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Everything posted by Minuit

  1. Gauge cluster is not correct for the year and would have required replacement of the speedometer cable to make work, so this one may have been "optioned up" a bit. Not necessarily a bad thing, but something to know about. The seat fabric, color keyed dash bezel, and radio are all correct for that year though.
  2. Our trucks predate the brake-shifter interlock becoming a common feature by quite a while
  3. If you do get a regulator from the junkyard, make sure you clean and lubricate it to prevent this from happening again. You can convert to power windows too if you add the appropriate wiring. The glass does not have to be replaced.
  4. This is a more common problem with the smaller later drum brakes in my experience, but another common cause of a grinding noise is the adjuster lever. It can slip off of the ratchet wheel and make contact with the braking surface of the drum.
  5. I seem to remember a distinct difference between 91 and 96 warning light arrangements. Everything still works out - the check engine light is still the check engine light although it may be a different color or in a different place, etc., but some have been changed.
  6. I did a test on this a while back. Reversing wires will not make it correct in any configuration. I'll see if I can find the post later today.
  7. It is quite possible that the lcd backlight bulbs on the one radio are burnt out. If the wiring checks out and speakers are present, all it can be is the radio.
  8. This looks like the "deep dish" wheel that was used on the other Jeeps. If you put this on an MJ you may find that the wheel rim sticks out way too far.
  9. Do it right with proper equipment or don't do it at all. A/C is not a system to be trifled with using that extremely basic kit. You can cause serious harm to yourself or very expensive damage to your truck by making mistakes here. You'll need, at a bare minimum, a set of manifold gauges, a vacuum pump, and a scale to weigh the amount of refrigerant you've put into the system. You should also replace the receiver-drier if you have not already done so. To prevent moisture entering the system from causing corrosion, it must be replaced any time the system is opened for any significant amount of time. Other items that are nice to have are an assortment of A/C o-rings and a bottle of the appropriate refrigerant lubricant, which in your case would be mineral oil. You should also be aware that R-12a is a flammable gas mixture and take appropriate precautions. That kit only comes with one adapter, but it looks like a standard R-12 to R-134a adapter. You would also need the one for the high side to use a set of standard manifold gauges.
  10. The XJ shaft is actually used as an upgrade in some other vehicle. The exact one eludes me now, but I think it's used to eliminate a rag joint. The XJ shaft I'm thinking of has u-joints at both ends and an injected plastic crash structure which breaks to allow the shaft to collapse. Mine had the tiniest little bit of play in one of the u-joints that could be felt but not seen. I replaced it with the Crown part when I installed my ZJ steering box (which itself is going to have to come out again at some point) and it's providing good service. Be warned, the shaft does not collapse easily - it's only intended to collapse under crash forces. This makes it a major PITA to install.
  11. Minuit

    rustiest MJ

    Bet the owner is an interesting fella. The people that drive heavily rusted, stickered trucks usually are.
  12. Those are good numbers. What did the old water pump look like?
  13. I have a 96 full cluster in my 91. It will make things extremely easy if you ever want to use the UK market 125mph speedometer.
  14. Hayden 678 is a very nice piece. I have mine plumbed in after the radiator.
  15. Yeah. The locks will work fine without power. Remove the actuators from the doors if you want them to work a little more smoothly manually.
  16. The only "red" cluster is the 1988-1990 (cable speedo.) and 1991-1996 (electronic speedo.) full cluster. All other clusters have the "blue" face, including: - All 1984-1986 clusters - 1987 full clusters, which are unique - All 1987-1990 and 1991-1996 base clusters - 1987-1990 "3/4" clusters with all gauges except the tachometer - 1991-1996 "certified calibration" police clusters
  17. First off, are you hearing noise from the rear of the truck?
  18. Minuit

    Tool Talk

    I use uBlock Origin on anything it's available on. Never see ads.
  19. The later ones (95,96 I think) have a different font if it matters to you.
  20. Minuit

    College Vehicle

    I alternated between my MJ and a very much in-disrepair '96 Thunderbird for my broke college years and did just fine. The MJ for moving my stuff and the T-bird, in less disrepair these days, for the 4 hours a week home and back. I can count on one hand the number of times I moved other people's stuff. Only my friends even knew what I drove because I walked everywhere. If I didn't feel like helping, I just told 'em no. Your results may vary. What schools are you looking at?
  21. I'm also pretty sure that the stud is part of the fender, either pressed or tacked into it from the other side. Sadly, finding a fender in that color is going to be next to impossible. I'd use the threaded insert tool. They're useful for all kinds of things too, so you'll find something else to use it for.
  22. The factory parking brake mechanisms suffer from a design flaw (my guess is improperly hardened ratchet teeth) that basically means EVERY MJ parking brake mechanism will do this eventually. This was the subject of a recall for 1986 models, but it's present in all of them. You can refinish the teeth and add stronger springs, but my guess is that it's probably going to happen again. I'll be converting my 89 to a hand parking brake for exactly this reason. No way I can trust them again after seeing pictures of some of the worn teeth.
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