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Everything posted by Minuit

  1. That is a known issue on the Renix and early HO 4.0L engines. My 91 has seeped oil out of there as long as I can remember. There was an updated head gasket released in roughly 1993 that corrected the issue with silicone sealing beads in the gasket along the oil return paths. Any aftermarket head gasket should have this feature built in. Almost every Renix and early HO 4.0 I've seen seeps at least a small amount of oil from that area. Your head isn't warped, it's just a design flaw in the gasket. A new head gasket would fix it, but is it worth it to you to pull the engine apart just for this leak? I want to say there is a TSB out there for this issue. In it, they recommended simply replacing the head gasket with the updated version. It looks scary, but it's not a "bad head gasket" in the conventional sense, and if the leak is not severe you will not hurt anything by ignoring it. You can do a leakdown test and coolant test to confirm if it makes you feel better.
  2. The top priority should be keeping the paint out of the sun. Everything else has managed for 30 years and will probably continue to manage, but that old clearcoat will fall off by the day if you park it in the sun all day. How do I know? My truck had near perfect clearcoat 8 years ago. You may want to invest in a dash cover to prevent the dash from being exposed to direct sunlight and cracking. The best solution would be to park it under a carport or garage. Keep it out of the rain as much as you can too, MJs are rarely waterproof anymore.
  3. If you happen to find a company, I have a selection of undamaged seat covers I could provide for use as patterns.
  4. I hate the way a large lift, huge tires, and oversized wheels look on an MJ, but those things are reversible. You could put the truck back to stock in a weekend if you keep the original parts. Until the very moment you take a cutting tool to the fenders. At that point, any pretense of originality is gone. I have a couple of rules with my 91 (which has never been sold and has been in the family since brand new, so there may be a small amount of sentimental attachment here), but the Prime Directive for me is that everything I do must be able to be reverted to absolute bone stock with just nuts and bolts. To that end, I still have my original bench seat, my original non-tilt, column shift steering column, even the original wheels... you get the point - I kept all of my original parts when I did things that would increase my enjoyment of my truck. If there's something I want to do that can't be done without a permanent alteration, I don't do it. People's minds change. I really like my bucket seats and center console, but what if one day I don't anymore? If I suddenly took leave of my senses and decided I'd rather have the bench seat back in my truck, where am I gonna find a pristine, rip-free '91-'92 grey bench seat that they may have made 10,000 of ever? In my attic, that's where. When I convert it to 4WD, I'll be keeping those original parts too. What's a 2WD AW4 that shifts literally like brand new worth? A hundred bucks because they never blow up? I don't need the money that bad. The ability to put my truck back to how it was with the exact transmission it left the factory with is worth much more than $100 to me, even if I never feel a need to do it. If there's something you don't like about your truck, by all means, change it, but I would encourage you to do the same as I do. Don't make any truly permanent alterations, because in stock form you have a truck that really will be worth something some day. People say that all the time, but it really is true for yours. From what we've been able to tell, that thing has hardly been touched since day one. Don't feel obligated to keep your truck completely original to please a bunch of keyboard warriors most of whom you'll never meet, but do keep in mind that it's only original once. I bought my '89 because of the above rule. When I bought it it had a knock, got death wobble, and I drove it home at 50 with no dashboard installed. By any reasonable account it should've gone to the junkyard rather than my driveway. It has precisely no original removable body panels left. None of the original interior is remaining. Soon it won't have its original engine either (and in a great contrast to what I wrote above, the original engine is going to be unceremoniously dumped at the scrapper's when I'm done with it). One day it's going to be something worth owning, but I won't have to build it as if I'm walking on eggshells.There is no originality or "sanctity of togetherness" with it, because that was destroyed by multiple previous owners a long time ago. I don't mean to make you feel like you're in a lecture hall, but I just wanted to put some words out there hoping to help you make a decision that's right for you. Long wall of text, but I hope it helps. I just bought a really nice mechanical keyboard so I may be even wordier than normal
  5. Everyone else has made good points. Speedo cable: if the cable is not physically damaged, remove it from the truck and remove the inner cable from the outer sheath. Clean it up and apply some white lithium grease and put it all back together. Make sure the cable is correctly routed. It should be clipped to the driver side upper control arm bolt on the frame side. If that clip is not there, it needs to be there. Headlights: A headlight harness of some type should be considered mandatory at this point. It might make your headlights a little brighter, but the real advantage is safety - there's no longer full headlight current passing inside the truck. If your electrical system is in poor shape (and if you have any doubts, it is) the headlight switches have been known to catch fire. I strongly recommend some type of "not sealed beam" headlight as well. I'm partial to H4/9003 bulbs in Hella housings, but there are lots of good options out there. HVAC vents not working: 99.95% chance this is actually a vacuum leak. Next time it happens, feel for air coming out of the top of the dash. If so, it's a vacuum leak. The leak could be anywhere in the HVAC vacuum circuit, but a good first place to check is the big plastic line running up the passenger side inner fender, as well as the connections at the reservoir. While we're on the topic, I want to talk about another potential MJ fire hazard. The blower motor switch. Yet another sad tale of full accessory current being passed through a switch. Over time, the blower motor can develop friction in its bearings. Thanks to this resistance, the blower motor draws more current than designed, but not enough to blow the fuse. If it gets bad enough, this excessive current draw can cause the fan speed switch and the connector on the back of it to get hot enough to start melting. Let this go on for long enough and your truck burns down. I've seen this happen enough that I recommend preemptively replacing the blower motor and inspecting the fan speed switch connector for any signs of heat damage. Clean the contacts for the switch connector while you're in there. This is a high current circuit anyway, so it's very important to have low resistance at all of the connections.
