schardein

That cluster is a fairly rare "police package" cluster with the 120mph speedometer. $200 is a fair price. It will work in your 92, just change out the oil and temp senders. You can adjust the mileage on the speedometer to match your actual mileage on the old speedometer, but it takes a little work. If you switch out your speedometer from the old cluster, you would lose the 120mph speedo, but also, you would lose the trip odometer function. Your "dummy" light cluster doesn't have a trip odometer. The police package cluster was available in column shift and console shift versions, so finding one with the column shift indicator locally is a great find.

I'll relate a personal experience. I used to own a 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD. It was high mileage, but in mint condition. No dents, no rust. I ran across a set of brand new Michelin tires in the factory size for a great price. The only downside, they were 5 years old. I bought them and had them installed at a local place (I live in a very rural area). Fast forward four months, I make a 1200 mile road trip. Half way through the trip, the passenger front tire blew out, with a portion of the tread separating from the tire. The chunk of tread dented my fender, ripped off the fender flare, damaged the plastic shrouding on the top of the front bumper, broke a clip on the lower air dam on the front bumper, and put a dent in my lower rocker panel just below the passenger door. Only blowout I've ever experienced on my own vehicle in my life. I'll never know for a fact that the aged tire contributed to the failure, but that's what I believe. All that damage to a mint truck to save a couple hundred dollars. I would trust 5 year old tires that came off a running, driving vehicle, before I would trust completely unused 5 year old tires.

exactly right, I think my spares are actually from Dakotas.

Forgot to mention, I have a couple spare '91 YJ speed sensors with the speedo cable pass through, if your new one doesn't show up.

You're welcome. Yes, I would do a short test drive and expect minimal issues, especially with a manual. If that went well, I wouldn't be afraid to drive it. I have some limited experience tuning LS engines, and that has been my experience with the speed sensor in that application (manual trans) as well, making changes affects how the engine behaves in deceleration.

KJs in the junkyard today are like XJs were 15 years ago- throw a lug nut and you'll hit 10 of them. Someone should be able to find a nice set of door seals.

Yep, same advice as above, google how to read the date code on the tires. If they are more than a couple years old, even if they are brand new/unused, don't buy them.

In both my 91 XJ & MJ, the wiring comes out of the distrbutor and goes towards the rear of the engine. There is a small stainless steel clip that holds it to the motor mount bracket, but that is something I added from the 87-90 models. It continues to the rear of the engine, going over the oil pressure sender, and goes into a grouping of two or three other wiring looms, near the firewall. The grouping of looms is also near the place where several ground wires are attached to the rear pass side of the engine block. The pictures below have the distributor wiring highlighted in green.

I have a 91 MJ and XJ, I can get that tomorrow!

Color choice is purely subjective. The first pics make it look like a desert sand, which I think can look good on certain projects. The 3rd pic makes it look like a light yellow. Sort of like a Saxon Yellow which was an option on Jeep CJs in 79 (probably other models/years as well). Definitely not my favorite but it can look sharp with some contrasting graphics.

I don't own a Renix XJ/MJ to refer to, but thought I would look at the '88 electrical manual to see if I could find the answer. I believe the distributor connector is C231. Strange, I can find the connector in the schematics, but I can't find it in the layout diagrams.

This is true. When I was looking for seats for my CJ7, I stopped at 4WD Hardware's store in Ohio (long closed now). They had all the seats in their catalog in the show room on pedestals so you could "test sit". I spent an hour test sitting and was surprised that cost sure didn't equate to comfort. I ended buying the cheapest seats they had, generic 4WDH store branded high back seats (probably the same as the seats marketed by Smittybilt these days). Those seats have been in my CJ since around 2005. I haven't ran a top other than a bikini top in over a decade, and they have seen sun, ice, snow, and thunderstorms and are still comfortable and look good.

It certainly is a good thing. Here is a factory 1986 CJ Dana 44.

That is super nice! Just like the MJs, nice original CJs are getting harder to find and going up in value. And while I love my MJ, my CJ7 is my true passion. Mine is an 83, I've owned it since 1995. Looking at the 4th picture, it looks like you are missing the pass/rear center cap. Also, I can't see an axle shaft end and nut protruding out. So it's possible the factory two piece rear axle shafts have been replaced with aftermarket one piece. Or, the last of the 86 CJ7s had a factory Dana 44 rear axle, in place of the AMC20. The 44 had one piece axle shafts stock. Might be interesting to take a look and see what you have. I don't know what your plans might be, I noticed your horn button center emblem is worn out, kind of common. Very nice reproductions are available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255554512033?hash=item3b803c64a1:g:vBkAAOSwyc5ilhtt&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwAjXM6ykOhs5sqo1HpphUJXiiYb7N2X1apeR37RDgBgOzBPuZTC2gwGwNGXCwXtz%2ByA302iFTyCSwkuYE7zJ0o9kHn6ThXzLYTWJ2FcAWXuUZwnFqI%2FyYi25sKFytqtOylmFys2dQ9%2FzxLAwQHWZFLgW%2BJhxWB%2FmVx9jn%2FP40FvzLW1Tm50xJoj2EGSB1IVgGIeG2vrCZ74GMiLmPNeDPuo1kAB6NeCB%2FhNtVC%2FXZFImrNepjlsBB0VfjM62uJhNNg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8K79uilYw Congrats on a great buy!

