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cruiser54

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About cruiser54

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    Obsessive Comanche Disorder

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    Prescott, Az

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  1. No. I really don't. I hate the Phoenix area and I feel your pain.
  2. They loosened up on both engines. Just more prevalent on the 4 cylinder since there were fewer to loosen before issues began. I have never "torqued" those bolts on any of them. Never had an issue. Just relied on experience. Using an extension screws up/lowers the torque. Can't get a socket on all of them anyway....... The 4.0s at the dealer? 30,000 mile tune up? Part of it was to snug those bolts as they were backing out.
  3. I think the factory torque spec was too low. Another vote for thread locker here..... What is the torque BTW?
  4. Glad you found it. Ever see this? CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS THROTTLE BODY TO MAP SENSOR HOSE FIX JANUARY 23, 2016 CRUISER54 29 COMMENTS The Renix throttle bodies have a strange and failure prone connector on the side where the MAP supply originates and then runs up to the MAP sensor located on the firewall. This hose/pipe assembly is no longer available for purchase. The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause major starting and driveability issues. There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( Napa FPG 60742 ), a vacuum fitting (Napa 05703-B102), two vacuum elbows (Napa2-670), and a length of new plastic piping (Napa 2-672). Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench. Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body where the old fitting was plugged in. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads. Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings. This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning. See Tip 11. Take the vacuum fitting (05703-B102 ) and apply a LITTLE bit of thread sealer on the threads only. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine. . Carefully screw the fitting in until snug. Install one of the vacuum elbows on the MAP sensor so it points toward the throttle body, and the other vacuum elbow on your new throttle body fitting so it points up to the MAP sensor. Cut a length of the new plastic tubing (approximately 13 inches) to fit between the vacuum elbows and install it making sure there is enough slack for some engine movement. Route it according to the photo. We don’t want any rubbing or chafing with engine movement. Not a bad idea to use some contact cement or Gasga-Cinch sparingly on the tubing to elbow connectors. Revised 2-06-2016
  5. WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier. And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
  6. I used a one piece cable, kinda long, from an early Wrangler. 53005084 from Crown maybe?
  7. Most likely the line from the throttle body to MAP sensor on the firewall is messed up. If it leaks, the ECU richens the mixture big time.
  8. And they said it couldn't be done...........LOL Nice write-up!!!
  9. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 13 COMMENTS Over near the transmission dipstick tube are 2 rather large connectors. One is black and goes to the NSS and the gray connector goes to the transmission itself . These 2 connectors carry all the info between TPS, TCU, NSS, speed sensor, and transmission solenoids. Unplug each one, visually inspect for corrosion or bent pins, spray them out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in. Additionally, if your Jeep is an ’87 to ’90 Renix, it’s always a good idea to reach up under the glovebox area and unplug the connector to the TCU and spray it out along with the receptacle of the TCU. While you’re there, find the fuse right in that area for the TCU. Remove it and spray out it’s receptacle and clean any corrosion from the fuse.
  10. Put anti-seize on the front skid plate fasteners because you'll end up removing it to perform repairs.....
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