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AZJeff

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About AZJeff

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    Comanche Fan

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    Queen Creek, AZ

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  1. AZJeff

    Cause of knock?

    Throw some JB Weld on it, and it will be good to go. Or so say the fans of JB Weld.....
  2. AZJeff

    97 XJ e-brake with Ford 8.8

    The ferrules are only crimped (swaged) onto the cable end. Brazing or welding would be just as strong if not stronger. If you are not confident in your own skills, do you know someone with a brazing torch or welder that you can take the cables to and have the work done?
  3. AZJeff

    Seat Belt Bolt Size

    I have some lower bolts (for the inboard tunnel side and the outer rocker panel side) of my MJ I would be glad to donate to the cause. They are shoulder bolts with about a 3/8" of unthreaded shoulder and the standard T20(?) head. Let me know if you want them.
  4. AZJeff

    97 XJ e-brake with Ford 8.8

    For my MJ to use an XJ brake lever, here is what I did: For starters, the piece you don't the name of is called the "equalizer bracket". It equalizes the pull to each of the two rear wheels. The threaded rod, as you noted, does the preliminary adjustment to get the cables tensioned. I took the cables off of my rear wheels, and cut the cables at the equalizer end by the amount needed to allow the threaded equalizer rod to still have some adjustment into it. I then then brazed a new ferrule onto the cable and reinstalled them into the equalizer. The other option is to cut the existing equalizer bracket assembly that is bolted to the chassis, and weld in an extension into it. THe idea behind this is to lengthen the distance between the hand lever cable anchor point and the wheel cable anchor points, thus repostioning the equalizer bracket back closer to the middle of the threaded section of the adjustment rod.
  5. AZJeff

    HVAC question.

    Depending on cabin temperature versus outside air temp,, the clutch could stay on for long periods. Low charge levels also extend compressor run times. As others have stated, I recommend starting over. Evacuate the system, confirm no leaks by allowing the system to sit at 29" of vacuum for at least 30 minutes with the vacuum pump off, and then if all of that goes well, fill with the recommended charge of R134a.
  6. I am pretty sure the answer is "YES", but with some minor issues. There may be a few holes that may need to be relocated, and a couple of other small issues, but otherwise, the liners should work just fine.
  7. AZJeff

    Dana 44 drum brakes

    That is pretty neat and a good find. It saves a bunch of hassle. Too bad Teraflex doesn't supply those with their kit....
  8. AZJeff

    Painting the MJ

    Here is a case of YMMV. I have a 1991 F150 that I had repainted my MAACO. They used the traditional acrylic enamel (not the more modern urethane with clear coat overlay), and other than a couple of very small bubbles in the paint on the hood, it's still good to go 8 years after painting. AZ sun is tough on paint, so I think that MAACO can do a good job if you do a lot of prep work. In the case of my truck, I took off almost everything I could, including stuff like headlights, tail lights, mirrors, and window trim. That meant that MAACO didn't have to do as much "precision masking" and could concentrate more on surface preparation, which is the real key to a good paint job.
  9. OP-- I cannot comment on how to adapt the old style guage sender to a Dakota tank, but if you decide to do the Dakota tank installation, I can offer some suggestions on how to mount the tank so as to minimize the chance of getting near the driveshaft or the rear axle housing. Just amend this thread if you do go the Dakota route.
  10. AZJeff

    door window guides

    I have used duct tape in the past, and I find it tends to dry out, shrink, and even fall off the metal surfaces. (I live in AZ, and the heat probably is destroying the adhesive in the duct tape.) I tried using contact cement, but it was messy to apply. I finally broke down and bought the "real deal"" that the factory uses, and have been happy since on several vehicles. (I own several older vehicles that seem to need me to go inside the doors periodically.)
  11. AZJeff

    Belt chirp

    Just a reinforcing comment here -- OP cites two symptoms that are HIGHLY indicative of belt slip: 1. noise is reduced or eliminated (temporarily) by wetting the belt 2. noise increases as engine (and accessory drive belt) is accelerated These point to a belt tension, belt condition, or pulley cleanliness issues and not bearing related problems.
  12. AZJeff

    door window guides

    Unless you are actually attempting to restore your MJ to OEM status, I would not bother trying to get OEM watershields, which you referred to as "vapor barriers". (I sort of wonder if they even are available as a replacement part any longer). I have found that some thick polyethelyne sheeting ("Visqueen") of at least 4 mils or more makes a very acceptable substitute water shield. You can cut it with scissors or a utility knife to meet the shape you need. The exact shape is not super critical, as long as you cover all the large openings and attach it with an appropriate adhesive. I like using the OEM butyl strip stuff to attach the water shield, and that can be had on Amazon. If kept clean, it's reusable indefinitely.
  13. AZJeff

    Dana 44 drum brakes

    What I did was to make a forked-shaped metal plate that went around the ferrule on the parking brake cable jacket. Then I drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 bolt hole in the new backing plate/caliper attaching plate to retain this forked-shaped bracket. The photo shows it installed, retaining the Teraflex cable. Clip.pdf
  14. AZJeff

    Belt chirp

    Guys, this topic has surfaced 8 bazillion times on XJ forums. Yes, the HB can go bad, and a careful visual examination with an inspection mirror and straightedge can rule out any issues there. Obviously an HB that has deteriorated will cause belt noises. That said.....Nobody who is not familiar with the XJ/MJ 4.0 belt routing has any comprehension on how tight the belt has to be to avoid noises. "Finger testing" the belt for tension is totally inadequate for judging proper tension. A belt tension gauge is mandatory for good results. End of factual rant.
  15. AZJeff

    Belt chirp

    Belt tension on the 4.0 has to be INCREDIBLY high to avoid slippage/squealing/chirping. Are you tensioning the belt to the recommended level and using a tensioning gauge?
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