BizarroStormy

Make sure your throttle position sensor is not binding, that will cause your computer to open your idle air control valve all the way up.

That kit worked great, don't have the impossible to find hose anymore. The new dryer kind of points the line that goes to the condenser towards the battery tray. So there was a minor interference there but I was able to massage it into place.

That hard line did not work out, had to use part of the brass valve for it to fit at all and it didn't really want to go in. Don't think it is actually a No 6 fitting just very close. Getting the bend right was also basically impossible. I think I found a solution though https://jeepair.com/products/1987-1990-cherokee-4-0l-quick-disconnect-eliminator-kit?variant=41425272602821 is a kit specifically designed to replace this weird line. I should be getting it in the mail this weekend.

Think this would work? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-12524-vcl

Anyone have a part number or link to the replacement double no 6 hose that can replace the brass valve on the dryer?

So I mangled my liquid line (between dryer and expansion valve) when I replaced my engine a couple years ago and it won't hold pressure anymore. I am looking for a replacement but I am coming up empty. Jeep air has been out of stock every time I check. https://jeepair.com/collections/liquid-lines/products/cherokee-liquid-line-drier-to-evaporator I think the part number is 56002731, anyone know where I can get one?

He was helping people to his very last day, what a legend! I know my truck would not be running now without his help. We have lost someone very special.

He was helping people to his very last day, what a legend! I know my truck would not be running now without his help. We have lost someone very special.

I did try to clean them up with sand paper and contact cleaner. The potting was cracking on the bottom, so I think the original just went bad.

Got a Duralas one, I don't know how good it really is but my truck runs now. Looked identical to the original other than the potting material was translucent on the bottom.

So I finally fixed my issue after my truck sat for about 9 months. In the end it was the ignition control module. I figured that out after replacing the flex plate, crank position sensor, doing the cruiser crank position sensor mod to increase voltage, and the coil. Jeeps are fun.

Wish I could go get some parts but my truck is in pieces lol. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/inventory/gainesville-1224/1988-jeep-comanche/

Haven't checked spark, but I shouldn't be getting any if the CPS is not reading. I have been checking the voltage directly from the CPS unplugged so wiring is not the cause of the low voltage, I have replaced the wiring harness plug with a new one though. Have a NTK sensor coming in today, if that doesn't work I will try the boring out trick that I missed on Cruiser's site. Fuel is fine, 35lbs.

Second replacement CPS, this one reads .33v which is lower than what is should be. Still no start. Is there any way to adjust these so they are closer to the flex plate? Are all aftermarket CPS's garbage?

Replaced my CPS, still no start. New one is worse than the one it replaced, only reads .25v while cranking. Think I got a dud or could my flex plate be defective? I had the trans off the engine last year and the plate looked fine other than some slightly damaged teeth. New pressure regulator seems to have helped, reading 35psi now.