cruiser54

They're strong enough for built Chevy 350s. No worries.

Yep. The transfer case shifting takes place as a result of the lever position. All that other vacuum line bull$#!& is totally unnecessary. Block it off at the source.

And enjoy it!!!

Always look here: CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 42 COMMENTS EDIT I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.

drive it for a while.

Ditch it with the write-up on here. It was a dumbass design and can be bypassed in 20 minutes. No need for a light!! Shifter position tells you all you need to know.

Check with Christian.

AzJeff

Go with it!!

Right behind the power steering pump with the knock and O2 harness.

On the driver side you have CTS, knock sensor and O2 sensor. Looks like CTS isn't plugged in.

Here's the issue with that system. The caps don't seal well and the bottle distorts/cracks/ blows up. If you're anywhere needing a radiator, switch to an open cooling system. Easy as pie.

None of them can hurt....

Is the cooling system in your vehicle a Renix type for sure?

Common as belly buttons. You can find them used on Cherokees.

You better do that or you'll be in serious trouble.

Wow. My experience has been: Three 4.0s in the family. I put a brand new Stant SuperStat 195* in each one. All of them exhibited the same symptoms. took a while to warm up. Ran a little cool and got rather hot before opening up and cooling down. Warranteed all 3 and replaced with new SuperStats. Same symptoms. I bought a new 8983501426XX stat from the dealer and put it in one of the 4.0s. Warmed up quickly. Temp stayed rock solid with no swing at the top end. So, I replaced the other 2 SuperStats with factory Mopar. Same results. You think you don't like replacing stats? That was 9 times!!!!

That is correct. BUT, the aftermarket Motorad thermostats don't hold a candle to the ones they make for Mopar.

That could be your problem right there.

This also^^

MOPAR 195* stat?

Gotta have power and ground to the sensor. Gotta test the sensor unplugged A to B terminals. 5 to 7 ohms as mentioned above. without verifying these 2 things you are peeing into the wind.

You got my text?

Likely every replacement part is chinesium.