Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About AZJeff

  • Rank
    Comanche Aficionado

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Queen Creek, AZ

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The method Dzimm is suggesting works quite well, and can be tucked up next to the rail of the "uniframe".
  2. Anything better than a rattle-can paint job needs to have all rust neutralized/removed and any holes repaired before painting, or it will come back quickly. if you plan to add oversized fender flares, any cutting, etc. for those should be done before painting.
  3. That is a REALLY FIRST CLASS job of fitting that OHC into the MJ roof. I had an XJ with that long console, and the one I have in my MJ now came with the vehicle (but not connected) and is the "mini" one, with only some map lights, and no thermometer/compass. I like yours much better!
  4. AZJeff


    Down here in AZ, there are a bunch of smaller (semi-micro brewers) who offer some good IPA's: San Tan Brewing "Moon Juice Galactic IPA" (Chandler, AZ) Dragoon Brewing "Dragoon IPA" (Tucson, AZ) Mother Road Brewing "Tower Station IPA" (Flagstaff, AZ)
  5. Add washers to space it properly. Crushing the shackle will make for problems if you have to disassemble it later.
  6. I would definitely recommend the ZJ steering parts (tie rods & drag link). i do not think there is any difference between ZJ and MJ/XJ ball joints. i hate the design of the factory track bar where it attaches to the bracket on the chassis. If you can afford the scratch, I would upgrade to an adjustable track bar and corresponding bracket that does away with the ball and socket joint on the chassis end.
  7. I have labeled the chassis pieces in the attached photos you took. I suggest you go to Rock Auto, because they will show you pictures of the parts offered, and you can match not only the names of the parts, but you can confirm the appearance.
  8. Good point, especially if you are running larger wheels and tires and/or have a significant lift.
  9. There isn’t a kit, per se. you just purchase all the pieces for each subsytem. —upper and lower ball joints for the axle —tie rod ends and drag link Ends for the steering —complete track bar i would go to Rock Auto to get the parts. The Moog brand would be among the selections available, and is a very good choice.
  10. Ahhhh.....OK. So can you send us a pic of your cowl and the hole that needs plugging? WIth more details, I might be able to suggest a solution other than welding.
  11. Does the photo you supplied show this "other hole", because I don't see anything that looks very large and needing to be plugged.
  12. Agreed with the suggestion to clean the gunk off. The oil on the rubber bushings for the shock will cause it to deteriorate. Time to get some foamy engine cleaner and the hose, and go to work on the engine compartment.
  13. Do you want OEM equivalent to attempt to restore your MJ to factory appearance, or just good seat belts? I used these guys, and their belts are perfectly acceptable, but they are not a perfect match to OEM. However, I went with the type of female buckles that are attached to a stiff cable, rather than the fabric type, as they are easier to find with a bucket seat and a console.
  14. No need to take the metal studs off that are welded to the frame around the windshield, but I WOULD remove the little clips, especially if they are the steel kind. They have a tendency to cause rust, even when they are not holding anything down. I am assuming you are having a auto glass shop put the new gasket (molding) in at the same time as installing the windshield itself, because the rubber fits over the edge of the glass prior to being adhesively bonded to the window opening.
  15. I haven't seen anyone talk about this here, but based on my experience with XJ's and my MJ, the cooling system for the engine is the Achille's Heel of the vehicle. Not taking care of your cooling system can result in getting stranded somewhere (which is annoying) or, worse yet, an overheated engine with head cracks and/or head gasket issues, (which is expensive). Take care of your cooling system: keep the coolant clean, and use distilled water when mixing the antifreeze keep the radiator in good shape. One that has corrosion in the tubes cannot transfer heat. Keep dirt/bugs our of the fins by washing it with a hose nozzle once in a while watch your hoses for soft spots or bulges use a good working pressure cap on your cooling system. The ones in the "closed" systems are especially prone to failure, as is the plastic pressure tank. A cooling system that won't hold pressure will overheat sooner. keep the factory shroud for your mechanical fan installed as from the factory. It helps the fan pull air through. this has been mentioned before, but DO NOT change your thermostat to something with a lower rating than the 195* original level. A lower temp. thermostat WILL NOT make your engine run cooler.
  • Create New...