Billabob

I'd like the peace of mind but drilling a hole is much easier than the alternative. I read through your other thread and found a solution to my other problem as well, getting 5 on 5 on my semi-floating 8.8. I appreciate the help!

Very cool! Were you able to bolt your shaft to the hub without any issues? Others have claimed that an XJ stubshaft does not have enough threads for a WJ hub. If thats not the case then this is the solution! Steering is already figured out. I'll be going with the Ironman4x4fab WJ kit. Should be plenty strong for NYC streets.

So the time has come to give my front suspension/steering some love. I would like to swap out my front differential for a high pinion non-cad D30, convert to crossover steering, and swap out the brakes for the bigger WJ calipers. Now I already have 17" wrangler wheels and I would like keep the front end as simple as possible, ideally keeping everything as close to a stock WJ setup as possible. From what I've read, the WJ front axle is wider (Great, fine with that), has wider spacing for spring perches (not great, rewelding will be difficult), and uses CV axles (on the fence about this one, probably stronger than my 5-260 joints). Has anyone figured out a way to run 5 on 5 wheels without the whole hub/rotor/adapter mess? Is there a 5 on 5 hub that has the correct spacing for WJ rotors/brakes that is also compatible with XJ u-joint axles?

Problems like this get significantly harder to fix once you've worn past the clear coat since you can't just buff down and re-clear. You MIGHT be able to scuff up the surface and clear coat over that but it will require some skill and a paint gun, this route will at least keep the paint wear uniform across the whole car and prevent any further damage. If you're going for looks, paint touch ups can be done for much cheaper than people think but having a shiny new quarter panel is going to look very out of place.

Sadly mine has been repainted, and somewhat poorly at that, but it used to be a dark metallic grey which I almost never see on here.

Pretty comfortably. I will be going down to 1-2” of lift before the summer but others have reported no rub even at stock height.

Wrangler take-offs can be had for super cheap but keep in mind that you'll need adapters which can be costly depending on the quality you choose. I scored my set for $50 and they could pass as new. I believe most JKs came with 255s which is roughly the limit for you 3" lift. I'm running 245/70-17s on 3" lift and get no rubbing whatsoever, not on the LCAs nor the fenders.

Sadly progress on the truck has been very slow. Its my daily ride so I'm knocking out problems as they arise but its been fairly reliable thus far. Long term fuel trim is still off the charts, the gap between my exhaust manifold is getting bigger due to a snapped exhaust stud, and I'm getting a pretty audible lifter tick (hopefully) that comes and goes with the weather. Scrap metal runs have the truck at some weird angles sometimes, here she is exceeding the payload limit. Still won't wheelie, I blame the 3.07s! The general grabbers that I got the truck with have developed some pretty nasty holes in the sidewalls so I bit the bullet and got a set of Duratracs on black friday. Also picked up some JK takeoff rims for about $50. 17s might be an unpopular choice but I wanted to reduce some of the floatiness on the highway while retaining decent pumpkin clearance, I think I achieved just that. Grabbers were 30.5x10.5-15 and the Duratracs are 245/70-17 if anyones wondering. Tire width is whole inch narrower now, no more tire rub at full lock and I can finally move on to the WJ knuckle/brake/steering swap. First three wheels came off fine but the fourth one had a very stripped lug nut. 4 hours of chiseling and it showed no sign of moving so I resorted to some unusual methods Pretty happy with the final result, it drives like a whole new car now. Rear end never kicks out in the rain anymore and corners feel a lot more stable. I can also brake much faster without slipping, I think those grabbers were more worn than I'd like to admit. It's getting too cold to wrench outside here in the northeast so I'll be focusing on prepping my new bed from @Pete M instead. I've recently gotten a job at a painting factory and hope to develop enough skill to paint the truck come spring. Bed will be getting por-15 on the underside, rhino lining in the bed, and midnight metallic black on all the visible exterior portions. If everything goes as planned I should be able to install the bed over a weekend and coat the frame rails in por-15 while the current one is off. Well it all started with the airbox. The previous owner did some weird stuff with the vacuum lines and the stock airbox was in pretty rough shape. A decent quality used one was upwards of $200 with a new filter so I sprung for the $150 Spectre cold air intake instead. Gained a tad bit of torque but lost any useable space for the washer tank, inner fender tank seemed like the cleanest and easiest solution

I also purchased a shift boot from them and was pleasantly surprised to see that the package shipped from my hometown in Poland. Havent gotten a steering wheel cover from them YET but the shift boot is very good quality.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334435748165?hash=item4dddec8945%3Ag%3AaGYAAOSwP7ZieZfW&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5335981329&customid=&toolid=10049 These are getting harder to find if you're not near a junkyard. Fair price too

Thats Timbukthree, they are awesome! They've helped me with a lot of parts

First time seeing another comanche in the same color as mine. Very clean!

Gotta add the jolly rancher juice

Another very small step forward! The previous owner had swapped out the brake booster for one of the larger ones style ones and completely removed the wiper reservoir. Finally had enough time to swap in a 97+ unit but it was a very tight fit between the cold air intake and hood strut.

