Norton

So… checked voltage all the way to the starter. 12v all the way thru. Bench tested the starter I took out and it worked well so I reinstalled it as the newer one I had just installed looked sketchy anyways. New mounting bolts, good clean on solenoid connectors and terminals/grounds ( + everything else electrical) and she starts. Thanks everybody. In other news, does anyone know where to get their hands on a new distributor cap/rotor for a 2.5? Can only find them for 4.0’s online.

Found the relay and corresponding grounds and gave em a clean. Nothing new still. Tomorrow is my day off and I will making as many trips to the parts place as it takes. Thanks for all the input and will keep everyone updated

The starter relay is the white thing with the brass bracket along the steering column correct?

Yeah I’m inclined to think that the starter is spinning but just not cranking hard enough too. I never saw or replaced any shims. Not sure if it made that sound with the old starter, couldn’t hear much over the engine turning over. Replaced the starter like 6 months ago after it went out the first time and it worked right away. Thought it was the same issue this time around but just replaced the starter again and nothing. Any thoughts on starter relay? If it had gone bad the starter wouldn’t whirr at all correct?

Gentlemen. I have a manual 89 2.5 TBI MJ w/ an AX4 Out of nowhere the jeep suddenly won’t crank at all. I have power to all accessories and it even randomly started once out of 50 tries when my girlfriend turned the key of course but otherwise the only sound is one click and a whirring/humming noise. So far I’ve replaced my starter and checked/cleaned most electrical connections I could find, including the CPS. It bump starts fine too. What else should I be considering? Any help is appreciated

Still getting a faint indication on the dash but my turn signals gradually gave out the other day. Hazards work fine, so I know the flasher relay is good Brake and headlights work fine Swapped the big circular silver fuse to no avail. Getting a voltometer today to check battery/alternator although voltage seems fine throughout the system. Wondering if anyone has any other ideas? I remember reading something about messing with the connector at the base of the steerng column but can’t seem to find it.

Is anyone 2.5-omnicient enough to know the size of the bolt that threads into the IAC? (Not the mounting bolts but the one that touches the throttle arm) Thanks

This hose has also been broken since purchase but hasn’t been an issue. Looks like it runs from the valve cover to the intake but I’m having trouble finding the name so that I can replace it.

Right yeah meant ISA. I have it set up such that it gently makes contact with the throttle arm. For a few months it worked fine this way. Can you point me in the right direction for setting it up properly?

My jeep is an 89 2.5 TBI. It wants to stall real bad on start up and the problem has gotten worse to the point where it’s undriveable. So far, as per forum suggestion I have: Cleaned throttle body Replaced and adjusted IAC Fixed every vacuum leak I could find Tightened intake manifold bolts past factory torque spec Replaced O2 sensor I have a new TPS in the mail, will be putting it in tomorrow. I’m thinking about the distributor/new plugs (although the plugs look fine) but can‘t seem to find a distributor for my year and engine. Will a distributor for a 91 cherokee work? Does anyone have part number for an 89 2.5? Thanks in advance.

My starter took a crap the other day. I ordered a new one, swapped it in, and drove the truck around the same day. The new starter worked great and would crank hard. Parked her overnight and now (next day) all of a sudden I’m not getting any crank whatsoever. My electronics are on, I can hear the fuel pump prime, then nothing other than a quiet sort of hum in the “on” position. I’m stumped. I can’t understand how the new starter would work great one day and then suddenly nothing like 12 hours laters. Appreciate any input.

Heard something about disconnecting and touching the battery connectors together for 30 secs to reset the ECU. Anyone ever done this?

Tried this and the bolts were pretty tight. Tightened them some more and the problem is more or less the same. I also snapped this little hose going from the throttle body to the valve cover on accident. Felt like it was sending air to the TB. Weirdly enough it made the idle a little better. Starting to get stumped.

By intake manifold bolts do y’all mean the bolts that hold the manifold to the block? Are there any bolts on the manifold itself I should check?

I don’t have a tach, just dummy lights so it’s hard to tell. By ear it sounds like it barely loping along at like 300-500 when cold before stalling. Once it to starts idling normally it feels like about 1500. Do you mean physically backing out the screw with a wrench? Or is there another adjustment?