cooling down. I don't recall the brands. And I haven't changed a thermostat in years. I trust one that's 20 years old and working before I trust a brand new one.

Item 40 in diagram 24-3700 (or the complete assembly, #37) goes on the lower dash panel directly under the steering wheel. I don't know the exact years, but on the early models, this "crotch cooler" was a separate piece from the lower dash panel. Later models just molded the vent into the panel. And then at some point it was deleted entirely. I know this doesn't answer your main question, but might clear up some confusion.

This is my first time reading this thread. FYI, they didn't flip the ignition switch in 91. What he is seeing, is there is a different ignition switch for tilt and non-tilt columns (84-94.5). They look very similar, bolt on the same, use the same connectors, BUT the you have to flip the connectors over when going from tilt to non-tilt (or vice versa).

Interesting. I'll have to look through mine. Some years back I was weighing each wheel in my small collection. I noticed a few of my Turbines were heavier than the others. Now I wonder if it might be because of where they were manufactured.

It's been a long time ago that I did this, so I may not remember correctly- but I think I just pulled the later style sensor from a junkyard rig and put it in my original distributor.

Thanks for posting this, good info on a source for an obscure part. I'm looking for one for my 83 CJ, it's slightly different.

Interesting fact- when an engine "diesels" after shutdown, it is actually running backwards. Google is your friend here. There are common things that cause an engine to run on after shut off, or "diesel". Carbon build up in the combustion chamber and/or on top of the piston, incorrect idle speed, incorrect spark plugs, incorrect fuel (insufficient octane rating), incorrect ignition timing, or a combination of several of these things. You might try running a tank of the highest octane rated fuel at your local gas station. If that helps, it may indicate a need to try and clear carbon from the combustion chamber. Again, google is your friend, running some Seafoam through the engine or misting some water into the throttle body at a medium rpm (don't hydrolock your engine!) are some commonly recommended solutions. Of course, inspect the engine for any faulty or missing components, some engines had an anti-dieseling solenoid that forced the throttle closed at shut down. Although I don't know if the 86 2.5L had that.

Which buzzer do you have, the black one or the blue one? It is located right next to the fuse box, driver side of fuse box. You might try this: Pull the driver side headlight bezel. Then you can remove the driver side headlight. Unplug the headlight switch connector. Check that you have power at the connector for the headlights first (terminal B1)(volts check setting). It should be hot all the time, so you don't need the key on. If you do, then using a electrical meter, check for continuity (continuity or resistance setting) from the headlight power wire (terminal H) to the headlight bulb connector. If you don't have continuity, then you will have to dig deeper. It could be the high/low beam switch, the firewall junction block, or the front lighting harness connection near the air cleaner box, or the wiring anywhere along that circuit. I would also check for a short to ground the same way, put one probe in the headlight switch connector, the terminal sending power to the headlights, and touch the other probe to ground. It should not have continuity. Tracking down issues like this can be tedious and time consuming but that is your only course. You may have to get longer leads for you meter, or improvise an extension. I've included some pictures to help with what each wire does on the headlight switch. First pic is the headlight switch with each terminal marked with a letter. Second pic is a pinout of the headlight switch connector. Last is a little diagram I made describing what each wire does. Also, check your grounds. I think there are grounds that bolt down on the front lighting harness? I'll have to research that one. But one simple check, the headlight bulb connector has three wires, high beam power, low beam power, and ground. Determine which one is ground and check continuity from there to the negative battery terminal. If no continuity, start tracing that wire from the connector.

What year? If both your headlights and parking lights are affected, those are separate fuses, seems unlikely that is the case. Do any of the front lights work? If no, you might check the front light wiring harness connector that is near the airbox (driver side fender). It's common for those terminals to turn green with corrosion and also completely corrode away. That doesn't explain no dash lights though. The headlight switch has a ground wire that attaches to a tab on the switch body. Did you make sure that is connected? Did you look at the headlight switch connector? It may be melted or have burnt terminals. The buzzing sound- are you sure it is the warning buzzer? Do you have the headlight sentinel system? It is a silver box that is mounted to the steel dash frame just to the driver side of the steering column. I have heard mine make noise under certain circumstances. I've never known one to go bad, or what affect a bad one would have on the system, but perhaps if you do have it, just unplug it and see if that changes anything. Vehicles that don't have the option simply don't have the relay, but the plug is present in all MJs.

This is the correct connector for the factory 1986-1991 Headlight Switch, with wiring pigtails. These are for use when replacing damaged, burnt, or missing headlight switch connectors and/or wires. I matched the wire gauge of each wire to the information in the factory wiring diagrams. The wire colors are a somewhat close match to the factory colors in some years, particularly 1991. But the wiring colors changed over the years, so it is only an approximation, and wire colors subject to change based on availability. When making the repair, work with one wire at a time to ensure you get the right connections. A "double wire pigtail" is provided where required. A note on the electrical terminals- for the power in and out for the headlight circuit, I used Packard 56 terminals, which have a larger contact surface on the terminal. For the other circuits (power in/out for the parking lights, instrument lights circuit, and ground path for dome lights), I have used the factory design electrical terminals. I offer these on eBay. You can also message me if you prefer to deal directly. Here is a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/335228868056?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY