EdJarHead

Which LED lights did you use for the tail lights? Any modification/adapters required for them? Thanks!

Exhaust work is simple... just not easy, especially when you have 37 years of heat and corrosion. Front pipe came loose from manifold much easier than expected, but those bolts/studs aren't budging yet. Any suggestions? Not easy access for sure. Was hoping to only replace the front pipe as that's what failed inspection (and muffler back was replaced before I got this Comanche). Cat is completely empty, and this vehicle is exempt from emissions inspection in Virginia, but I'd fail state inspection if I delete it. The flange where it connects to the front pipe is badly corroded with several bolt holes nearly gone, so I may be replacing this too. Likewise, the bracket/mount has a couple bolts/studs that have welded themselves in place. Anyone know the part number for this? I'll try grinding and hammering some more tomorrow, but if it's cheap and available I'll replace it before I wear myself out.

Found some inexpensive MJ bucket seats, and want to convert from my current/original bench to buckets, so looking for the brackets to make this change. I know the bench seat only has basically half of what I need for mounting the buckets.

Mostly visual, as the passenger tire sits outside the fender flare while the driver side sits inside. Put a level on it for a rough measurement/confirmation when I was working on suspension bushing renewal.

Makes sense, as the rear seems low as well... especially if I carry anything in the bed, so new springs on both ends should probably be added to "the list"... (which grows faster than I can check things off sometimes).

Photos showing track bar installation. Other than the missing grease fitting, it appears right to my amateur eyes.

Front axle on my 1988 Comanche is pushed slightly to the passenger side (maybe an inch?). Previous owner had installed a new heavy duty fixed track bar, and I assumed it was too long. Bought a closeout from RockAuto, but it appears to be the same length (31-1/4 inches measured straight from center bolt to center bolt). Geometry wasn't my best grade in school, but looking at this, it appears that I need a shorter track bar to pull the axle more toward the driver side. Anyone know of an adjustable option that shortens this? Could it be that the track bar was not installed properly causing this off center situation? I've changed all bushings on the front end and when I drive it feels a bit loose when turning right.

SF, and thanks... glovebox was checked early on (and switch was loose). I'm 15 minutes from Quantico... still go into Q-town for my monthly haircut!

Spent a lot of time last month "fixing" a parasitic drain. Thought I had it fixed, as I saw no (0) amp draw from battery over several weeks (tested several times). Went away for a week and came home to a completely dead battery. Nothing was left on, and nothing else has been messed with since the fix attempt. Have not yet started the fuse pulling sequence again, as I'm waiting on the battery to charge (and hoping it's not dead, as I've replaced the battery 3x this past year already). Anyone see history of ignition switch or something like that causing issues like this? Cab lights and door switches have been replaced and all work properly. Recent "fix" was changing out radio and running a new dedicated 12v constant wire to fuse panel.

Another long process for an easy (simple) fix. When I was fixing my radio power, I had disconnected these "add on" fuses, only to realize today that fuses have a positive side and these were put back in upside down/backwards. (I was thinking I was "cleaning up" the wiring to not look so cobbled together). Now I know which (for certain) is the turn signal fuse, but no idea what the 7.5 fuse in the trans slot is powering (both have 2 black/yellow wires).

Noticed this week my turn signals are no longer working. Fuse panel (photo attached) has been modified by previous owner due to fluid damage, but pretty sure the turn signal fuse is the add on at bottom right in photo. Fuse is good. Hazards work, so I switched the flasher plugs and still nothing (no clicking, no lights). Thinking maybe the switch is bad? Found a post on this, so will try troubleshooting in the next couple days (maybe Monday when it'll be cooler). Anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks for all the help! Radio works with this clean constant 12v connection and more importantly, the parasitic draw on the battery is gone!

Confirmed today that my battery amp draw issue that started this post is on the constant 12v circuit leading to Pin 4_C187 and this is also why the new radio will not power on, as it needs 10amp 12v power from this connection. (appears to be around 6-7amps with similar low voltage when tested) Jensen (Radio) tech support suggests running a new wire to 12v constant, but I'd rather fix and use existing wiring if I can (without having to dismantle the entire dash). Any suggestions where I start? Schematic for radio shows the constant 12v line as Red/Tan and linking to Clock, but when I look at Clock schematic, it shows Red/Tan as Hot "in Run" and Orange/White as the constant 12v line from fuse panel?

Went away for a long weekend, and also returned radio for another as I wasn't sure it was powering on. Tried a quick connect to test new radio today. Red (switched) to red on connector (scosche JE01B) matching up to pin 5 on C187, yellow from radio to yellow on connector matching to pin 4 on C187 and also attached ground wire. No light on radio (key in, switched to ACC and On). Checked with multimeter, and again showing 12v at switched connection (pin 5) but low voltage (varied from 4v to 7v on pin 4) AND the clock dimmed almost completely. Since that wire is just for memory, shouldn't I be able to power up radio? Is this wire the same color all the way to fuze panel (assuming that's where it runs to from radio and clock)?

Thanks... now I feel dumb. I'll have to start over with my connections on Tuesday, though my power connections are matched up correctly.