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mjeff87

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About mjeff87

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    MJ Maniac

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    Richmond, VA (or Pittsburgh, PA)

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  1. mjeff87

    WJ issues

    Did you ever overheat the engine? That's what usually leads to the seats dropping. Could very well just be a fallen rocker or 2. There's really nothing holding them except for pressure from the lash adjusters. Not a hard fix to pop them back into place, but a crapload of stuff to take off so you can actually get the valve cover(s) off to get to them. Stupid engine design.....
  2. Yeah, they are numbered (1-4) and have a directional arrow stamped into them.
  3. Probably...not, I dunno. I just grabbed them in case any of mine are cracked (they all look good in place, I'll know better when I take them off). They are just a solid chunk of aluminum, there's no bearing shell inside them. I don't think they are a fit-to-order part, because the bottom half is actually machined into the head itself. I do have a tube of engine assembly lube I'm going to seat the "new" cam in with. I suppose I could plastigauge the bearings to check clearances, but I don't know what the correct tolerance is....
  4. Well, I missed my mark of getting this pig running by thanksgiving, but I'm making steady progress. I grabbed a camshaft (and bearing caps) off of a cherry '03 KJ in the junkyard last weekend and also picked up a new cam gear from my parts place for $35. Had to wrench on the focus this morning and afterward started tearing the KJ engine back down. The timing chains are still perfectly in time, but the passenger side cam slipped that dowel pin like I suspected. I was going to pull off the front timing cover again (still might) because the moment I unbolt that cam gear and the chain slacks, the tensioner inside is going to spring and there's no way to reset it without pulling the timing cover off and pulling the tensioner out. I'm trying an experiment.....I just ordered a nylon timing chain wedge off the internet that you use to jam down inside the head to keep tension on the chain (to prevent the tensioner from popping), should be here in a couple days. If it works like advertised, I should be able to insert it, take the gear off the cam, swap cams, and rebolt the gear without the tensioner popping. If it doesn't work, I'll just have to pull the timing cover and reset the tensioner....just a couple extra hours of work. The wedge tool was only $17.99, so I'm willing to give it a try. With any luck, I should have it running again next weekend.
  5. mjeff87

    WJ issues

    Cam sensor, if I had to guess. If the 4.7 is the same as the 3.7, it bolts into the bottom front of the passenger side head. It's a Hall effect sensor, like the CPS, and there's a tone ring on the cam timing gear that controls spark.
  6. mjeff87

    WJ issues

    P0353 and multiple misfires would make me suspect a cam (or crank) sensor.
  7. mjeff87

    epic recovery

    ^^^nice. I was operator on our old M543 wrecker in my company back in the day. The one and only time my rig broke down, I got towed by a HEMTT.
  8. Yeah, I guess....but we're not most people Got the line swapped out today. Not too bad of a job, but one I'm not fond of doing again anytime soon. Had a heck of a time getting the pump/system bled afterward, took about 30 minutes until I got all the air out of the system. But, nothing is leaking now, lol. Got all that done, then putzed around with the KJ a bit. Got the whole engine stripped except for the front timing cover. Orileys had the correct sized puller I need for the harmonic balancer but it was rented out when I went to get it. Got one from Autism-zone but it's too big to fit and I quit trying to make it work after 30 minutes or so. I might get to it tomorrow, but my wife and I are meeting friends for lunch an hour away and then we're all going to the range to kill some paper. We picked up a new pair of 9mm's (for CCW) on a Black Friday sale as early Christmas presents to each other and we need to run a couple hundred rounds through them to break/sight them in. Might not have time for the KJ after all that, lol.
  9. THIS is the problem child. It's a swivel joint/flared fitting that is not separately replaceable. What a stupid design.....
  10. Lol....got my high pressure line today (a day early). Holy over-packaging Batman.. I'll swap it out Saturday, and *hopefully* fix my last leak. Then I can get back to fixing the KJ
  11. I can see all sides of this....'cause I was (kinda still am) in the same boat as you. My MJ eventually turned into a garage queen a few years ago. Part of that was the way I built it, with virtually nowhere to legally wheel it near me but I still kept it. I had my TJ to use as a DD, and used the MJ occasionally for a fun drive to work or when I needed it as a pickup. Then the TJ died and I got my KJ, which became my primary vehicle. Regrettably I sold the MJ to a good 'ol boy down here who lived further out in the county and really wanted it. I took comfort in the fact that I knew he was going to do the wheeling in it that I couldn't and built it for (and not turn around and flip it or strip all the good parts off it and junk the body). I miss it every day. Everything was going great until the KJ died and I didn't have a backup vehicle. I ended up getting my Focus that I'm driving now just to get around in while I repair the KJ and return it to DD/winter driving duty. My plan was to dump the Focus once the KJ was back online, but it was such a hassle not having a primary vehicle to drive until I got it that I'm going to just keep it now. My experience has taught me to never be stuck without a reliable backup vehicle ever again.
  12. New high pressure hose ordered off Amazon, $33......it should be here by Friday. Noone local has it in stock. I need to stop by the auto store and grab a couple quarts of power steering fluid to get me a couple of days, lol.
  13. Newp. I can't turn the fogs on without at least turning on the low beams. Once they're on, I can shut the headlights off though and the fogs still stay on. They do cut off when I switch to high beams, per federal regs. Like I said, it took me 2 years of owning it to figure that one out. Also, I do have a headlight sentry too (probably all KJ's do ). If you cut off the ignition with the headlights still on, they stay on for a minute. Another learning curve for me. I know, RTFM.
  14. Ahhhh....that's a big NOPE. Got the nylon washers, boogered up one of them installing it and had to go back and get another set. Got them both on successfully, and the damn thing is still leaking. Not as bad as before, but not sealed. It's all put back together (again), I have to go to work tomorrow. It's our office Christmas party and I'm making 20 lbs of bone-in chicken and a 10 lb ham. I've got a fresh quart of power steering fluid in the cab, should be enough to get me there and back for a few days (the leak is only a small drip every couple minutes). I need to order a new high pressure line and just replace the whole damn thing. That flared fitting has obviously failed
  15. My KJ is the same way. You have to turn on the low beams then pull the end of the stalk out to turn on the fogs. Only took me 2 years of owning it to figure that out lol. Stupid Focus....I just spent pretty much all weekend figuring out the oil leak. Turns out about half the oil pan bolts were loose (don't overlook the obvious....), which sealed up the backside leak. Thought the A/C compressor was leaking so I grabbed another one from the junkyard Saturday morning for $30. Got back home, unbolted the old one and went to swap the new one in and saw a small puddle of fluid on the garage floor. Turns out the compressor wasn't leaking after all, but the power steering pump directly above it was. So, back down to the junkyard in my wife's car to grab the pump off the same vehicle I robbed the compressor from. Got back home, spent an hour swapping pumps out and went to put it back together and the damn high pressure line was leaking from the flared fitting underneath. It was cold, getting dark and I was tired so I just put it all back together enough to get it out of the garage for the night so I could get the wife's car back in and shut the door. Today I pulled it back in (on ramps) and tore it all back apart and redid everything. It's still leaking from the POS flare fitting, but not as bad. Put it all back together again and parked it up on the street. After googling it a bit, I learned there's a .50c nylon washer that goes on the fitting that you have to replace every time you take that line off....I vaguely remember the remnants of one on the line when I took it off but didn't think too much about it at the time. My local Orileys has them in stock, so I'm taking off work tomorrow and going up to grab a pack of them. I'm taking my wife to work at 0530 so I can keep/use her car to go get them. Hopefully that will solve the problem and I'll finally have NO LEAKS.
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