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AZJeff

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About AZJeff

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Queen Creek, AZ

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  1. Adjustable control arms are employed when the vehicle is lifted beyond an inch or two above stock ride height. (They are needed to restore the proper steering caster angle.) Higher lifts are generally used when tires MUCH larger than normal are fitted. You say you want to run larger tires. How much larger did you have in mind?
  2. I used SEM paint on the MJ interior pieces to get them to match the "Agate" gray color of my 2000 XJ dashboard. The result was perfect.
  3. I think a LOT of how well a used engine performs has to do with the junkyard in question. The really good junkyards pull good engines from low-mileage vehicles and store them indoors. The lesser bone yards let the potential buyer find the engine out in the vehicle, exposed to the elements, and let him take a chance...
  4. I agree with Dzimm. There is a real good possibility to obtain a very decent engine from a junkyard, in which case, rebuilding your old engine becomes unnecessary, or at the very least, a low priority. Many junkyards will offer some level of warranty on a used engine, which would increase the confidence in buying used.
  5. You are probably right. I am being anal retentive about wanting to get the caster angles back to as close to OEM as possible, and smaller spacers help me do that. i could leave it as is, and I can "live" with it. I guess I am sweating the small stuff here.
  6. The actual vertical load imposed on the hub assembly "should" be carrried by the shoulder of the hub that fits inside the bore of the steering knuckle. The bolts that attached the hub to the knuckle are primarily there to keep that shoulder inside the bore, and "probably" don't carry much of the load of the vehicle down into the front wheel. That means a clearance cut made in the edge of the hub (away from the bolting tabs) probably won't affect the integrity of the hub. I have attached a sketch of what I am thinking of doing, and the dark semi-circular line on the edge of the hub represents the cut I would make. Anyone want to comment about this idea? Hub.pdf
  7. I was wondering about the idea of cutting (via an end mill) a clearance cut on the "fixed" portion of the hub in one location that would allow the old studs to be pressed out, and new longer studs pressed in. So you think that is feasible without trashing the hub integrity, huh?
  8. I have the shop manual for the 1988 XJ, which would cover a large part of what is the MJ. If you want that, I can burn a CD and send it to you via snail mail. (It's a 26mB file)
  9. I assume you mean are my existing 1 inch spacers hub-centric, and the answer is yes, the center on the hub portion that extends above the plane onto which the wheel normally seats.
  10. Dzimm found photos of my situation. The spacers that are installed now have the integral lug studs, and are 1 inch thick, like the first picture. What I want to do is to go to something like what he shows in the second picture, where I can use the existing lug studs (lengthened as needed).
  11. My MJ currently has one inch wheel spacers on the front hubs, which were put on sometime in its past. My current tires only need no more than 1/2" of spacer, but with that much added, I would need longer lug studs. The only problem is that I don't see how to install any longer studs into the OEM type hub bearing assemblies. does anyone have any suggestions, or do I have to live with the oversized one inch spacers?
  12. Side bar--from my XJ days, I was unaware of any way to do a "bolt in" alternator relocation by removing the AC compressor. Anything you do would be "custom engineering"
  13. Yup. I was thinking the same thing. And also do do the oil filter adapter o-rings while u r at it.
  14. I am a fan of Hella E-code lamps with their separate bulbs and the focused lens.
  15. That assembly is called the "equalizer" The two wheel cables attach to a cross-bar that has a hole for the pedal cable between them. Into to that hole goes a slightly dished washer, plus a nut and a flat washer, all on the rear side. The threaded rod from the pedal cable goes in through the front side. I 'think' the rod is SAE/imperial/"English" thread. The nut would be self-locking, but two conventional nuts jammed together would work just fine. The dished washer can be replaced by a couple of ordinary washers or a short steel spacer.
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