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About WahooSteeler

  • Rank
    MJ Maniac

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Waynesboro, VA
  • Interests
    Sports, anything with a motor

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  1. WahooSteeler

    ISO Long Bed

    That could be a really hard find. Is the damage something that could be repaired with metal from a short bed? Finneys98XJ has a clean short bed for sale in SW VA. Check the classifieds.
  2. WahooSteeler

    Cherokee vs Comanche Blower Motor

    x3 on the TYC motor and cheap(est) alternatives. The motor housing has a hole at the 6 o'clock position for a rubber hose that connects to an opening on the firewall just below the blower housing. The blower motor essentially cools itself by collecting air from the HVAC box and directing back to the blower motor via the small rubber hose. The TYC unit and other cheapies have the hole in the 4 o'clock position and the stock "cooling" hose will not reach from there. Ask me how I know.
  3. WahooSteeler

    Cooling system failing?

    If you just replace the bottle, can't stress enough to get the Volvo cap too. Best $8-10 you can spend. I had bought a new bottle w/standard cap from Quadratec and within a few weeks the pressure would loosen the cap and it would spew coolant. Bought the Volvo cap and it hasn't leaked at the bottle since.
  4. WahooSteeler

    Anyone ever Fly and Drive?

    There you go DD! Dude, that XJ must not be from Da 'Burgh because my 4yrs living there they throw some serious salt and the pre-icing chemicals that may as well be sulphuric acid it rustifies and eats through electrical connections on vehicles so fast!
  5. WahooSteeler

    Anyone ever Fly and Drive?

    I remember now that you told me you flew in to the Eagle's Nest a long time ago, but I forgot your truck was from around here. Wow, small world! I live 5 minutes from the "airport", and the takeoff and approach path for many planes is usually right over my house. Just crazy
  6. WahooSteeler

    Anyone ever Fly and Drive?

    Do you have any friends that live in areas where you might be willing to fly to buy the truck? That way someone can go put some eyes on it before you invest in a plane ticket and realize it's something you don't want to buy or may not be reliable enough for a looong drive home. The other idea with that is to have the seller take the truck to a dealer for you and get them to look it over mechanically including a compression check. Let the dealer know up front you don't intend to do any repairs you just want a thorough "look over" before you buy it because you are out of state. I say use a dealer because IMO it's less likely the seller has a relationship with the dealer like they might with an independent shop that could influence what the shop reports back to you. I took this approach when I bought my MJ out of St Louis 10yrs ago and fortunately got a pretty decent truck. I knew some people in the area through the company I was working for at the time and they recommended a dealer to take it to. I had tons of pics from the seller and was comfortable (enough) what I was getting regarding the body and typical rust areas etc. but wanted to make sure about the drivetrain. Still some definite risk involved but the info from the dealer inspection made me comfortable enough to take a chance. I considered the "fly and drive" approach also, but taking in to consideration the cost of a plane ticket, gas, meals, possibly a hotel room if I couldn't stay awake for the 15hr drive, and the possibility of breaking down along the way (which could end up making the whole situation VERY expensive), I looked in to having it transported. Quotes were all over the place but I ended up getting it shipped from St Louis to VA for $700. By my estimates at the time, that was about $200 more than the "fly and drive" approach, which for my time, the hassle and piece of mind was well worth it. I had a budget in mind for the truck and shipping and ended up getting it for $300 less than I was willing to spend. Like I said before, still a fair amount of risk buying a vehicle this way but the #1 piece of advice I'd give for making a long distance purchase.....PATIENCE.
  7. WahooSteeler


    In addition to checking with Yellaheep, check with SaveevryJp on here, he has ton's of parts and may have the mirror delete piece.
  8. You can literally see a drip come from the crank. The oil is brand new, like 10 miles on it, hence the lighter color IMO.
  9. Got at least a good layer of grease off the block today, valve cover and around the pan and bellhousing. Laid under the truck for a good while and then took this video that, I believe, confirms the source was and still is the RMS unless there is something else in that area I am unaware of. I observed the dizzy base and oil filter adapter for several minutes two or three different times while the truck remained idling for @30mins. Valve cover stayed clean and at least where I could see where the head meets the block I didn't see anything fresh. But I need to clean the rear of the block better and observe again just to be sure. I also observed a very very minor drip at the left front corner of the pan, not sure if the tech under or over tightened it when reinstalling from the RMS job. I could see where he did a good job of cleaning the bottom of the block and they used a Felpro gasket. But, it'll be going back this week to get the RMS redone! I had just wiped clean the bell-housing before I started the video. The drip from the RMS happens about every 30 seconds, but of course that's while sitting at idle. RMS_Leak_Oct_18.mp4
  10. WahooSteeler

    3" Lift kit w/o Add a leaf

    http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/ 3" leaf packs and 3" Rough Country coils I've got a pair of the RC 3" coils I'll sell.......
  11. Jeff, followed Cruiser's logical advice of starting up high and working down when I started replacing gaskets and seals. Like I said above, I've been hesitant to clean the engine under the theory if oil is getting OUT somewhere, water and cleaners can get IN, but it's time to get it cleaned and just be patient with doing it carefully so I can identify the true source. My entire block has a couple millimeter thick coating of grease from all the years so it is probably hard to determine if that's the source. As of now my plan this weekend is to clean it the best I can and probably pro-actively replace the dizzy gasket since I can do that on my own. What about getting it steam cleaned to really get it good in all the tight and hard to reach areas?
  12. I don't have any of the symptoms of a blown head gasket, with the exception of lately I've had high temps on highway use or when I'm also running A/C. Normal stop and go w/out AC on temps are fine. But I digress. So if it's the dizzy gasket, that will be the most expensive dizzy gasket repair job ever.........when added together with my RMS replacement cost. But I'll still be happy the leak is fixed and I'm sure it was only a matter of time on the RMS. At least that's what I'm telling myself.
  13. Not trying to be a smartazz, but "What side of the vehicle is the leak on? Is the oil only showing up on the lower half of the block? The back only?", you asked so I answered. As I said in the OP, the truck has had a steady drip for years, it has 220k miles. This is not new, the entire block has a coating of oil and grease buildup from all these years. I have been hesitant to put any substantial water/soap or degreaser on the engine until I got some other things buttoned up, but that is a step I need to take now. Never thought of the distributor gasket, worth a look. My fear, of course, is the head gasket and that being another very labor intensive $$$ repair.
  14. Krypto, it hits the ground about dead center at the back of the block. Understood on running downhill, hence why I started with the valve cover and moved my way down oil filter adapter and then RMS. Just had a new oil pan gasket put on with the RMS job.
  15. If you don't go off-road much or need a true "all-terrain" tire, check out General Grabber HTS60's.........solid all-season tire with great ratings and Generals are usually very price competitive