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Everything posted by Minuit

  1. 87s and 88s had plaid instead of tweed if that's your thing.
  2. If you like classic cars, especially the less well known stuff, you've gotta check this guy out:
  3. Then it's probably a later model bracket not intended for that radio. Either that, or the very early radios used something other than the typical removable brackets. Typical AMC wiring colors: Grey - power antenna, 12V when radio is on Purple w/stripe - IGN switched Black - Ground Orange w/stripe - Panel lamps, 12v with dimmer Pink - Battery, your radio may not have this Blue - Display dimmer toggle, your radio may not have this Green/stripe - LR+ Green - LF+ White/stripe - RR+ White - RF+ Black - Left -, shared between front and rear Black/stripe - Right -, shared between front and rear
  4. Yeah, I definitely want a pair, but I'll wait for another option for housings. I don't want to butcher my originals.
  5. That looks like the right mounting bracket the radio is sitting on, at least from what I can tell. The tabs on the bottom are all wrong for a Comanche though. Probably came in an Eagle or Renault but can be made to work.
  6. That could've come in an '84 or '85 Cherokee, so the plugs are different than any Comanche if still original. I can give you some guidance on the wiring.
  7. That looks really nice. I think you made a great choice going with the original wheels and as close to OE tires as possible. Suits the look of the truck well.
  8. Even easier - brown button labels: bad. White button labels: good. I can't really tell in this picture, but it looks like one of the good ones. While I cannot add an AUX for you at this time, I can help you with a DIY solution if you know what you're doing.
  9. The auto-reverse on this model is finicky at best, a total disaster at worst. This isn't uncommon, and if you're having auto reverse flip-flop problems on any of the Mitsubishi-made 88-96 decks, that is pretty much the end of that tape module's useful life.
  10. Minuit

    Well, damn....

    While I have my thoughts on being forced to do things by Big Gummit, I think not getting the shot is strongly ill-advised and I'm not at all ashamed of saying it. I can't believe this has become a political issue. Yeah, the shot probably won't prevent you from contracting it in the first place. Yeah, I felt like $#!& the day after I got my second shot and my booster. 85% of people who end up in the hospital with Covid aren't vaccinated. Why are people listening to Facebook and "politicians" instead of doctors? For the sake of polite conversation, that's where I'll stop.
  11. That's a very unusual part number. Can you post pictures?
  12. Love me some Griot's stuff. Looking forward to seeing it complete!
  13. Almost nobody gets it right. That's the easiest give-away of a repaint.
  14. I ended up watching several of your videos and I quite enjoyed all of them. Damn, you guys are the real deal! Keep us posted!
  15. Almost all, if not all, of the SCs were red, 2WD, with black vinyl bucket seats and a full center console, a 4.0L engine and a BA-10/5 5-speed transmission, so they were actually pretty well optioned. Not sure if they all have the exact options as one another, but this one appears to have A/C equipped.
  16. Thank you for the kind words, and I am glad you are finding motivation in this Noted. I will try to include as many therapeutic things as possible. It needs a few spots of paint touch-up (genuine Volvo touch-up paint ordered), a full paint decontamination, and paint correction as there's swirl marks EVERYWHERE. I know there's some therapy value in that for me. A few years ago, owning any Euro car would never have crossed my mind. So far, I've been very impressed with the level of engineering on display. Don't know if I'd be ready for a BMW or Mercedes just yet. I feel like it's very beneficial to adopt a different mindset when it comes to maintenance. I think any European car will eat you for breakfast if you follow the typical "drive it till it makes a noise louder than the radio, then fix at lowest possible cost" philosophy that most people who see cars as nothing but basic transportation follow. It brings me joy to take care of my things. I think that's how I managed to spend the last 10 years driving around in 20+ year old vehicles without serious reliability problems. Make no mistake, I had to wade through multiple Volvos that were neglected. This one had its downsides, but critically they all fell into the category of "13 year old car stuff" and not signs of severe neglect. The official Volvo parts site seems to indicate so: But damn! I might look into getting a partial re-dye job on the bolster instead. But like you said, if there are a few NOS covers left in the system, now's the time. Let's take a moment to discuss some history of this car. I'm the fifth owner. It was produced in Ghent, Belgium on 14 November 2007, and shortly thereafter shipped to the original dealer in Birmingham, AL. It actually spent the first part of its life as a corporate vehicle in Seattle, WA, maybe as some executive's company car or something like that. The unoffensive color scheme and the high level of options would track for some mid-level exec's company ride. I was concerned at first, as this technically makes this a "northern car," but P2 Volvos are well rustproofed and my car is essentially spotless underneath. In 2012, it was sold at auction to a dealer, who