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About AZJeff

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Queen Creek, AZ

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  1. How practical/easy is it to create drastically different caster angles between the 2 sides of the front axle?
  2. My 1992 XJ had the "skinny" type turn signal/CC control stalk, for what it's worth. I remember because the switch died in it, and I had to order and install a new one back in about 2001.
  3. The concept that someone would think that other moving chassis parts hitting the gas tank is an acceptable situation just mystifies me. NOTHING good (or even acceptable) is going to come out of that condition. It needs to be fixed by some means. PLEASE do not consider this a “livable” condition, even in the short term.
  4. Follow up to my original post: I put the new CPS on, and the machine fired right up and stayed running. I even think the slight irregular idle I was seeing is bone as well. Thanks for the advice, guys.👍
  5. You autocrossed an XJ? Cool. Yes, I am being a smart @$$.
  6. Off to order a Mopar CPS through Amazon
  7. My Chero-manche has the engine/trans and control system from a 2001 XJ in it. It was running great, and passed it's annual emissions test a few months ago. Now that the weather is warming up (above 70* here in AZ), it has a weird behavior. It will start and run, and then while sitting and idling, it will die. A restart usually requires a couple of tries, and sometimes some throttle to get it going. Once it restarts, it's fine, usually. Today it started normally and then died, and now it won't restart. It doesn't throw any OBD-II codes. Here is what is new to the engine control system in the past 12 months: new IAC, new MAP sensor, new TPS (all Mopar). New spark plugs (Champion OEM). The fuel pump runs and is less than 2 years old (Bosch OEM type). I am thinking the issue is some sort of sensor I have not replaced (some of the sensors I found on the machine were not Mopar, and I know that can be an issue for durability on the XJ.) The FSM doesn't say anything, since Chrysler has a totally separate manual for emissions systems that I don't have, and it interfaaces to their "DRB Scanner", which I don't have. I am looking for advice from anyone with OBD-II diagnostics. I am leaning towards the CPS, but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
  8. Adjustable control arms are employed when the vehicle is lifted beyond an inch or two above stock ride height. (They are needed to restore the proper steering caster angle.) Higher lifts are generally used when tires MUCH larger than normal are fitted. You say you want to run larger tires. How much larger did you have in mind?
  9. I used SEM paint on the MJ interior pieces to get them to match the "Agate" gray color of my 2000 XJ dashboard. The result was perfect.
  10. I think a LOT of how well a used engine performs has to do with the junkyard in question. The really good junkyards pull good engines from low-mileage vehicles and store them indoors. The lesser bone yards let the potential buyer find the engine out in the vehicle, exposed to the elements, and let him take a chance...
  11. I agree with Dzimm. There is a real good possibility to obtain a very decent engine from a junkyard, in which case, rebuilding your old engine becomes unnecessary, or at the very least, a low priority. Many junkyards will offer some level of warranty on a used engine, which would increase the confidence in buying used.
  12. You are probably right. I am being anal retentive about wanting to get the caster angles back to as close to OEM as possible, and smaller spacers help me do that. i could leave it as is, and I can "live" with it. I guess I am sweating the small stuff here.
  13. The actual vertical load imposed on the hub assembly "should" be carrried by the shoulder of the hub that fits inside the bore of the steering knuckle. The bolts that attached the hub to the knuckle are primarily there to keep that shoulder inside the bore, and "probably" don't carry much of the load of the vehicle down into the front wheel. That means a clearance cut made in the edge of the hub (away from the bolting tabs) probably won't affect the integrity of the hub. I have attached a sketch of what I am thinking of doing, and the dark semi-circular line on the edge of the hub represents the cut I would make. Anyone want to comment about this idea? Hub.pdf
  14. I was wondering about the idea of cutting (via an end mill) a clearance cut on the "fixed" portion of the hub in one location that would allow the old studs to be pressed out, and new longer studs pressed in. So you think that is feasible without trashing the hub integrity, huh?
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