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About AZJeff

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    Comanche Addict

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    Queen Creek, AZ

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  1. A 4.0 cooling system will do an "acceptable" job of keeping the engine at normal (design) operating temperature, even with air conditioning, and even in extreme temperatures. I live in Phoenix, and have had three XJ's and MJ's that have successfully operated in a climate where daytime temperatures regularly go over 110*, and pavement temperatures are regularly above 140*. The key to a successful cooling system is one where ALL the OEM components are operating as designed, and therein lies the trick: many owners neglect little things like a worn viscous clutch fan, or a missing m
  2. I cannot explain why Jeep only used in selective places on th bell housing. However, the use on fenders, door hinges/strikers, etc. is obviously driven by those production line factors.
  3. The Torx bit was developed by The Camcar division of Textron. It’s design is similar to that of a gear tooth (technically it’s an “involute spline”) and it spreads the fastener driving force over a larger area. The MAIN advantage is that the tools used to drive Torx fasteners last MUCH longer in a production line environment. So now you know....😉
  4. Only Jeep would use machine screws to attach tailights 🙄 I switched to Torx head stainless steel #8 (I think) sheet metal screws and “j-nuts” to attach my taillights.
  5. No, the trans throttle cable controls some of the fluid porting in the trans. When mine was out of adjustment, the trans would slip in and out of gear randomly at cruising speed, yet would accelerate fine.
  6. How did you do the graphics? They look very OEM.👍 Suggestion: you need some black screws to hold on the bottom instrument panel cover to make it a bit more finished. If you cannot find any on Guam, let me know what size/length you need. I might have some I can send you.
  7. The 97 Dakota tank holds 22gal., and fits quite nicely (with a small dent added to the tank to clear a chassis brace.)
  8. I put in the reclining sport seats, with the optional lumbar support. I went with cloth, because leather is no real pleasant here in AZ in the summer. Thet are firm, with decent side support, but not hard to climb into on an MJ with a 3.5” lift. Wife does not complain (much).
  9. I put a set of Corbeau seats in my MJ, and used their brackets as well. I had only one bolt hole I had to ream to get it to align with the stud in the floor. I am happy with the fit, and the comfort.
  10. I am curious has to how you separated the sheets so cleanly. Were they spot welded, or bonded via adhesive around the perimeter?
  11. I have heard stories of body men who use head and quickly cooling the heated metal to shrink/straighten dents that are not full creases. This would save having to separate the panels. it’s most often employed on classic prewar autos where replacement sheet metal is non-existent. I don’t know what the odds are of finding a guy in Guam who is willing to try this, but do some YouTube searches to study the technique.
  12. Yup, it’s kind of a trial and error method to cut enough to clear the clutch. Cut only as much as absolutely needed.
  13. Agreed. The MJ/XJ series from Jeep are probably some of the BEST vehicles for a DIY guy to own. They are robust, relatively simple, and most things can be fixed without any fancy tools. It sure beats the heck out my 2014 Wrangler, which is the opposite of simple. I unplugged a couple of connectors to measure some voltages, and when I next started the vehicle, it threw a "check engine" light and a "traction assist error" light as well. What a pain in the rear....
  14. New pans, welded in. POR 15 is good, so is commerical truck bed liner.
  15. Yeah, I can see that. But...you still need a shroud, especially if you live in a hot climate, as it makes the fan SO much more effective. Unless you make some mods to the OEM shroud, you will get a chance to do it all over again the next time you take the shroud out.
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