Maybe verify correct spark plug wire routing? I know that doesn't explain why unplugging the MAP helps. Also the injectors have the correct electrical plugs, not mixed up?

You're welcome. I paid around $30 each for mine. Great deal if you are willing to pull it yourself. As I recall, about a 45 minute job. A lot of Pick-ur-Part places don't allow a sawzall (reciprocating saw) and that is the way to go for cutting the exhaust pipe, instead of dealing with the rusted collector bolts. The downside is you don't find the aftermarket manifolds very often. But you might get lucky and find a Borla header. I have two that I found. On a stock 4.0, I don't think there is much benefit, the one in your link is fine.

Did the symptoms start after the spark plugs and injectors replacement?

Since you don't have cruise, you will find another connector on the pass fender, near the battery. That is the connector for the cruise control servo. To add cruise, you would need the servo, the short vacuum hose that goes to it (there is a plugged T fitting on the pass fender, near that connector), the throttle cable from the servo to the throttle body, and the turn signal stalk with the cruise control switches on it. The turn signal stalk/cruise control switches will have a wire that will need to be routed down inside the steering column, and then plugged into the connector that has already been identified. Install those items and you would have cruise.

You have your answer for 1, 3, 4. (cruise control and headlamp sentinel). 2nd pic, it looks like you have a 91-92 based of the PCM. That connector is the diagnostic connector.

It might help if you posted some info about your truck (year, engine, trans) On my 91 with 4.0, I swapped to a 99+ intake manifold. At the same time, I switched to a 96+ throttle body, which has the MAP sensor mounted directly on the throttle body. There is a small rubber elbow that provides vacuum, so the vacuum line itself is eliminated. I feel like it cleans up the engine compartment and eliminates a potential vacuum leak. When I first did it, the truck developed some strange quirks, one of which was erratic shifting. I don't recall now my diagnosis steps, but I eventually replaced the MAP and all was well. I think I had one from the wrong year. Even though the electrical connector plugged in, it didn't work right. Perhaps you have the wrong sensor? Even if it was new in the box, it could be bad, or it could have had the wrong part put in the box.

Literally every 91-99 factory exhaust manifold I've looked at in junkyards is cracked. Usually near the collector. I've looked at hundreds of them. Both my 91 MJ and 91 XJ have the replacement manifold that looks like the one in your link. Both of them are used and came from junkyard XJ engines. I painted them and put them on years ago. Both have have held up well, no issues. My advice is look for the cheapest one you can find, in that style with the "bellows" in each outer pipe. They are probably all made in the same factory. Rockauto has one for $85.99, - the 5% normal discount,+shipping.

Here is what a horn relay looks like, and how to test it without damaging it.

So I was going to post, it turns out the person I was talking to, and I, were both right/wrong. I kept researching, and it turns out 95-96 XJs had fog lights that could be turned on with the parking lights on. I looks to me like the change happened with the change from the Saginaw steering column to the Chrysler airbag column. The 95/96 XJs have a "parking light relay" and a "high beams relay". I've printed the circuit pages from the FSM and it's a little hard for me to wrap my head around it, but it appears the fog light switch controls the ground for the parking light relay coil, and power flows from the parking light relay, through the normally closed side of the high beam relay to the fog lights. And I agree, while the way they chose to wire it is strange to me, the function is better than only on with the low beams.

That's my understanding. Fog lights are intended to get under the fog, so the lower mounting is better. I've also heard the purpose of amber or yellow lenses on fog lights is to make the vehicle more visible to other drivers. It seems most modern vehicles don't bother with that. Personally, I don't find fog lights useful. Heavy fog is something I rarely encounter. The fog lights on my newer Silverado are barely discernible. When switched on, I see a small amount of added light very close in and at the outside edges of the low beams. Perhaps they would be more noticeable/useful when actually used in heavy fog? I don't know. I do like having a pair of driving lights. With a worn out set of original sealed beams or stock halogen headlights, having another set of driving lights aimed more or less where the low beams are can make a noticeable difference. The set I have now is aimed just a little further out, between the low and high beams. After careful thought, I do believe it makes a lot more sense to upgrade headlights before adding other lights. It's better to take advantage of the existing mounts, wiring (upgraded), and switch first. But I'm off topic. If anyone has ever encountered an XJ or MJ with fog lights that could be switched on with only the parking lights on, please chime in. I don't think they were ever wired that way stock.