sat on it for two months before selling it off again at auction to a dealer in Georgia. I don't know what people saw in this car to take it first from Alabama to Washington then back to Georgia, but it happened. Owner #2 only had it for about two years and drove it less than 7000 miles per year. At this point, the car has reached 50,000 miles. They then sell it to Owner #3 in March of 2014, who keeps it until the summer of 2018. They drive about 10,000 miles a year. Owner #4, our Sports 'n' Jesus loving friend, drives about 9,000 miles a year until trading it in some time before May of this year. They also get the oil changed... a LOT. The dealership I purchased the car from acquired it in May and sat on it until a month ago when I bought it. They did a pretty good job of cleaning it up, and probably could've sold it way sooner by doing some of the things that I've since done to it. Fun fact: only 16 miles worth of test drives were put on this car. However, they were located in a surprisingly ritzy part of town, so a 2008 Volvo might not have been the right choice for the local customer base. Their original asking price, $7700, would have been considerably out of line before the COVID madness. I paid quite a bit less than that, and I came out paying about fair market value for the car. I didn't get ripped off nor did I get a screaming deal, I did "ok" considering the market conditions. Anyway, more stuff! One of these products is quite important, and one of them is... not. The 12V plug port cover is not retained by anything and is thus quite easily lost. This is just a plastic plug, and definitely not a cigarette lighter, and the owner's manual specifically points out the fact that this car does not have an ashtray. I don't smoke, I'm good with that. I do think it's kind of funny that they went out of their way to make their car smoker-unfriendly. Installation difficulty: 0.1/10 I forgot to include this in the last update - the cupholder rubber insert was worn out, ever so slightly reducing the holding effectiveness of the cupholder. A guy sells repair kits on Ebay, and the installation is super easy - just pop the top half of the cupholder off and set the rubber in place. !!! - a new OEM shift boot costs $118. Place your bets on how long it takes for that tiny rip in the leather to annoy me enough to shell out the cash. My attempt to re-glue the mirror glass back on to its backing plate failed shamefully, and within a week the mirror was flapping around again, so I just pulled it back off. I then donated roughly a hundred bucks to FCP Euro in exchange for this. Face reveal time! Installing the mirror is very simple - it comes attached to the heating element, and just pops into and out of the housing. As a result, the only tool needed is a screwdriver to pop the old mirror out of the housing: Here you can see the heating element and the associated wires. They just slip on with quick-connects. The white plastic things are guides to keep the mirror in place. Not mann enough? GET YOU A MANN FILTER! The other thing is an airbox clip to replace the missing one. The previous air filter was just replaced, but it's beginning to come undone: I was going to spend some time screwing around figuring out how to install the new airbox clip, but I decided to come in and eat Christmas dinner instead. I'll figure this out later.
  17. I'm pleasantly surprised at the amount of interest this is seeing! Thanks for reading! I flushed the power steering reservoir again. I make that sound a lot more involved than it really was - sucking the fluid out with a Mityvac and pouring fresh CHF-11S in until what came out looked all minty and delicious instead of like old transmission fluid: It's green. It took about three suck-fill-turn wheel a few times repetitions until the fluid on the dipstick was green. I'll probably have to keep doing this since the manual lists the capacity at 0.9L, and it seems like I've used about half of the fluid. Here's another common P2 thing: the trim on the side of the seat was broken: I don't think I've installed a part that was made in China yet. Oh, sweet bliss. That yellow trim removal tool sure looks like a rip in the seat, doesn't it? A T15 in the front and a sharp tug in the back had it right off: The control switch module has an absolute ton of surface mount parts on it and seems to be way more than meets the eye. Probably has to do with the CAN bus interface - pretty much every electronic component on this car is actually a module that talks on the CAN network. That adds a lot of complication, but it also unlocks a lot of neat functional and diagnostic opportunities. You just wait til I unleash the proper Volvo "scan tool" on this thing. Anyway, it must be unplugged underneath the seat and transferred to the new trim piece. Three T25s and it's done... these Swedes really do like their Torx. Now, passengers entering my car won't have to look at a somewhat unsightly part that they probably wouldn't have noticed anyway. Ownership of a "nice" vehicle is really just a big excuse for me to go wild, and I wouldn't have it any other way. Some Detailing Content Ahead On the way home from buying it, I noted that much like the radiation levels in a small Ukranian town in 1986, the headlights were "not great, not terrible" They photograph fairly well, but in real life the headlights are starting to get fairly foggy. The pre-facelift (01-04) S60s actually have glass headlights (and headlight wipers), and the