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About BizarroStormy

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    Can Spell Comanche

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  • Location
    Central Florida

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  1. I just used these parts (well quite similar, used 100lb struts and 90 degree ball studs) turned out really well and holds my hood higher than the stick. Got pretty close to my washer fluid reservoir could have put it a little farther out.
  2. I have actually had the cover off recently because I have an aftermarket aluminum cover and the spring retainers used to hit it until I ground some clearance into the side of it. I checked the rockers by hand and they felt secure. But I'm not opposed to pulling the cover again to see if I need to grind more. I will run my torque wrench over the bolts to ensure they are secure.
  3. My valves used to clatter all the time when I first got the truck. I add Sea Foam to the oil before I do an oil change to help clean out old sludge and now it only clatters when very hot.
  4. So my jeep is currently running royal purple 10W30 and it runs great until it has fully heated up after an hour of street driving. At that point the valves start to clatter and my oil pressure drops to about 20psi idle, 38ish when flooring it. The engine has 223k miles on it so I was thinking of putting in an oil with a higher hot viscosity and the highest I could find on amazon with a 10 base weight was Liqui Moly 10W60. I figure it should still work fine because it starts at a 10 weight which my truck likes and should stay closer to its original viscosity when it gets hot due to the high tem
  5. Mossmj13 just sold me some, so I should be good now. Thanks everyone
  6. That goes to your MAP sensor, very important for your computer to control your engine. Look at Cruiser's tip #31 to replace this weak connection with an improved one. http://cruiser54.com/?p=280
  7. Do you think the passenger side rail is the same as the drivers side? I only have the passenger side but it looks pretty similar on each side.
  8. I would prefer black but can always paint the chrome.
  9. So I have still been dealing with this issue semi randomly and I have finally found the true cause. I replaced the throttle position sensor with a cheap one off Amazon a while ago trying to fix my issue. I noticed a few days ago when trying to diagnose the idle issue that the sensor was stuck. Turns out I had it too tight and it melted a little. So when the throttle body would heat up it would expand and make contact with the bolt on the sensors arm and bind it up. I pulled the arm back into the closed position and my idle immediately dropped to normal. I have since replaced it with a standard
  10. I am looking for drip rail covers, just need the drivers side as mine is broken. But will buy both if they are in good shape or if you would prefer to sell as a set.
  11. I'm relatively sure it is the transmission, it was about 3 quarts low when I noticed it starting to shift poorly. After adding more fluid it leaked a lot more.
  12. So it looks like the seal between the back of my transmission and my transfer case is leaking pretty badly. Usually leaves a dinner plate sized pool of ATF on the floor over night. How hard is it to replace that seal? Will I have to drop the transmission? If I have to drop the transmission should I have it rebuilt (223k miles), seems to shift fine when it has the proper amount of ATF.
  13. Epic foreshadowing! Figured I would follow up on this thread because the previous fix didn't completely resolve the issue and I wanted to document the final fix. The issue came back up after the engine got up to temp and I drove it a bit, the bolts kept getting loose. So I pulled off the manifolds, cleaned the intake and painted the exhaust, new gasket and bolts. But the idle issue manifested again this time after the engine would get up to temp then on second startup after it was warm would ramp up to 3k rpm. Ruled out a manifold leak by blocking off my throttle body, then
  14. Well I feel silly now. Woke up with fresh eyes and realized that I bumped this connector off this resistor. Runs just fine now!
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