Wild Comanche

Thanks for the latest input. Those front fluid passages in the distribution valve on an MJ are visually noticeably smaller than the XJ. Maybe the engineers at the factory over thought the problems pickups have with no or light loads in the beds on less than perfect road conditions when braking. And were TOO cautious. Or it was designed in a hurry on a Friday. No body prefers inferior braking when they can have better braking performance. Me included. My MJ is for mountain driving on sometimes snow and ice conditions. I will need to test braking in 4x4 driving on steep downhill grades in the snow before eliminating the distribution valve and re plumbing the rear brakes with an adjustable prop valve. But I can see your point, "cruiser54". Everything in the rear brakes are clean and the shoes are pretty close to being adjusted as close as possible to contact with the drums. This 1989 MJ is still a work in progress....... Thanks for all the input........

Ended up keeping the distribution valve factory system and pressure bled the brakes. Seems to work OK. Though the brakes are not as good as the best power brake vehicles I have owned, but still good enough. Better than before the brake work. Thanks for all the input. And I still have the factory brake failure warning light in service.

Very interesting. I disconnected the plastic retainer at the ball on the differential and moved the swing arm up and reconnected the plastic retainer. Now the swing arm is in about a 2:45 o'clock position. I wonder how much this affected the rear braking bias being in that previous position? And how long it has been in that position? This is a head scratcher....Thanks for that info Eagle_SX4.

Thanks for the input. The swing arm is at roughly a 7:00 o'clock position. The connecting rod from the swing arm to the axle is almost parallel to the ground. After disconnecting the connecting rod, the swing arm moves freely. It might be in working order. This vehicle has little rust under the bed. But the distribution block has not been cleaned and could be crudded up inside. And having a LSPV get destroyed in a panic stop is not good. After reading everything I could find on Comanche Club concerning the LSPV and the distribution block (mounted just below the master cylinder) I am leaning in the direction of eliminating the LSPV and the distribution block and going with an adjustable proportioning valve. And mounting it under the hood where it can be adjusted when necessary. From what I read it would eliminate the brake warning light. I can live with that. Cruiser54's link to the Wilwood #260-8419 260-12627 APV looks good. It has a 5 year warranty for what that is worth. And is only $36.00 on Amazon. If I could still buy a new LSPV and new distribution block, I would probably go that route. But that seems a dead end. Thanks for that link, "cruiser54". I will leave a post as to how the brakes work after installing the APV.

I have a 1989 Jeep Comanche 4x4 Pioneer model. Just had a complete brake job performed. New pads, new rotors, rebuilt calipers, 3 new rubber brake hoses, new master cylinder, new brake booster, new shoes, turned drums, new wheel cylinders, new hardware in rear wheels and new self adjusters. Reason is I discovered the brake fluid was black as night. No exaggeration. The brake pedal has about 2 1/2 to 3" of travel before a complete stop. Vehicle doesn't have ABS. It barely locks up the wheels under hard braking on a gravel road. The brakes act like it is not truly power brakes. Something between power brakes and manual brakes. It just is not right. Brakes were much better in years past. Everything has been replaced except the LSPV and the steel brake lines. The brakes were bled using the system explained on Comanche Club. Twice. Fluid is clear coming out of the bleeder ports. And no air. Vehicle has 30" tires. If the LSVP is working properly, should I expect better brake performance with the 30" tires? Thinking of removing the LSPV all together. Seems no one sells a new LSPV. Read that the LSPV could be stuck and is not moving. Maybe I need to remove the LSPV. What steps need to be taken to eliminate the LSPV. Any help will be appreciated...Thanks

Thanks for all the info.

Thanks for the input. That is a nice looking Comanche, "PC06". My 235/85r16 tires are Yokohama Super Digger V's. It was discontinued quite a while ago. A really great snow and off road tire. Had them on my 1976 CJ-5. I might be o.k. with a 215/85r16 tire as it is about 30.4 inches tall, w/o any lifting of the body. Anyone tried a Kumho AT 51 tire? Thanks.......................

Thanks for the info. I wonder if the fender clearance on 2wd and 4wd Comanche's were the same, with the same size tires installed?

I have a 1989 Comanche 4x4 with factory springs. With no lift kits,etc. installed. Wondered if anyone has tried to fit 16" wheels on their Comanche? I was thinking of using a 16x7 inch wheel. And using 235/85r16 tires, since I already have a good set. I was told that the factory 15" wheels have a +32mm offset. The offset might be the problem child. I believe the 235/85r16 tires will clear under the fenders. I have 235/75r15 tires on it now and have about 3" of tire clearance from tires to fenders. The 235/85r16 tires will give me about 1.5" increase in ground clearance. Any help in this matter will be appreciated. Thanks...............

Thanks for the comeback................

I have a 1989 Comanche 4x4 Pioneer. Its about time to get a set of 4 mudflaps for this rig. Any suggestions on a set of black rubber durable flaps that will fit good? OEM are probably not available anymore, so whatever aftermarket ones are out there for sale........Thanks.......

Thanks for all the info........................

Thanks for that information. Maybe with only one side hooked up with the new fixture and the other side with the oem fixture, there was a direct short from positive to ground. Don't know. Any way thanks for the heads up.

The Euramtec A-7180 is what I was looking for. I can live with the no off position. Much thanks................