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About Minuit

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    MJ Maniac

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    Columbia, TN

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  1. My first thought was primer over a rust repair.
  2. I have one as well. I want to say it's plastic welded in a few places, but it's been a while since I had it off. I've definitely seen a couple that are coming loose in places, so I could see it being glued on too. The Wagoneer and Briarwood dash bezels were made in the same way. Later on for the Country model they started applying the woodgrain coating directly to the bezel.
  3. Looks about right for Chrysler Flame Red. Looks familiar Floors look good. Nice work.
  4. Minuit

    Is it just me.......

    Come to think of it, I haven't gotten as many calls these past couple of weeks. Still get them, just not as much. I don't answer my phone unless I know the number, am expecting a call from someone I don't know (rare), or the person leaves a voicemail, in which case it's usually someone I know calling from a different number anyway. The spam callers ruined it for everyone.
  5. My bench had 140k of wear on it (and I was a pretty chunky fella when I first got my MJ) but something about it made my butt really hurt after about 30 minutes of driving. Once I started routinely making drives of an hour or more in it, the bench had to go. At first I thought I'd use it as a couch in the garage, but I needed the space it took up. So now it's covered up in the attic in case I ever want to put it back in.
  6. Buckets, by miles. Especially the side support the full-bolster buckets offer, but that's a tradeoff for much less durable fabric (in my experience).
  7. Ditto what Pete said. The enemy lies on the inside, not necessarily the outside. Here's how I'd go about it. In fact, this is exactly what I will do on my 89 when it comes time to re-floor it and do an actual good job on rust removal. The only type of rust preventative products that I can 100% vouch for are oil-based and wax-based coatings. Krown and Fluid Film are two well known brands. DO NOT under any circumstances use a rubberized undercoating like the factory material. That was applied to a clean, brand new frame at the factory. Otherwise, that stuff will do nothing but seal in moisture, dirt, and rust. By the time you see rust on a Ziebarted vehicle, it is much too late. Fluid Film and Krown are transparent - if there is rust underneath them, you can see it. They do not tend to seal in rust, and if applied over rust they tend to prevent it from spreading. Just spraying or brushing stuff on top of rust is not a solution. The entire inside of the vehicle needs to be looked at. If original paint is present on the floorboards, that can be used as a map for where to focus your efforts. If it's been painted or POR-15'd over in the past, the whole floor needs to be wire wheeled back to bare metal to find the rust. This means looking on the inside, not just at what can be seen at the surface level, and yes, I mean looking inside of the uniframe too. A big hotbed for rust is the angled brace just inside of the door openings. This piece must be removed and the area underneath checked for any signs of rust. Any rust needs to be dealt with and that panel needs to be welded back on. After that, fluid film on the inside of it. Anything less is a half measure. You're fighting a war against rust, and it must be stamped out at its source and prevented from returning at any cost. A borescope camera is a big help in looking inside of the frame without cutting it open. They make ones small enough where all you need is a 1/2" hole to look inside. When you have the work done, have them shoot Fluid Film, Krown, or an equivalent - NOT ZIEBART OR ANY OTHER "RUBBERIZED" PRODUCT - into the crevices in the rockers, cab corners, etc. It's not uncommon in the northern states to drill holes into the rockers and other hollow panels to get more coverage. As much as I hate drilling holes in MJs, this might be a path worth pursuing. The holes are typically plugged with removable rubber plugs, and every year the spray is reapplied to the inside of the body. They make special nozzles for spray guns that allow for full coverage to the inside of a hollow panel. This should be done after any rust is taken care of. The interior must be waterproofed. That means everything. That means someone who knows where to look needs to be inside the truck with no interior installed looking for any possible water intrusion while someone else blasts the hell out of the truck with high pressure spray. The foam firewall gaskets are a big leak point. They must be cut from a suitable foam stock. The OEM ones aren't available anymore, don't even try. The hood seal cannot be relied on to provide a full seal, and thanks to the design of the firewall, water will drain right past several potential leak paths. To name a couple, the bulkhead connector below the brake booster, the antenna grommet (this is a big one and both of my MJs have had severe water leaks from there), and the foam gasket between the HVAC box and the firewall at the