housings can be made to fit facelift cars with a relatively simple wiring modification. Some posters on here may know that I'm a big fan of E-code headlights, especially their high beams. European car.... hmmm... Nah. Plus they look kind of dopey, and I've got a night-time trip coming up on Christmas day. We need Detailing Content, and we need it fast! The lights on my car have 123k miles worth of pitting and road rash, so I'm leaving the option open in the future though. My preferred way to polish headlights is to treat them just like paint, using the full suite of polishing pads and compounds... and wetsanding in case a very aggressive cut is needed. Since the passenger side wasn't as bad, I thought I could skip the aggressive wetsanding cut... turns out I just wasted my time polishing that oxidized surface layer when I really needed to take some more material off. Since I generally treat headlights as paint and polish them in more or less the same way, time to bust out a rarely-seen member of my cast of characters: We're doing everything different in this build thread. Switching to a 3" backing plate and pad from the usual 6" unit is perfect for keeping the pad on the headlight instead of getting stuck on the bumper. First stage product: Meguiar's PlastX on a Griot's Garage orange "correcting pad" - a medium strength combo, but not really up to the task of removing the medium oxidation on this headlight. improved only slightly to: Let's move on to the other side. On headlights in this shape, I start off with 1000 grit lubricated with quick detail spray to break up the moderate oxidation. Ideally, I'd follow up with 1500 or 2000, but I don't have any at the moment. A couple of hits of Meguiar's M105 (a quite aggressive compound normally used on paint) with the orange correction pad to begin correcting the scratches from the wetsanding: We can see the optical clarity beginning to return, now without the "faded clearcoat" look on the top where the light has seen the most sun. However, M105 isn't going to get the headlight clear again, so it needs to be followed up with something lighter. In my case, that was Meguiar's M10 Clear Plastic Polish on a softer black finishing pad: After seeing this side-by-side, I immediately decided I was going to wetsand the passenger side too. But not today. Also, it goes without saying that a protectant of some type must be applied to the headlights regularly to keep them from fogging again. Also, I need an idea for a front license plate. I can't remove the front plate bracket without having holes in the bumper cover visible, so I might as well find something that isn't giving a dealership 300 miles away free advertising. While doing this, I was applying some leather conditioner to the seats, steering wheel, and the leather trimmed sections of the door panels. Overall the leather isn't in bad shape at all for the age, but the seats are feeling a little bit papery in spots, and could benefit from some lotion: Based on the condition of the seats, I'm going to guess that this car transported a front seat passenger rarely, and a back seat passenger almost never. That does make sense though - you've seen in the pics the laughable legroom this car offers in the rear. The driver seat bolster is the only area that shows any meaningful wear. Everywhere else, I think it just needs a rub down. I'll see if I notice a difference after a few applications of conditioner. I'm applying a product called Pinnacle Leather Conditioner. I don't have enough experience with it yet to know what kind of long term benefits it brings, but it is applied by massaging it into the seat with a fabric applicator pad, left to stand until it soaks into the seat, and then buffing with a microfiber towel. It's not a product I would smell for the fun of it, but it complements the natural smell of the car's interior and isn't overbearing. It smells kind of like freshly shined shoes. I was worried for a little while, because when I first applied it it left this cheap looking Armor All looking shine on the seats. Fortunately, after the product soaks in and I buffed it off, the shine went away: Did anyone really want to read this much about some dude rubbing his dead animal skin car seats?
  18. Any time I work on a vehicle with a sudden, complete loss of electrical power, the first thing I do is take both battery terminals completely off, use one of these on both the cable and battery, and re-connect. I have one of those exact Schumacher battery tools that must be 25 years old now, and it still works great. Buy a handful of them and keep one at home and one in the glove box. There must be no visible corrosion on either the battery or the cable. If the battery terminals are this kind, all bets are off: In my experience, those are absolutely terrible and you're better off lighting your money on fire unless your OEM terminal literally snapped in half and you're hours from home. I'd rather see a 30 year old OEM terminal than one of those, 99.975% of the time. The best option of all is a military style terminal with side mounted lugs: Following a cleaning of the connections at the battery, look at the starter relay. Everything is connected to the starter relay on a Renix, so those connections need to be clean too. Ditto the grounds. See what I'm getting at here? Make sure every electrical connection in your truck is clean and firmly connected. Bonus points if you apply some type of protectant to prevent future corrosion.
