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cruiser54

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Everything posted by cruiser54

  1. Go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5 first.
  2. Go to www.cruiser54.com. complete Tips 1 through 5. Make sure all your intake manifold bolts are snug.
  3. Could be the hose...... Double check the ohms reading on the ground wire at the fuel pump plug just for fun.
  4. You did fine. You have it pretty well narrowed to the fuel pump.
  5. That was fast!! Have you bypassed the fuel pump ballast resistor or is it still stock?
  6. Check to see how much voltage you have at the pump connector. Orange wire I believe. If you have about 12 volts, likely your fuel pump is bad or the internal rubber hose is messed up.
  7. REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons: First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”. Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.
  8. Make sure intake manifold bolts have not loosened up. Carefully inspect the hose from MAP to throttle body.
  9. Yup. I've used that combo numerous times. ^^
  10. Let us know how simple that is........ Have you visited my website and completed tips 1 through 5 yet? ww.cruiser54.com
  11. https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427811-132mm-High-Headlamp/dp/B001G72VIK/ref=sr_1_41?dchild=1&keywords=autopal+headlights&qid=1631937319&sr=8-41 Get the optional 80/100 bulbs.
  12. This^^. what did you do for a ground improvement?
  13. Greg, nice stuff!! These burned connectors are the poster children for my blower motor ground upgrade. http://cruiser54.com/?p=211
  14. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 19 COMMENTS Over near the transmission dipstick tube are 2 rather large connectors. One is black and goes to the NSS and the gray connector goes to the transmission itself . These 2 connectors carry all the info between TPS, TCU, NSS, speed sensor, and transmission solenoids. Unplug each one, visually inspect for corrosion or bent pins, spray them out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in. Additionally, if your Jeep is an ’87 to ’90 Renix, it’s always a good idea to reach up under the glovebox area and unplug the connector to the TCU and spray it out along with the receptacle of the TCU. While you’re there, find the fuse right in that area for the TCU. Remove it and spray out it’s receptacle and clean any corrosion from the fuse.
  15. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX GROUND REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 64 COMMENTS The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily. All the components listed below ground at the dipstick tube stud: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition Control Module, Fuel Injectors, ECU main ground (which other engine sensors ground through, including the Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. If the whole stud turns, you can use a 7/32″ six point socket or wrench to hold it so the nut can be removed. Worst case, cut the wires and remove the stud and nut. Install new terminal eyelets on the wires when going back together. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Surfaces must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Apply a liberal coating of OxGard, which is available at Lowe’s and other stores. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, apply OxGard, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for its intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. Remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Apply OxGard. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4″ socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely with a liberal coating of OxGard. 2 STRONG suggestions regarding the ground system: I prefer to add a #4 gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18″ long with a 3/8″ lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. NAPA has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10″ long with 3/8″ terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. NAPA part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side tail lamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Add a 10 gauge wire, with an eyelet on each end, from that grounding point to a bolt on the frame. Better yet, on both Cherokees and Comanches, complete Tip 29 for the best fuel pump grounding. Be sure to scrape all mounting points to bare metal and apply OxGard also. If you want to UPGRADE YOUR GROUND AND BATTERY CABLES with custom made parts, contact Paul at www.jeepcables.com
  16. Hey, either they respond or they don't.
  17. Tell us more about your Jeep. engine size etc.
  18. Someone will chime in with a TOMCO number shortly. Have you tried cleaning it?
  19. Never an issue here. I've probably done 6 or more MJ/XJs. I got most of my bulbs from onewaylight.com. They come in a nice kit.
  20. Not to the hoses. The hoses get soft on the inside and stiff on the outside. The worst one is the one in the fuel tank. From the pump up to the mounting flange. It gets all soggy and can collapse and split.
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