blower motor. Naturally, a similar process should be followed on the underbody of the truck. Where paint is still intact, fluid film once a year. Any surface rust needs to be dealt with. Sand to bare metal, prime, and paint. Then fluid film once a year. A related but overlooked thing is chassis lubrication. I'm not talking about grease fittings here. All hinges and points of metal-on-metal moving contact need to be lubricated to prevent rust from starting. I like white lithium grease for this. If you look at the door hinges, tailgate hinges, and similar on any of my vehicles, you'll see white grease on any point of contact. I try to do this every couple of oil changes. It's not an easy job, but if you want your truck to last another 30 years without rusting, you have to do it the hard way. Wanna know why so many rust repairs last a couple of years before the truck looks like a rusty POS again? They don't do it the hard way. I would not trust the garden variety mechanic with any of this. You need a guy with experience in rust repair and prevention that lasts. Familiarity with the MJ platform and its common rust points is a bonus.
  8. Rebuilding a transfer case would be much easier than rebuilding an automatic transmission, and if you're going to learn to rebuild a drivetrain component, that's what I would start off with. Just make sure you have a copy of either a rebuild manual for the exact model of transfer case you have or better yet, an FSM that includes this. That'll include important stuff like torque specs and any special instructions that need to be followed.
  9. Socially Distanced Edition! I fixed my "death" wobble again, sort of! ('89) The solution was, as was kinda expected, to swap the tires from the '91 on to it. Ever since having some new wheels put on it (with known out-of-round tires, so I should've known what I was getting myself into), the death wobble suddenly came back with a vengeance. This is a little bit different death wobble, though - the steering doesn't shake back and forth and it's much easier to pull out of than normal death wobble. After arguing with the shop tech that my worn out steering stabilizer and "loose" (freshly adjusted per FSM guidelines and one of the tightest Saginaw boxes I've driven with) steering box had nothing to do with it and the tires were the only thing that had changed proved futile, I decided to rob the front tires off of my other truck. Wobble gone! This may accelerate my plans of putting some 16" wheels on the silver truck. The Michelins on it now are more than halfway worn down and starting to get a little old, so it's a little bit justified. Also on the 89, I replaced the ignition switch with one that came with the truck when I bought it. The Overloaded Brown Wire (tm) circuit that feeds the blower, windshield wipers, and other accessories showed some heat checking on the connector, so when I do the interior refresh I'll be getting a new connector body for that. Accessory function is now much better, but the volt gauge is still a lying sack of $#!&. I also replaced the oil filter adapter o-rings to slow down the ridiculous oil leak this engine has. My new engine plans have been delayed, so I'm doing what I can to keep this engine going for a little bit longer. Thanks @Knucklehead97 - the o-rings you provided were a perfect fit. I might even drive it to work one day next week, just for $#!&s and giggles.
  10. Related, but unrelated: I had suspicions that I had a leaky wheel seal too. Every now and then I'd have a black drip under my right rear wheel. I found out not long after that it was actually the 3 year old wheel cylinder puking its guts out, which turned black after mixing with brake dust. The very next day I went to the junkyard and came back with a full ZJ rear disc setup. I guess I better get after it with my D44 build if you're that far ahead of me Greg We are doing literally identical projects, after all.
  11. Hearing more and more about people I know getting laid off or furloughed. More than anything else, I think a lot of people are about to be in for a harsh lesson in the importance of a 6-month emergency fund.
  12. YJs also had CAD on the front axles. That's the only thing that has that shape I can think of.
  13. Sometimes, the gear tooth counts work out that way. For all intents and purposes, they are the same. For what it's worth, 39 divided by 11 equals 3.5454545454... repeating forever. 46 divided by 13 equals 3.53846 and so on. That's a 0.19%, or just under a fifth of one percent difference. The factory didn't think that was enough of a difference to matter, and neither should you. Run them together without worry.
  14. If it was a factory limited slip, if the axle has more than 75k or so the clutches are worn and the limited slip is probably barely, if at all, functional. The trac-lok can be rebuilt, but there are better maintenance-free options out there. There are a number of ways to tell if it really is a limited slip.
  15. As far as I understand it, the reason for keeping liquor stores open is so that people who depend on the stuff don't die of withdrawal while things are shut down. Not an alcoholic, so
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