  19. A Bit of Mechanical Catch-Up Just because the car was pretty doesn't mean there wasn't things to do. First, the passenger side mirror was about to fall off. It spent the entire drive home flapping like crazy. This is a common problem on pretty much any car with glued-on mirror glass and heated mirrors, as far as I know. The heat cycles just eventually melt the glue. Since the OEM glass is roughly $100, I figured I'd try some epoxy. It's already flapping again. Ok Volvo, fine, I'll buy the OEM part. I could've guessed that this car wouldn't be tolerant of hackjobs. The half-working turn signal switch wasn't going to fly. Fortunately, it might be the second easiest turn signal lever change ever, second only to our MJs without cruise control. Three screws and the steering column clamshells open like this: Afterwards, the switch pulls straight out. Unlike our trucks, the lever actually contains the switches on this car. Installation is the reverse of removal: Next up, this particular S60 has an extra-thick activated charcoal cabin air filter. If I were a betting man, and I am, I'd bet that filter is way past its 1 year/15,000 mile expiration date: Ew. It's a little bit of a tight fit getting the new filter in. The previous genius to install a filter did this: My new filter was pre-cut to make installation easier: Prior to putting in the new filter, I wanted to make sure there wasn't any unpleasant surprises hiding inside the HVAC box. Fortunately not. Next up: T-T-T-TIMING BELT! The interval for replacing the belt is 10 years or 120,000 miles. I'm 3 years and 3,000 miles past that, and considering the possible consequences, I wanted to waste exactly 0 time tying up that loose end. It's sometimes considered good practice to replace the water pump while you're in there, although the factory Aisin water pump is reputed to easily last for 2 timing belt lifespans. My kit came with it, it wasn't very expensive, and I needed an excuse to change the coolant and get an eye for the condition of the cooling system, so what the hell. Step one: jack the car up and remove the right wheel? Yep, this car uses lug bolts. Fortunately, you get a generous centering ring on the hub. I don't mind the lug bolts so much - it makes it easy to clean the rotor face. More good news - the brakes are in like-new condition. The timing belt process is a largely unexciting task, and I didn't take many pictures. Including the water pump replacement, it took me just over 10 hours start to finish, and at least a third of that was screwing around trying to figure out the right way to install the new serpentine belt... I still don't own a serpentine belt tool. Maybe I should. With a serpentine belt tool and knowing what I know now, I think I could do another one in an afternoon easy. If you really want to know exactly what I did, here's a video: Timing marks replicated on the top of the timing cover: I don't have the special VVT hub holding tools either, so I had to take special care to ensure nothing moved as I wrapped the belt around the intake camshaft, the tensioner, idler, water pump, and then manually extended the tensioner to get the belt around the exhaust camshaft. How many times did I have to start over? At least 1. At least. Here's the coolant. It looks even more delicious than usual. Absolutely no smell to my nose, oddly enough. Better get used to measuring fluids in liters. Some time later, a running engine! Gotta finish off the job in the official way: By the way, any Renix lovers recognize this? With the timing belt sorted, it was on to slightly less urgent things. For instance, the gas cap whose tether had literally turned to dust: Ew. I wonder which number is bigger: the number of countries that supplied at least one part for this car, or the number that didn't? And then it was time for some delicious Genuine Accessories! Damn, that's a satisfying fit. Next, it was time for some fluid changes. Pep Boys was the last to sink their claws into this car, changing a battery, oil, and air filter in the couple of years before I got the car. Let's see how many bolts are left in the splash guard? I guess 4 out of 7 ain't bad for a Pep Boys. Two of the mounting points are missing entirely. Frankly, I'm surprised the guard was there in the first place. An OEM replacement is still available and not even that expensive, so I'll probably replace this at some point for no other reason than to satisfy my OCD. As soon as the splash guard came off, there were obvious signs of a leak from the drain bolt. It has a crush washer that's supposed to be replaced with every oil change. I wonder if I took off the original, or at least the one the dealer put on the last time this got a dealer oil change. Good thing this part number works for the transmission, because I accidentally bought three... two in another order, and one in the order with my oil and filter I'm used to spin-on filters, so this oil filter took a little figuring out... and the realization that I needed to buy an 