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cruiser54

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About cruiser54

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    Obsessive Comanche Disorder

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    Prescott, Az

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  1. cruiser54

    Slow Windshield Wiper Operation.......

    check this out: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 24 COMMENTS EDIT On 87 to 90 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!! What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely. Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit. Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector. Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this. Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first. Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.
  2. cruiser54

    Starting issue

    Even though I've never proclaimed to be a genius, here's something to help keep everyone on the same page. OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 84 COMMENTS EDIT Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.
  3. cruiser54

    Starting issue

    You can disconnect that sync sensor and not notice the difference. It's not a cam sensor anyway on Renix.
  4. Cruiser54, is there a troubleshooting guide for the post-Renix HOs? I was following the Renix guides trying to T/S my son's 91 Comanche, but some of the steps are different enough that I did not want to assume the modifications. For example, I pulled the connector for the TBS, and I could not see any markings. If the pins are A - B - C, then my grounds are on A, not B. Was less than one ohm, so I did not split the wiring loom to re-do the ground connections. I did replace the CPS, even though I wasn't getting any CEL other than 12 & 55. One of the bolts holding the CPS was loose, and the sheath had contact something that melted the sheath, and one of the wires. Even after replacing the CPS, we are still having the miss issue. I watched the engine miss at 2500-3000 rpm range when I had the fuel pressure gauge installed, and the fuel pressure never dropped below 25 psi.

     

    Could the partially grounded CPS (due to the melted wire) have cause an issue with the ECM? I have another ECM coming (that is the right number 56027532 provided by Hornbrod) so I'll get that swapped this weekend. 

     

    Any other ideas?

    1. cruiser54

      cruiser54

      Fuel pressure is too low. 

      Supposed to be 31 with the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator and 39 when disconnected. 

    2. mfendley

      mfendley

      Okay, haven't checked with the vacuum hose disconnected. Since I swapped out the pump and filter, should I get a new pressure regulator?

       

      Appreciate the help.

    3. cruiser54

      cruiser54

      Not necessarily, Test it again. 

  5. cruiser54

    Cherokee vs Comanche Blower Motor

    Here's one reason they melt: On 87 to 90 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!! What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely. Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit. Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector. Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this. Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first. Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.
  6. When it stays at one reading, the O2 sensor is not working. Check for battery voltage at the red wire with it running. Check the ground to the block at the same connector. Black is ground. Have you ever visited my website and completed tips 1 through 5?
  7. cruiser54

    First aid kit recommendations

    Israeli Battle dressing!!!
  8. Your O2 sensor is bad or is not getting heated by the red wire going to it. Or, the O2 sensor ground is no good. I'd like to see what the MAP sensor does when the throttle is opened.
  9. cruiser54

    1987 Turn Signal Indicators

    The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16″ head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, seat belt and key warnings, transmission power/comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not share good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple: Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10″ long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8″ round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. Use a coating of OxGard at all ground contact surfaces when attaching the screw and nut. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12″ long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
  10. cruiser54

    Cooling system failing?

    Yes. And it's possible a simple cap replacement on the pressure bottle could solve your problem. 703-1396 Volvo cap from Napa works well. If you do need a radiator, get NR 2802 from Napa. That way you can go to an open system and still have a bung in the radiator for the fan switch.
  11. cruiser54

    Headliner Group Buy

    Click on his attached page, you bonehead.
  12. cruiser54

    High beams not working.

    Double check the grounds for the relays. Have to be connected to clean and shiny metal.
  13. Some of you guys have seen this numerous times. Some never. You don't need a mechanic to diagnose this. I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons: First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”. Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 1-31-2016
  14. cruiser54

    Bad connection or bad fuel pump?

    Have you ever done the fuel pump ground upgrade? The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.
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