cruiser54

yep

Just spray some grease on it with the door open.

Well, the c101 cleaning is very important to do.

EGR can cause an undetectable vacuum leak.

well, have you done it yet? Nothing to fear. I've done dozens of them without an issue.

Have you completed Tips 1 through 5 at www.cruiser54.com yet?

The most important thing to remember about those 2 bolts is loosen/remove them FIRST. BEFORE loosening any other fasteners that hold the trans to the block.

Lube it up!!

good to know. Thanks.

Glad to see it's fixed. I'm suspicious of new parts anymore. I keep a good used spare ICM/coil around. They rarely fail. I have to ask. Did you ever do the contact refreshing on that ICM before replacing it?

don't wait until the metal in the door fatigues and cracks.

Seriously? Tip 2 at www.cruiser54.com!! CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX C101 CONNECTOR REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 39 COMMENTS EDIT The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of more than 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before. Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, ECU, and some to the TCU, travel this path through the C101 connector. That said, the cleaning described below is a real MUST DO right off the bat for any new-to-you Jeep. But, I strongly advocate eliminating the C101 at some point by following the procedure with photos and video in Tip 27. Soldering skills are required and it takes about an hour and a half. The C101 connector is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the ¼” bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar-like substance which has hardened over time. Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth. If you have a small pick or dental tool, tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter before bolting both halves back together. If you wish to eliminate this connector entirely (highly recommended), see Tip #27 – C101 Elimination

It's worth bypassing. But, have you cleaned it?

Whenever the AC clutch is engaged, the fan comes on. If your system is low on freon, it will cycle a lot.

Is the aluminum plate between the bell housing and trans?

Okay.

Which is it? Too much fuel or not enough?

vacuum leak means low vacuum to MAP sensor resulting in too much fuel.

Best to use carb cleaner. The starting fluid evaporates too quickly. I wonder if your EGR might be hanging open.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks between the intake manifold and head?

Someone needs to take a sample of the hose needed to a Napa store and ask to go in the back room and find a comparable one.

You can't hurt the throttle body itself with carb cleaner.

Wanna try something? Is your throttle body clean? Open up the throttle plates a skosh and remember how far you turned the screw. Try 1/4 turn for fun. See what TPS reads and then drive it.

Perhaps your original TPS is bad and the replacements are also? How does it run at 54%?