86mm, 16 point socket for it. The number of channel-lock marks made it clear that my precursors didn't care so much. (in this picture, I still haven't realized I need to take the element back out, lubricate it, and push it on further for the assembly to actually fit back onto the engine) I took this opportunity to change the oil fill cap gasket, which crumbled the second I touched it. Here's our oil for this change. The engine ended up taking just under 6 liters, with an extra liter left over for topping off. That's more than a 4.0. Damn! I immediately noticed that the engine sounded happier on this expensive synthetic oil, as it damn well better should. Previously I noticed a very faint tap sound once the engine warmed up, which seems to have disappeared entirely. Add this to the list of engines I have personally experienced having a preference for synthetic oil. The other being the also-DOHC Cadillac Northstar. Just like the vast majority of our Jeeps, the transmission is an Aisin-Warner unit, the AW55-50SN. Unlike the AW4 and AX-15, this one might not be considered among their greatest hits for reasons that aren't entirely its fault. In the earlier years, that was mostly down to servo covers and programming, but all of them have their useful life cut down by "lifetime fill" JWS-3309 transmission fluid that's extremely expensive ($15 or more per liter! - you need 12-16 for a complete exchange) from the Volvo dealer. And here we have the biggest automotive lie of the modern era. Guess what it really is? Toyota Type IV. Which, being typical ATF red, might be the only conventionally colored fluid in this car. The oil literally looked like maple syrup. Here's what came off my dipstick: Let's capture some of that as it drains: Yeah, it's time. Oddly enough, this car got a transmission fluid change at 10,000 miles according to the Carfax. Sadly, changing the transmission fluid is not exactly for the faint of heart on this car. Let's start off by discussing the fill location, aka the dipstick tube. That's about 3 feet down the engine bay. You need two funnels to add fluid, one tiny one to make the (small) dipstick hole usable, and a super long one to actually reach. Of course, you have to pour very slowly to prevent spills and take everything out to actually check the fluid. This took forever. And guess what, that's just the first of 3 spill-and-fills! While I was taking a break in between quarts of transmission fluid, I changed the top engine mount. While I was doing the timing belt, I discovered mine had completely separated. Oops. Easy peasy to change, though - just remove 2 bolts from the intercooler hose, the ignition coil cover, and the strut tower brace and it's yours. Is supposed to look like this: I also was noticing a very slight groan noise from the power steering on very-cold start only. I found it brown and slightly low, so I sucked out the power steering fluid and replaced it. Just imagine me pouring some green (yep) hydraulic fluid into a black reservoir. The factory specifies the same green CHF-11S fluid I used, so I imagine it got replaced with the wrong stuff at some point. I've also decided to centralize my maintenance logs somewhere portable - in this case, a phone app called Simply Auto. Previously, I used clipboards and paper, but that was just... clunky, which led to me not doing it after a while. It keeps track of fuel costs and economy, as well as recurring maintenance with reminders for both time and mileage. I can also add non-recurring maintenance such as the turn signal switch. I'll leave you with this card I found in the glove box when I bought the car... I bought the car from a dealership and it was the only thing in there besides the owner's manual, so I assume this was addressed from the previous owner to me! I shall go and conquer the world in your honor, my poor MPG-getting, sports and Jesus loving friend.
  20. Minuit


    That magic California fairy dust is expensive these days. Too bad if someone gets theirs stolen and can't pay to replace it.
  21. It strikes a nice balance between comfort and fun to drive. It's not sporty like a BMW, but not floaty like a Buick either. And it's not extremely fast (although it'll easily embarrass an MJ or my Thunderbird), but it's got torque whenever you want it and the turbo is just noticeable enough to be pretty fun. I also got 30.1 mpg without even really trying on my first tank driving to work and back... and that's essentially keeping up with the 80mph flow of traffic in the morning and stop-and-go in the afternoon. I haven't done any detailing yet besides that first wash. I have done the timing belt and a couple of small things so far though. I'll do a few more things before I post another real update.
  22. If it's not gone soon, it's going on FB and/or the side of the road with a for sale sign on it.
  23. Damn, that looks sharp. The one on my 91 is a little scabby looking. Might just send it to you one day.
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