Billabob

I'm currently in the early stages of mapping out the wiring for my V8 swap and have a strong preference to keep the interior looking as original as possible. It is a renix system currently. It seems like the speedometer shouldn't be an issue since it runs off of the transfer case. The fuel gauge and battery gauge won't be affected. The oil pressure and temp gauge should swap over easily which leaves the tach. The new motor has two coils, each firing 4 cylinders. Has anyone successfully made this work? I wouldn't be opposed to switching to the OBD cluster as well if its easier, despite the cost.

The dana 35 gets a bad rep but it can definitely handle more than people think. I used to do scrap metal runs in my truck and it wasn't uncommon to throw 2-3000lbs in the back. Add some NYC potholes into the mix and you've got a recipe for disaster but it never gave me any issues. The comanche is my first car as well so its seen a fair share of clutch dumps and donuts in the snow. It's even got a BA10 trans in it, smooth as butter still. I strongly agree with this point. On lighter trucks, narrow tires will dig into the snow rather than float on it. Side bonus, better gas mileage. Going from 10.5 Grabbers to 9.5 Duratracs was a game changer.

Duallys aren’t exactly known for their exceptional handling. An extreme example would be a trike, would you prefer to ride a trike with two front wheels or two back wheels? Can’t say I’ve ever encountered an Ackermann denier before, lets agree to disagree.

I’m sure people have been getting away with it just fine, an inch on each side is hardly cause for concern. However, if the argument here is that the 8.8 is the wrong width then the 8.25 is equally wrong.. and the general rule of thumb is that the front axle should be equal to or wider than the rear. As for pumpkin clearance, I won’t have time to get my own measurements till next week but I can’t imagine it is significant. If ring gear diameter is any indicator then the 8.8 only sits 1/4” lower than the 8.25. I’m not sure what OP’s priorities are with this axle swap and they are free to do their own research but the 8.8 should certainly be a contender.

The 8.8 has a 58” WMS to WMS as opposed to the MJ’s 60”. If you plan on beefing it up even more, the semi-float kit puts you right where you need to be. The Liberty 8.25 has a 62” WMS to WMS, which IMO is more problematic. A narrower axle can cause clearance issues, a wider axle will cause handling issues. This is my first time hearing about pumpkin clearance issues kn the ford axle. How much more does it droop than a D35/8.25?

If re-welding leaf perches isn't a deterrent, I would highly consider using an 8.8 out of an explorer. 31 spline, disc brakes, and many come with a limited slip.

These are getting hard to find, will gladly pay a fair price for one that isn't crumbling to dust. Not sure if a 3-piece window gasket will work

This is exactly what I'm dealing with now, my comanche looks like a clown car with 3" more lift in the rear. Tossed the old ones so I guess I'm paying someone to re-arch. They should really update their description...

That was the first thing I did a few years ago. The ground is more than sufficient. Guess I’ll be pulling the stalk apart soon

Anyone have a rough idea what the delay time is on a properly working module? My stock one has been on its way out for a while now, the high setting works great but the low stops working after a few minute. Usually followed by a loud buzzing sound or non-stop clicking. Currently getting 30-40 seconds on low, 2 seconds on high with the “broken” module. Bought a very clean looking ZJ module that I was certain would fix the issue but its getting 60 seconds on low and 5 seconds on high, with the middle settings giving some adjustment. Which one is closer to being correct?

Awesome. Keep me updated!

As the title states, I need a burgundy/cordovan glovebox cover. Open to buying other burgundy interior bits as well if you have a collection.

I went with diode dynamics bulbs and they offer several different brightnesses for each bulb. I went with the 24 lumen version in the dash and love it. The gear selector light should definitely stay incandescent though, even the least bright LED blinded me.

The exhaust is tight at every hanger but it MAY be rattling where it crosses the transmission mount. I'll check that out tomorrow. It is currently loudest at idle, when neither shaft spins. The trans mount has not been changed.. I've been avoiding it since the BA10 is getting replaced eventually and the mount is almost $200. Would this cause creaking? No cat on this one. It doesn't seem to be affected by rpm other than it being loud when taking off, its totally quiet once it gets going. It also isn't affected by being in/out of gear or clutch pulled in/out. Oddly enough it also seems to be more noticeable inside the car. I figure its a small noise being amplified by the sheet metal but it sounds like its coming from where the trans crossmember is.

Unfortunately progress has been mostly going backwards since my last update. I spun out in the rain in July and wrecked the entire front end. The frame rail on the passenger side is now about an inch lower and theres a small buckle near the coil. I will try to fix this in the future but this is my daily driver so I continue to drive it. The radiator support completely imploded and I think my ironman4x4 brace is the only reason that the damage wasnt worse. After replacing the radiator and getting everything working again, a drunk driver rear ended my car while it was parked. The frame survived but the bed is rough and my taillights have been destroyed once again. Luckily I hadn't installed the bed @Pete M sold me, procrastination has saved me this time around. I figured this would be a good time to utilize my job's paint booth. I went with a darker version of the car's original color, sterling silver, and some PPG clear coat. Splurged on the key parts taillights. Hope these last! And the old bed all cut up inside of my new bed!

It's been happening for months now and I was hoping to pinpoint the source as it got louder, but no luck. It sounds like a broken bearing, sort of a creaking/crackling/rumbling sound. Only happens when accelerating up a hill or when I'm stopped at a light. The exhaust is tight and the motor mounts have recently been replaced, no effect on the sound. Is there something in the transfer case/transmission that can work itself loose? 4.0/BA10/231 combo if it matters.

Theres a full novak guide out there on how to drop an LS motor right in. They make a kit that includes a bellhousing adapter as well as motor mounts. Which motor were you looking at? Aluminum LSs are lighter than your Jeep's 4.0. Iron blocked ones are just a tad heavier. Someone on another forum even swapped a 1UZ into an XJ, interesting stuff!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284598820533 I've had this thing up for over a year. I'd be willing to give you a deal on it. It's a 91-up though so you'd have to route the vacuum lines a little different.

I would be interested as well. Been on the waiting list for a while

As you can see, single inlet and no outlets.

This is all great info. I do not have cruise control. I also do not have a CAD disconnect anymore. I'm trying to simplify the hoses as much as I can. What I’m still confused about is how a stock 1991 is routed if the cannister has a single “nub”. Is there no check valve anymore? I always assumed the HVAC remained the same throughout all the 1996-down years. How did they get vacuum for HVAC without a nub for it?

Not sure this is true since I have seen round ones with cruise control. My best guess is that the double nozzled ones are an inlet/hvac and the 3 nozzled one is inlet/hvac/cruise control. This one just has one inlet and no outlets. How does that work? Apologies. I have a 1987 4WD Comanche. Cannister apparently is from a 1991 Comanche.

My original vacuum ball got shattered into a thousand pieces and I’m noticing that there are quite a few variations on Ebay. Some are round and others are oval. Some have 1 inlet, others have 2 or 3. I bought the cleanest one thinking they are all the same but it only has one large inlet. I do not have a vacuum disconnect anymore but it would be nice to have the blend doors working. Does a single inlet ball equalize the pressure in the manifold enough that I can tee in the HVAC line elsewhere?

It should be worth mentioning that these are still available new for a reasonable price: Door Check Door Check Bracket Door Check Pin

LEDs were not on my list but this makes it so much easier. Just purchased one. I appreciate you making so many cool parts for these trucks!