schardein

You haven't let anybody down here at the Club. Life is constant change. Adapt and move on. I had a pretty successful career before retiring. But after serving 19 years I was passed over for a big promotion with no explanation. It was an eye opener to me that the institution did not care one bit about the hard work and sacrifices I made. I continued to work hard and make sacrifices because that's who I am. Things worked out and I was promoted the following year. But I never forgot the lesson from that experience. Everybody is replaceable. The fact that the institution doesn't care, does not diminish the value of your hard work. Will it be a bummer if you can't provide VIN info for the Forum? Sure. But it doesn't diminish all the hard work you have done for this Community.

I have a tri-fold on my Silverado. For how I use the truck, it's a must have. With that said, I'm getting older, and opening/folding up the pieces is getting harder to do when standing next to the truck. It's easier when I get in the truck, but then climbing up on the tailgate is starting to feel like work as well. If your MJ sits at stock height, which is lower than a newer Silverado, it probably won't be as big a deal. Mine rarely stays all the way folded, blocking the view out the rear glass, so that's not a big deal to me. I recently took it out to have the bed Line-X'ed. That thing is heavy, and I've procrastinated in putting it back in. I don't know how much more user friendly the roll up versions are, but I could see a time when I would switch to one.

When I needed a box for my CJ, my search ended with https://www.powersteering.com This is a "Mom & Pop" shop, and all they do is steering boxes. Turns out they are local to me, so I went to visit and the owner invited me to tour his shop. I had my stock CJ box rebuilt, and switched the stock 20:1 ratio to a 16:13:1 variable ratio. The box has been in since 2019 and has seen a lot of street and trail use. The CJ steered well before the replacement, but the rebuilt box and different ratio did make a subtle improvement to steering feel. The work isn't cheap and if you aren't local, shipping adds to the cost. Even if you decide to go with a different company or vendor, it is beneficial to spend some time exploring the website. They offer a lot of good technical knowledge, and armed with that knowledge, you can ask intelligent questions of other companies/vendors.

The Rio Grande models were all 4 cylinders. It's a neat package, I always thought they looked good with the tan/camel interior color. I've seen them in light pearlstone (gold), white, and dark green, but there may be others. 1995 YJ Rio Grand body on my 83 CJ.

I'm pretty good with electrical. You provide a lot of info. But I'm having trouble wrapping my head around it. Your dome lights receive power all the time. They are controlled (turned on and off) through the ground circuit. When you open the door, it completes the ground path. When you twist the headlight switch knob full clockwise, you complete the ground path. When you turn the light on at the light, you complete the ground circuit. Pulling the fuse removes the positive power. So if your B pillar lights are flashing along with the music, with the fuse removed, they are getting "12v+" power from somewhere, and it must be a speaker wire if they are pulsing with the music. And, they are getting a ground from somewhere, because they should only have a ground when the door is opened, or the headlight knob is turned. Or they are manually turned on at the light. If the B pillar lights only work with the pass door, that points to a driver door pin switch being bad, or disconnected, or corroded. But if twisting the headlight switch knob doesn't turn them on, that points to other issues. The headlight switch should have a path to ground that is engaged when it is twisted. Sounds like you don't have that. It sounds like a speaker wire has been connected to a wire in the dome light circuit. Do you have the factory under dash courtesy lights? If yes, they are wired in the same "dome light" circuit. You mention the left rear speaker wires were cut near the fuse box. And the clock wires were cut, but are now "capped". What does "capped" mean? Hopefully not wiring nuts for household wiring. Those have no place in automotive wiring. I don't know if this helps any. Just an explanation that may help you troubleshoot.

Cool, thanks for the test fit. I thought the sample was in good shape, at least as good as used original Jeep clips. Considering the Ford one lived its live inside the cab, versus the Jeep one living under the hood, it would make sense.

Yep, on my 91 the e-fan kicks on immediately with the AC.

I have to say this statement applies to me as well!

That looks like the buzzer, arrow in red. It's the black box, so it has a buzzer for the seatbelt not fastened and for the key in ignition with the door open. It won't have a headlight on warning, the blue box adds that feature. The seatbelt warning should come on when you start the truck, and then stop after about 10 seconds whether you fasten the seatbelt or not. Did it ever work? I am trying to figure out if your issues could be related. I'm not sure, just brain storming.

On the way!

I have one that is free to a good home (a good home being someone who can verify if it works)

Do you have a warning buzzer installed? It is a black or blue box just to the driver side of the fuse box.

Ah, thank you. So they work as replacements for the relay cover clips?

Maybe this has been covered before, but I was searching for parts at the JY and came across these clips by accident. They look very similar to the Renix relay cover clips, but were off a 1986 Ford F250 (the time era is the same). I believe they were retaining the lower dash bezel in place, but it was already disassembled when I found them. The lower tab is shorter overall, but the important measurement to the retainer lip looks the same. Unfortunately I don't have a Renix Jeep to test them on. Jeep part on the left, Ford on the right.

Those are getting hard to find. It's been 4 years since I found a really nice one.

With the knee panel in place, it's hard to see or get to it unless you have messed with it before and know exactly where it's at. Funny thing, the one in my 91 XJ is always unplugged so I can test the relays I get at the junkyard. Some more pics of the relay. It will most likely be part number 8956000636, but could be 56009324, which is the exact same part but found on the later model XJs.

Obviously not enough. I was sleeping in my truck for two nights as well, with no AC, just the windows rolled down. I think it was that combined with three days in a row working in the JYs from 0800-1600 that did me in.

That heat is no joke. I just completed a 1600 miles parts hunting trip. At the end of 3 days straight of pulling parts in the junkyards, I ended up a casualty from the heat. It took me three days to recover. I was drinking water and it wasn't enough. I guess age is catching up with me. My mind thinks I can still do it, but my body said nope.

I have this one. It has light pitting on the chrome and a couple of small scratches on the e. I think it displays better than it looks in the picture.

Ah, the Gentex177 mirrors. I run a similar mirror in my MJ. I really like the electronic self dimming feature. It is very effective when a car comes up behind you with bright headlights. There are several variations of this mirror- some have a small window and can only display one info item at a time (temp or compass). You must press a button to toggle between the two. Others have the larger "info window" like yours, and display both compass and temp at the same time. Earlier versions don't have the superfluous Chevy OnStar system buttons. And then there is the "holy grail". Some late model TJ Jeeps have a mirror with the temp/compass/electronic dimming, but also have built in dome/courtesy lights in the bottom of the mirror housing. There are other mirrors out there with built in dome/courtesy lights, but no other features. Some sources for those are late 90s-early 2000s Chevy Lumina, or some years of Chevy S10.

The lettering is faded, is that an issue?

I'm starting a parts finding trip soon and can be on the lookout. I've never removed them from a KJ, is it similar to late model XJs? Would the silver trim be from a specific trim package?

If you mean the insert that the upper stud of the hockey stick door handles engages into, here they are. They are difficult to remove from the door.