Jump to content

BizarroStormy

Members
  • Posts

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central Florida

Recent Profile Visitors

540 profile views

BizarroStormy's Achievements

Comanche Fan

Comanche Fan (3/10)

  1. I had that issue with the wipers just being on-off with no return to home. For me it was the fingers in the gearbox (attached to the cover), make sure they make contact with the electrical contact points on the big gear and put a little silicone grease there to keep them clean.
  2. You might have moved the little fingers in the gear box that tell the delay module that it completed a cycle. Did you pull rotor out of the motor and clean and grease those bushings?
  3. I had a similar problem, open it up, pull it completely apart, clean everything and put a lot of grease in all bushings and gears, it is the only way. Jhook arms help a bit too, it will never be as fast as a modern wiper system but you can make it functional. This was on a "remanufactured" motor too, they just spray paint them and call it done.
  4. Surprising results for the compression tests, 120 - 135 on all cylinders cold. Don't have the tools for a leak down test so I guess I will never know. Maybe tolerances loosen up when it gets hot? Found some serious white buildup on my #1 spark plug, and light buildup on the rest. Only thing I could think that caused that was my throttle position sensor was broken/stuck for the better part of a year (minimal driving) which caused the computer to try and run the engine WOT when the throttle was closed. So looks like new wires and plugs for the new engine. Rotor cap and coil are already newish (2 years old). Good call on the CPS mine is a bit crusty from close encounters with the exhaust manifold.
  5. I know it is bad rings/cylinders the crank case is highly pressurized it even blows oil out the dipstick at times, this thing has 225k miles and was absolutely abused by previous owners. The amount of sludge and garbage I found in the oil pan and pickup was absurd. The engine feels anemic even after I re-geared to 4.56. I will check compression numbers for everyone's curiosity when I get home, but I have already ordered a new engine from JEGS.
  6. Just replaced my rear main seal and it never drips a drop on my driveway. Blue smoke has started to come out the back on hard acceleration. I have ridiculous amounts of blow-by and my air filter is soaked.
  7. I finally decided to bite the bullet and replace my engine due to it suddenly consuming a lot of oil (3 quarts every month of daily driving). I am planning on painting the engine bay, replacing the water pump, and replacing the outer seals on my transmission. I was wondering if there was anything else I should replace or do while the engine is out?
  8. So I'm thinking about getting a junkyard AW4 and rebuilding it so I can still use my truck while taking my time on the rebuild. Will a later model AW4 work on my 88 without issue? Will a tranny from a 4x2 Cherokee bolt up fine to my transfer case? Any suggestions for sourcing a rebuild kit? Thanks
  9. So I broke the little nipple/connector off the back of one of my nozzles. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?
  10. I just used these parts (well quite similar, used 100lb struts and 90 degree ball studs) turned out really well and holds my hood higher than the stick. Got pretty close to my washer fluid reservoir could have put it a little farther out.
  11. I have actually had the cover off recently because I have an aftermarket aluminum cover and the spring retainers used to hit it until I ground some clearance into the side of it. I checked the rockers by hand and they felt secure. But I'm not opposed to pulling the cover again to see if I need to grind more. I will run my torque wrench over the bolts to ensure they are secure.
  12. My valves used to clatter all the time when I first got the truck. I add Sea Foam to the oil before I do an oil change to help clean out old sludge and now it only clatters when very hot.
  13. So my jeep is currently running royal purple 10W30 and it runs great until it has fully heated up after an hour of street driving. At that point the valves start to clatter and my oil pressure drops to about 20psi idle, 38ish when flooring it. The engine has 223k miles on it so I was thinking of putting in an oil with a higher hot viscosity and the highest I could find on amazon with a 10 base weight was Liqui Moly 10W60. I figure it should still work fine because it starts at a 10 weight which my truck likes and should stay closer to its original viscosity when it gets hot due to the high temperature modifiers. It looks like it is mostly used in motorcycles and high mileage BMWs. So what do you guys think? Would this cause engine damage or would this solve all my problems?
  14. Mossmj13 just sold me some, so I should be good now. Thanks everyone
  15. That goes to your MAP sensor, very important for your computer to control your engine. Look at Cruiser's tip #31 to replace this weak connection with an improved one. http://cruiser54.com/?p=280
×
×
  • Create New...