cruiser54

that's all I've ever had done on my personal stuff.

When you unplug the MAP sensor, the ECU adds fuel. How does the vacuum line look going to the MAP? Are your intake manifold bolts loose causing a vacuum leak?

Perfect. What's even better is having a muffler shop make you a downpipe, with oxygen sensor bung, and without the "crush" in the pipe.

Great job on the EGR. No downside to that. Where are you gonna mount your oxygen sensor? If you opt to mount it in the headpipe like on the HO models, the harness is plenty long to do that.

You do know there will be no provision for oxygen sensor and EGR tube, right? There are work arounds.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS ADDING THE SENTINEL HEADLAMP FEATURE JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 23 COMMENTS EDIT I love the Sentinel Headlamp feature. It allows my Jeep to provide me with safe lighting after exiting it at night. We live in a rural area with no street lights. Here how it works. I researched an old wiring diagram and found that all that was needed to have this feature was plugging in a relay!! And, the plug is already in our Jeeps. The relay is part number 56000636 or 56009324 and sells for about $50. Since I part out XJs and MJs, I went through my stash and found I had saved a few without knowing what they were. Think “junkyard” here. I simply plugged the relay/timer in and instantly had sentinel Headlamps.

Hey Neal!!!!

Is there a write-up coming with photos, videos and narration?

Have you put a wrench on the flexplate bolts? Did you use LocTite on them when you put the engine in? And, as gogmorgo suggests, make sure all the engine to trans bolts are there and tight. What oil and filter are you using? Your oil analysis seems fine, right?

Be absolutely sure the TV cable adjustment is working and holding. Have you ever changed the fluid? Factory recommendation is drain and fill every 30,000 miles with Dex/Merc fluid. NOT the Chrysler stuff!!!!

don't worry about it. Seen lots worse. Enjoy your trip.

I don't remember. We generally upgraded for sure if it was under warranty. eliminating the c101 connector kinda does the same thing. Years ago, I used to bypass the c101 connector by going into the loom and soldering the CPS wires together.

I'd like to see a thin plate to go under the EGR.

TSB 18-51-88 There's a factory bulletin on doing that. CPS Bypass TSB

1987 to 1990 interchange. Just different programming. Most desirable is 89 to 90.

My bad. I had this thread confused with another one.

So, fuel is leaking at the vacuum line and not one of the other fittings on the fuel pressure regulator?

Start saving up for hearing aids now.

Wix fuel filter. You can likely just get by with a seal kit for the fuel pressure regulator . Fuel disconnects Quick disconnect part numbers The Napa part numbers for just o-rings *is: Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual o-rings Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual o-rings *Remember to re-use your old spacer between the 2 new o-rings!! Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16 Dorman 800-750 trans line repair kit 3/8 Mopar repair kits: 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8

Hence this: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HEADLIGHT HARNESS UPGRADE NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 65 COMMENTS EDIT It’s easy to install a supplemental headlight harness. From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, through connectors, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire and more connectors. It’s not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps. The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 35% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don’t melt and burn out. Ebay has the harnesses. 2 headlamp H4 with ceramic connectors is what you want. You’ll likely be warned that the harness won’t fit your Jeep. It will. Absolutely plug and play: Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness’s ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.

I'm just saying to have on hand a foot of BOTH 5/16 and 3/8 fuel fuel injection rated line on hand. One trip to the parts store and you have what you need.

It's in the development stage. It's actually written by a friend of mine.