cruiser54

YAY! Way to stick with it.

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/gm-steering-column-connector.521271/

check that big wide flat connector at the base of the steering column first.

It's supposed to be at least 39. You're on the right track.

What about spraying a high quality contact cleaner in there? Like De-Ox-It.

I wonder what happens to the delay intervals if you add an extra ground from the wiper motor ground wire under the cowl panel. I know it speeds up the wipers.

auto-correct. What a misnomer!!!

Renix. Not remix. The pickings are slim these days. NTK used to be the go to part. Now, who knows? They can be tested at the junkyard with an ohmeter. It's generally the heater circuit that has burned out.

If that. If you can find the OEM number on the unit somehow, we could determine the year. The performance ECU had a P as a prefix FWIW.

Just make sure you use a Renix intake gasket when bolting the intake to the head.

5/16" and 3/8". get the good stuff. I think everyone should have a 3 foot piece of each size on hand. Get the stuff rated for all fuels and fuel injection pressure. Have the correct size hose clamps handy also.

AMEN!!!!!

Aw, geez.

this is interesting manual vs auto trans pedals.

Just do a poor man's stroker and you will smile from ear to ear while you're driving and sitting on a fat wallet. There's plenty of headroom in a Renix system for that.

OK. At the head?

You removed it from the firewall and scraped to bare paint?

big firewall and head also?

Hmmmmmmmmm from Tip 1: The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily. All the components listed below ground at the dipstick tube stud: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition Control Module, Fuel Injectors, ECU main ground (which other engine sensors ground through, including the Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.

Yes, you should. For some reason that particular ground is especially sensitive on the 4 bangers. I'd re-do that and all the connectors and other grounds just so you know it's done. I'd even ADD a ground there in conjunction with the crappy braided one. You've read my Tips 1 through 5 right?

Did you refresh the firewall ground? at the head also?

There's always the person that can bend a digging bar in a sand pile.

Just do it Pete's way and be done with it.

2 screws and lift the unit out for testing. You guys need to add vinegar to the bottle once in a while. Keeps the build-up of scale at a minimum. Also, once you get them working, be sure to activate them as your passenger is entering or exiting the vehicle for testing purposes.

All^^^ good advice. If you replace the valve cover gasket, use a Felpro blue one. I'll bet if you gave it a look, the rear valve cover bolts are loose now.