cruiser54

Another thing I've seen is a clogged vacuum fitting in the intake manifold.

The issue with keeping the distro valve is that the front fluid passages in it are HALF the size of the brake tubing and those passages in an XJ proportioning valve. That is exactly why I recommend eliminating the distro valve and replumbing the rear brakes using an adjustable prop valve.

Heck, even XJ bars. Bring along some open end wrenches to measure them easily if you don't have calipers. Some XJs had as large as 28mm front bars.

Have you changed the rear grommet with the plastic tube yet? Dorman 46005. https://cruiser54.com/?p=121

Grab an HEI distributor from a 250 ci Chevy six cylinder. Remove the drive gear and install one from an AMC V8. Done.

When I said Hillbilly, I was referring to just sliding it over and forgetting about it. I'm with you. Who needs complications?

The Hillbilly method works just fine.

No lift, right?

Red. Is that an aftermarket swaybar?

Is your front axle off-center by chance?

Make sure the big @$$ bolts that go up into the aluminum adapter between the trans and transfer case haven't loosened up or fallen out.

I'd go snag a non leaking used ZJ box at the junkyard.

Does he offer that? If so, yes.

You may be able to use a "governor" from a ZJ.

Thanks Nick!!!

and a part number can change simply because they changed the plug design/configuration.

6K is fine. Have a snatch block. Or 2. I owned a towing business for 13 years. My off-road recovery vehicle was a Toyota Landcruiser with a warn 8000 lb winch. Always worked fine. What really helped was the pair of Group 31 batteries mounted on the floor right behind the passenger seats.

My experience exactly.

I use ONLY Mopar thermostats. a little pricey but they warm the engine very quickly and the temp is stable at running temp. I live in the mountains of Arizona where temps can vary from 0* to 100* F.

It's not the stalk. It's the turn signal switch inside the column. It could be as simple as a broken spring that is available separately and much easier to replace. .

Point is this. Eliminate the CAD and then you CAN rely on the lever.

What Pete and gogmorgo said^^. I'm all in favor of the big lever indicator. Ditch all that vacuum crap.

I found a guy here in Arizona that rebuilds Ford sending units and thinks he may be able to help. I met him about 6 months ago when he came by and purchased an old distributor machine from me which I had advertised on Craigslist. If someone can provide me a photo of the sender and the ohms values I will forward the info to him.

I've driven mine with the needle pointing straight down, so yo have an issue. You can check for exhaust restriction with a vacuum gauge: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the gauge up to a vacuum source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.

that is very interesting....