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About Goose_XJ88

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    Comanche Fan

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    Sacramento, CA

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  1. I always flag those posts. Bugs me. Those and the ones where they have 10 adds for the same thing yet if I post something similar in description mine gets removed.
  2. Are the dash bezel black or the chrome/brushed finish ones?
  3. I've got one. I pulled 2 from the yard but the 2nd one didn't seem to make it back with me.
  4. I already have the dummy lights, thanks tho.
  5. Do either of the xjs have the cluster? What's the mileage on each?
  6. I was comparing it to dragging your tank over rocks on the trail in my head. You know, self clearancing. However when you put it that way, it makes more sense. I don't drive this thing except a little on the weekends so immediate action isn't much of a concern. I will fix it before I drive it again though. I don't trust myself to weld on the tank (thin plus gas/heat) and I really don't want to pull and drain the tank to do that work in the first place. It is a much better/stronger solution for someone that wheels and needs the extra beef/protection. To each their own, I was planning on doing the Dakota tank swap until I discovered the tank I had was much longer than a spare I picked up from a friend. Thats what lead me to question what tank I had and brought me to this thread. More bump on the drivers side or a hammer massage on that corner would work I'd think. Flexing it out would help determine if extra bump is necessary. I'm not sure what sending unit I have in my truck but it reads about 3/4 when full and stays there for a really long time. I also have never had my gas light come on so I don't know if I have just never ran it down far enough, or if my light is broken. I'm just too chicken to test how low I can go and be stranded.
  7. I'll just bang the tank corner with a rubber mallet or dead blow to give me more clearance, paint the tank and check for issues/marks once again. The area of contact in the picture is maybe 2" - 3" round, so very little massaging is necessary.
  8. I know it doesn't hit when it's parked on stock suspension and unloaded. I think it only hits when loaded down but I can't say it doesn't hit for sure empty on a hard acceleration or right turn. I should note that I currently have a d35. I'll be able to test a d44 when I do that swap down the road. Even at that, the contact area is very small considering the amount of extra fuel you gain (if indeed this is a 23gal tank).
  9. It hits the diff flange but not the tube or center section. Right now there is a little dent where the two have come in contact but it's only at the corner.
  10. Alright, who Is ready for some pics of what I think is a 23 gal tank in a short bed... I tried to get as many angles as I could without getting soaked in the rain.
  11. I'll try and get some pictures this weekend if not sooner. I've been working late a lot this week and don't get home until after dark.
  12. Yep, all are the same. 95+ XJ, ZJ, and WJ all have this seat pattern. An adapter like this would work but it also sits the seat that much higher in the cab.
  13. If I lived closer I'd be willing to get you a set of each. Haha. Zj and 95+ xj use the same seat base bolt pattern so you don't have to use a wj seat.
  14. Alright, digging this thread up again because I found what I believe to be a 23 gallon tank in my swb. I'm not 100% but here are the things I know. Tank is metal It is 32"-33" long It hits the d35 on the corner because of the housing It is only held in with 2 straps I have put in 21 gallons once with the normal click off (not 10 topping off clicks) The filler and vent tubes are pretty skewed and can be seen in the rear fenderwell What are your thoughts?
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