cruiser54

THIS^^^^

Thanks for the update.

Of all the stuff you shared, you left out make, model and year.

Bruce, PM me if you want their contact info.

If second gear shifts are all that's an issue, there might be work arounds versus changing transmissions. any swap done by a shop is gonna be lots of money. Since you're in Goodyear, contact Christian at Arizona Freedom 4X4 in Wickenburg to do the work and estimate it? He knows his stuff and generally has a good stash of parts.

Is it fixed now?

No. Perhaps someone else does.

Those hoses are super prone to leaking!!! Replace them.

I would send the "kit" back and do Pete's 15 minute fix.

I can't see a CPS causing stalling on deceleration but the Jeep starts well. My website outlines the procedure for increasing the CPS output and advancing it should you decide to do that at some point. Have you ever cleaned your throttle body and IAC? That IAC is gonna likely be moving in a different range than it used to when the EGR was letting gobs of air into the system. It's a maintenance thing anyway. I'd try that first. Also, make sure your intake manifold bolts haven't loosened up. common issue.

I need to ask. Why not do this?

Look up by the pivot point of the pedal and see if the weld has partially failed.

I'd pick up a new MAP sensor. Make sure there is vacuum at the fitting you're plugging the MAP's hose source on the manifold.

cleaned the c101 yet? Refreshed the firewall ground?

Your intake manifold bolts aren't loose?

That isn't what I was referring to. I was referring to the 258 used in the eagle with a carburetor.

Now put a harness in. https://cruiser54.com/?p=115

Heat works well. Heat it up and let it cool. Then, put a wrench on it. flare wrench.

Why are the guys from Arizona giving advice on dealing with rust?

Use Freeze-Off as a penetrant and the line wrenches mentioned above.

I don't know off the top of my head as I don't use the prop valves. I've been doing rear disc brake conversions on numerous models of cars for decades and just use the adjustable prop valves. Only on an 88 XJ with a rear disc conversion did I use the factory prop valve. I ran it in stock configuration with rear discs and then swapped the ZJ guts in to see if it was better. It was.

good plan. If you end up replacing the hose, make sure you get the stuff that can be submerged in ethanol fuels

They're the correct threads, but you better be sure each line goes into the correct place. those valves are different MJ to XJ. You can always NOT use the factory prop valve and still use your early booster/master.