My moneys on U-joints, I had identical symptoms on mine and my U-joint bearings were ground to dust. Wouldn't hurt to check the rest of the steering while you're in there. You can compress your ball joints at the wheel and drag link with some channel locks and any play should be pretty evident. Steering boxes don't usually have minor issues other than looseness, just make sure your PS fluid is topped off.

My slider window is on it's last legs and I'd like to replace it with a non-sliding version however these don't seem to exist anywhere. Were they only available as stock options? Has anyone found a replacement that fits? I'll happily settle for used if anyone has one laying around..

Wow perfect timing, I am in dire need of a new short bed and the grey one is calling to me. Could you PM me some more pics? Very very interested

Normally I'd suggest a JIS bit and one of those hand impacts but I'd probably drill the heads off the bolts instead seeing as the lights are worth a small fortune. Even if you do manage to get the screws to turn, the force needed to turn them is almost definitely greater than the force needed to snap the little plastic tabs off inside. I ordered some new taillight clips off of etsy and they came with nice stainless torx head screws, that paired with blue loctite should help avoid this problem in the future.

I'm on my 4th RMS attempt this month! I've decided to just live with it for now but it's quite a substantial leak. Will be following this thread as well for any tips

Looks like Jeep just dropped a new Inline 6. A liter less and 400 horsepower more than us. Any thoughts? https://www.motortrend.com/news/stellantis-hurricane-inline-6-engine-jeep-ram-dodge-chrysler/amp/

Which hub did you end up running to get a 5 on 5 pattern? I believe the WJ hub will not work since its for CV axles. Your Yukon kit will give you a 5 on 5.5 pattern by the way, not the 5 on 5 you desire.

Apologies again for the incredibly sporadic responses, I was hoping to return with a little more info but a pesky rear main seal leak has taken up all of my free time. Thank you Ohm for the info about the shielded wire, that confirms my suspicions about it being intentionally bare. A quick glance with my trusty timing light revealed that my engine sits at 20 degrees at fully warmed up idle. I'll be giving my CPS a closer look in the near future and I have a good quality replacement in case the current one is busted, might be a good time to do C54's timing advance mod while I'm at it. My immediate focus will be on the MAP hose as mine is leaking worse and worse while my LTFT is still rising, currently in the high 160s. All the parts from Cruiser's tip #31 have arrived but still waiting on the obscure 1/8" NPTF tap to come in. Hopefully that should solve a few issues at once. Lastly, I seem to have gotten to do the bottom of my temperature sensor woes. My dash sender reads 225 ohms of resistance at operating temp but only reads 150 degrees at the dash. I believe this sensor is working properly but has faulty wires or dash gauge. My CTS on the other hand only reads 438 ohms at operating temp and the temperature reading on the REM reader reflects this value. I believe this sensor is faulty but the wiring side is working properly. I also have a good quality replacement sitting on my desk, just need to find the time to drain the coolant. Again.

I had this same exact issue. Try to score an original from one of the less rusty states and paint it before installing. In fact, sandblast and POR15 any part you can before installing. Its hard getting these parts now, it’ll be even harder in 5 years.

I’ve slowly been chipping away at this issue to no avail. My long term fuel trim now sits at 165 and this issue is currently at the top of my to-do list due to the rising gas prices. Since my last post I’ve fixed/found a few more things: 1) Did a couple of C54’s tips including the c101 delete and the temp sensor ground update 2) Cleaned and Oxgard’d all sensor connectors 3) Adjusted TPS to 17 as instructed 4) Checked initial fuel pressure and checked again 30 minutes later, good. 5) Found a minor leak in my MAP hose. The only real remaining outlier I’m seeing on my remreader is high fuel trim and low coolant temp. It seems to always live at 169° and pop open at around 175° according to the REM. It is still fairly cold here but I have a hard time believing its cooling too well, especially since it has no fan shroud and no e-fan. I’ll check the actual resistance measurements at the sensors this weekend when I re-do my MAP hose. In the meantime I’ve purchased a good quality infrared temp sensor to verify temps another way. What reading should I be getting at the head and at what emissivity? Currently getting a reading of 144° at 0.80 EMS with a bare aluminum head. Lastly, I found a wire without housing that was soldered into a group of ground wires slightly upstream of the temp sensor wires. It looks too clean to be a burned wire but I’ve also never seen a bare wire on any of my vehicles. Is this intentional or something to be concerned about?

My mistake, it is a 195 degree thermostat. Here is a full REM readout fully warm after driving for about an hour. VAC: 18.8 fWT: 169 fIA: 111 Idle: 600-640 VLT: 14.1 vO2: ~1.2 but jumps to ~4.7 every several seconds Fuel mixture: 14.6 vHT: 14.3v Closed Loop EGR off 128 IAC TPS: 14 IGN: 15 KNO: 0 mS Injector width: 4.4 2.4% duty cycle ST Fuel Trim: 99-120 LT Fuel Trim: 150 GPH: 0.44 MAP: 11.6-12 So it seems that my vacuum is fine after all and the only real outlier here is the water temp.. 169 degrees is way too low. Judging by how many people struggle to cool their jeeps below factory settings, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the sensor or sensor ground is probably faulty. Does anything else look out of place? All measurements were taken while parked, would it help to get any other measurements while actually driving the car?