  6. Everything. I used to have a big list, but I've replaced it with the above. There are certain things that I will grab 100% of the time without even needing to think about it. Electronics are a big one - Radios and radio accessories are an obvious one because of my particular specialty, but not just radios. Clocks, overhead console modules, Renix cruise control stuff if I ever find it. I have a bag of special test harnesses I made to test most electronic things in Jeeps of this period in the junkyard. Seat upholstery is probably the most recent addition to that list - from now on, I will skin any wingback XJ bucket seat I come across that is not torn regardless of fabric or color as long as I know the junkyard won't yell at me for doing it. If not, I'll buy the whole seat and tear it apart at home. If I can't use it, someone else will appreciate it.
  7. Left side of the driver seat and right side of the passenger seat. Near the base of the back rest. Right up against the B-pillar trim.
  8. Where is the hole? This style of upholstery is shared with the Cherokee Laredo and Country from 1989 through 1994. The bottom covers can be freely swapped between the passenger and driver seats, so a passenger seat out of an XJ is an ideal donor for a factory original cover. The seatback covers from a 4-door XJ can also be modified to fit, and with a little effort, a passenger side seatback cover can be modified to be put on a driver seat (the hole for the recline lever will need to be patched and made on the other side) Starting in I think 1992, there were no longer seat belt loops on the cushion covers, but that is the only difference that cannot be overcome. A cushion cover from a 4-door XJ can be modified to fit a 2-door XJ or MJ seat.
  9. The "vent" position opens the fresh air door in the heater box, allowing the outside air to mix with the inside air once the truck is shut down. Any position except MAX A/C or OFF (which also closes the fresh air door) should have the same effect.
  10. The flag mirrors were the base option. A driver door mirror was standard, passenger side optional. The "towing" mirrors were also an option. Those are the ones that also bolt about midway down the door. The regular mirrors that are mounted in the corner of the door were available in totally manual "push the glass to move it," remote (with joysticks inside the cab), and power operated flavors. I do not know if MJs were ever offered with power mirrors. Those are the factory options. I'm sure there were dealer offered kits to install other types of mirrors that won't appear in the factory parts manuals.
  11. If it's going to be anything like last year, I'm in.
  12. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen a Renix era dash gauge go bad. On my blue cluster, I had two bad gauges. Will see what I can come up with on your radio wiring. Would have been a lot easier if you would've used an adapter.
  13. Hey, if you ever decide to make the switch on your XJ... hint hint.
  14. This is the best we could do. A little more fell afterwards, but it wasn't even enough to cover all of the grass. Started melting pretty much right away.
  15. How much stereo system are we talking here?
  16. I use KiCAD for all of my circuit-related work. It's a "proper" electronics CAD package, and free as well. For simple wiring diagrams like you'd see on a vehicle, the nice thing is that you can add annotations and stuff right to the schematic in the editor, and it has a lot of pre made schematic symbols so you don't need to draw those either (you can also download them or make your own). You can also take that schematic and export it directly into a printed circuit board editor.
  17. That's an 87-90 style. You're good to go.
  18. 1987 through 1990 clusters use the "nylon" style of speedometer cable connection. If yours is truly from an 88, then it will be plug and play after installing the senders. The problem comes when trying to swap an 84-86 cluster into an 87-90 vehicle or vice versa.
  19. The sense of adventure is the best part of it. You never know what you're going to find these days. I built one truck out of junkyard parts, and I'm working on another. These days I've seen almost everything, but when I was a kid the adventure used to be so much better. The shiny paint on my truck and the tires date this picture to early 2014. The inventory actually went about a quarter mile or so behind the camera. That's a yard about 30 minutes from my house. The owner passed on a couple of years ago and the new owners are no where near as chill. Apparently you now have to be escorted to enter the yard, and the prices haven't come down any either.
  20. I think I recall the later (97+?) version of this being made of a more sturdy material, and I almost think I remember them being still available at some point.
  21. Ok folks, this is a big one. I am seeking a good condition pair of the following seats, Charcoal color only, this style only. These are standard on 1988 through 1992 XJ Limited (possibly optional on some years of Laredo), and optional on 1993 and 1994 XJ Country. I will pay handsomely for the right example in the right condition in the right place. Seats from ZJs and later model XJs may look similar, but they aren't what I need. I do not need the frames, foam, or power bases - only the upholstery. I can show you how to disassemble the seats. If you are willing to remove the covers from the seats and ship only the covers, I will pay you what you wanted for the complete seat plus any extra for your time to remove the covers. I would rather pay shipping than drive long distance for these. To my knowledge, these were largely only offered in 4 door XJs, and that is fine. Part numbers exist for the two door seats, but I've never seen them in person. I do not necessarily need a driver and a passenger set. Two passenger sides is ok, as is two driver sides (unlikely as it may be). I don't care, as long as the upholstery is in good shape. As of right now, I need to assemble the full set of upholstery. That's two backrest covers, two butt cushion covers, and two headrest covers. I'm open to trades as well. I have a lot of stuff, including some rare stuff. The better the condition, the more I'm willing to pay you. Some wear is ok up to a point, but there can not be any tears. If you have a complete seat, I do not care about anything except the condition of the upholstery. Even better if the cushions are collapsed and very uncomfortable, as long as the leather is ok. I am willing to be patient on this. I've been waiting for six years for the right set to appear so far, so a little more can't hurt.
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