Billabob

NYC

Here's what I'm missing: Rear trim (Part that goes above carpet) Pull handle Sun visor clip Lower dash trim Right side dash section (Nook under glove compartment Here's what I already have but it's in bad shape and would consider replacing if the price is right: Complete Dash B-pillars Must be Cordovan! Not garnet or porno

I'm currently in the early stages of mapping out the wiring for my V8 swap and have a strong preference to keep the interior looking as original as possible. It is a renix system currently. It seems like the speedometer shouldn't be an issue since it runs off of the transfer case. The fuel gauge and battery gauge won't be affected. The oil pressure and temp gauge should swap over easily which leaves the tach. The new motor has two coils, each firing 4 cylinders. Has anyone successfully made this work? I wouldn't be opposed to switching to the OBD cluster as well if its easier, despite the cost.

The dana 35 gets a bad rep but it can definitely handle more than people think. I used to do scrap metal runs in my truck and it wasn't uncommon to throw 2-3000lbs in the back. Add some NYC potholes into the mix and you've got a recipe for disaster but it never gave me any issues. The comanche is my first car as well so its seen a fair share of clutch dumps and donuts in the snow. It's even got a BA10 trans in it, smooth as butter still. I strongly agree with this point. On lighter trucks, narrow tires will dig into the snow rather than float on it. Side bonus, better gas mileage. Going from 10.5 Grabbers to 9.5 Duratracs was a game changer.

Duallys aren’t exactly known for their exceptional handling. An extreme example would be a trike, would you prefer to ride a trike with two front wheels or two back wheels? Can’t say I’ve ever encountered an Ackermann denier before, lets agree to disagree.

I’m sure people have been getting away with it just fine, an inch on each side is hardly cause for concern. However, if the argument here is that the 8.8 is the wrong width then the 8.25 is equally wrong.. and the general rule of thumb is that the front axle should be equal to or wider than the rear. As for pumpkin clearance, I won’t have time to get my own measurements till next week but I can’t imagine it is significant. If ring gear diameter is any indicator then the 8.8 only sits 1/4” lower than the 8.25. I’m not sure what OP’s priorities are with this axle swap and they are free to do their own research but the 8.8 should certainly be a contender.

The 8.8 has a 58” WMS to WMS as opposed to the MJ’s 60”. If you plan on beefing it up even more, the semi-float kit puts you right where you need to be. The Liberty 8.25 has a 62” WMS to WMS, which IMO is more problematic. A narrower axle can cause clearance issues, a wider axle will cause handling issues. This is my first time hearing about pumpkin clearance issues kn the ford axle. How much more does it droop than a D35/8.25?

If re-welding leaf perches isn't a deterrent, I would highly consider using an 8.8 out of an explorer. 31 spline, disc brakes, and many come with a limited slip.

These are getting hard to find, will gladly pay a fair price for one that isn't crumbling to dust. Not sure if a 3-piece window gasket will work

This is exactly what I'm dealing with now, my comanche looks like a clown car with 3" more lift in the rear. Tossed the old ones so I guess I'm paying someone to re-arch. They should really update their description...

That was the first thing I did a few years ago. The ground is more than sufficient. Guess I’ll be pulling the stalk apart soon

Anyone have a rough idea what the delay time is on a properly working module? My stock one has been on its way out for a while now, the high setting works great but the low stops working after a few minute. Usually followed by a loud buzzing sound or non-stop clicking. Currently getting 30-40 seconds on low, 2 seconds on high with the “broken” module. Bought a very clean looking ZJ module that I was certain would fix the issue but its getting 60 seconds on low and 5 seconds on high, with the middle settings giving some adjustment. Which one is closer to being correct?

Awesome. Keep me updated!

As the title states, I need a burgundy/cordovan glovebox cover. Open to buying other burgundy interior bits as well if you have a collection.

I went with diode dynamics bulbs and they offer several different brightnesses for each bulb. I went with the 24 lumen version in the dash and love it. The gear selector light should definitely stay incandescent though, even the least bright LED blinded me.