cruiser54

I have but on a lifted Comanche. I don't think they will work on a stock height vehicle.

Test your CPS. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 132 COMMENTS EDIT Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.

Complete Tips 1 through 5 right off the bat. Make sure the intake manifold bolts aren't loose and the vacuum lines are in good condition also.

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Do my Tip.

same.

^^ All this can be verified first. Test the sensor for continuity and verify power and ground to the sensor.

ever checked the ground and power to the oxygen sensor? Without that it don't work. How about the resistance at the oxygen sensor with it unplugged? Between the red and black wires.

It tells the engine computer what the throttle position is so it can adjust the fuel delivery.

TPS adjustment is a MUST.

Tips 1 through 5 completed? Including c101?

I see you found your way over here!! LOL.

Nice find. You guys are aware of why the "D" crush is in the original pipe, right?

Describe "all good". Did you remove it from the firewall, scrape the paint to bare metal, sand the braided cable where it attaches to the firewall and then tighten it up? We understand it is intermittent. This is how you deal with intermittent problems. do stuff. Have you visited my website and COMPLETED Tips 1 through 5 yet?

You can't refresh grounds and tighten loose intake fasteners by "looking". You must perform the tasks.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 29 COMMENTS EDIT Over near the transmission dipstick tube are 2 rather large connectors. One is black and goes to the NSS and the gray connector goes to the transmission itself . These 2 connectors carry all the info between TPS, TCU, NSS, speed sensor, and transmission solenoids. Unplug each one, visually inspect for corrosion or bent pins, spray them out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in. Additionally, if your Jeep is an ’87 to ’90 Renix, it’s always a good idea to reach up under the glovebox area and unplug the connector to the TCU and spray it out along with the receptacle of the TCU. While you’re there, find the fuse right in that area for the TCU. Remove it and spray out it’s receptacle and clean any corrosion from the fuse.

That's EGR solenoid stuff in the photo.

Not necessarily to any of that stuff. Your past useage, future useage, and the fact you're in Arizona reduces the need for all this stuff you're dreaming about needing.

I don't think Bruce is gonna do any of that!!

This is getting way too complicated.......and off track. If you need it towed, request a flatbed tow truck. That's about all they use anymore anyway. If you're gonna put a different axle in front, what difference does it make. Are you buying a motorhome? If not, don't worry about flat towing it.

Have you ever refreshed the braided ground wire at the firewall? What is its condition? Intake manifold bolts loosen up. The vacuum lines under the throttle body deteriorate.

I've been 4 wheeling since 1967. We lived with levers that had black knobs on top of them with $#!&ty markings on the knobs. That, along with dash plaques explaining how to pull the levers to get the desired result. Those were hard to read from the driver's seat. Now, in 1984 Jeep comes up with a lever, with a lighted bezel, bright markings as indicators, an easy to read and understand tutorial on the sunvisor. So we need some cludgy, prone to failure, half-assed vacuum system to trigger an unreliable light that is redundant?

Replace them then. You're only gonna be running one to the rear rather than the original two lines.

Are your brake lines trashed front and rear?