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JefCooks

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About JefCooks

  • Rank
    Can Spell Comanche

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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Interests
    Gardening, camping, cycling, canoeing, tinkering

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  1. Just to close up the thread, I figured out the problem and repaired it. The next time it wouldn’t crank, I checked the battery o nextions and fuse, all good. Then I got under the truck and tried to jump the starter solenoid. It sparked, but didn’t spin. Bingo! While under there I found the heater core valve had a very slow drip right onto the solenoid. So, got a new starter & solenoid and am going to replace heater hose with the 97+ direct run hoses. I was baffled that it was the starter given that it was intermittent, but I guess the coolant would cause a temporary short??
  2. The cables all look good from what I can see, no corrosion and solid attachments. My plan was to check the voltage as previously suggested and jump it to see if that’s it.
  3. Ok, I’ll try and get it to happen later today and keep you posted. Thanks.
  4. Hey everybody I have a 92 4x4 4.0 AW4. Sometimes (randomly) my truck won’t start, it won’t even attempt to crank. It’s been happening for several months at this point, but I don’t drive the truck much so it feels quite frequent. It’ll start fine at home but if I go somewhere and the engine warms up, it won’t turn back on after shut down. 2 months ago I cleaned the NSS and it hadn’t happened since then but then happened yesterday. The headlights don’t dim when I’m trying to start it so it’s not a bad starter. The lights and fuel pump kick in when the key is turned so I don’t think it’s th
  5. Do you have a closeup if the Hood? What did you do about the center channel? OP, I’ve been thinking about these but would really like something with a drip rail. http://rodlouvers.com/Jeep-XJ-Louvered-Aluminum-Hood-Bolt-On-cooling-panels-Cherokee-Comanche-louvers-P4921315.aspx
  6. Thanks for sharing! OM617 is happening when my engine fails. Hopefully not too soon.
  7. Hey everyone. Wanted to give an update to close out the thread and let future people know what worked for me. Pete was 100% right. I had the original 6 blade fan and it worked, but I never heard it kick on and off, nor could I hear it when the engine was running like on other vehicles I have. So I decided to swap it out with a newer style 10 broad blade style I got for cheap on eBay. It worked! I can sit in traffic with A/C on and it stays around 210 in 90+ degree heat. I can even park it with ac on and have a quick bite to eat without it getting anyw
  8. Thanks! I’ll check it out when I get back for vacation. Happy 4th everyone!
  9. I had the condenser out 2 weeks ago when converting R12 to R134. Its clean and can see through easily. No excess dust, grass or mud.
  10. Just installed a new ZJ fan clutch a few days ago, definitely not that. Anyone know a way to test the water pump flow? The water pump will be a ways down the list of things to try due to cost. That being said, do they make a high flow pump? I’d prefer to keep it on the belt and not switch to electric.
  11. Go for it, more information isn’t going to hurt anybody.
  12. Approx. 150K miles. Engine is clean aside from some oil in driver wheel well due to PS hose that was leaking. Where did you find an 18psi cap? Most of what I’m seeing is 13psi, with the occasional 16psi. I have a 9x11 transmission cooler that I’m gonna hook up later this week. We will see if that helps. The efan is pretty much on all the time because of the AC. Yes, PO replaced rad. and water pump. I’m assuming he delt with the same stuff I am because he claims it never over heated on him. I kinda believe him because i installed the xj gauges, he only had dummy lights.
  13. The rad cap looks to have been replaced when the PO replaced the radiator. I don’t know the “pop-off” pressure of the cap (to use a carb term). When I got home today, the truck was registering 195-210. I parked it and let it idle to see how hot it would get with no ac and a pretty cool day (for TX). It got up to the third tic-mark again after several minutes so I opened the hood, wondering if it would help to get the hot air out of the compartment. It did not. Later tonight I’ll put it on an incline and try top burp the system without getting into the t-stay again.
  14. It’s not a Mopar, but I did replace it with a brand new Mr Gasket 195* t-stat last week when I did the flush. I’m hearing some bubbles when I turn it off so I think I will try to burp the system and see if that does anything. Thanks for all the input so far.
  15. Do you think that is enough of an upgrade? This doesn’t happen sometimes, it happens every time I drive it. Once it gets up to operating temp, even just stopping at a red light it will climb 10-15 degrees. Is there a way to check the engine for blockages? Could the PO have installed the water pump wrong?
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