schardein

Here's how mine looks. Second pic shows the clip on the metal bracket (on the back cab wall) that EagleScout mentioned. 3rd pic I "borrowed" off here, I think. I listed it as an 86, which has an extra part for lowering the spare tire. Jack instruction sticker. Jack parts from the parts manual. Close up of the clip.

1. Seized parking brake cable, as others mentioned. Your description is classic example for it. 2. Oil or greased soaked brake linings (obvious, you would have seen it) If you are new to drum brake work... 3. Are you familiar with the Primary and Secondary shoes? There are two different brake shoes per side, a primary and secondary. The primary shoe has a shorter brake lining, the secondary a longer brake lining. The secondary shoe goes on the rear (it faces the rear of the truck). I've seen mistakes were the secondary shoes were on the front, and where both secondary shoes were on one side, and both primary shoes on the other. 4. Just a thought, check the tires pressures to make sure they are even on each side.

1JTMG66P4HT143465 At Danny's U-Pull, Tulsa OK Think I got the VIN right. Here is a pic. I did a search to see if this was previously entered, but haven't had great luck with the search being accurate.

1J7FT66L2LL109789 At Midwest Pull N Save, Tulsa OK. I'm pretty sure that VIN is correct. I'm attaching the pic I have of it.

Interesting to see the cost for mounting and balancing. I live in a rural area and do some business at a local place that is sort of a hardware store/feed store/State safety inspection/tires/oil change/minor repairs type place. I just had two sets of tires mounted and balanced, at $12 per tire. One set, I brought the bare wheels and new tires to them. The other set, I drove the truck in with the new tires in the bed. They don't care that I didn't buy the tires there. No difference in cost if I drove the truck in, or just brought in the wheels and tires. Got the tires at a discount through some volunteer work that I do.

Sorry, but I must cancel my order. Sold both sets of Turbines.

Good luck with your search. As an alternative, you could repaint different color pieces with SEM color coat. It's very high quality paint intended for plastics. I've had outstanding results using it on interior parts.

This is the speed sensor and extension cable for an 85, different connection at the cluster.

If you have a cable intended for cruise, you may be able to find the speed sensor and short extension cable to make it work in your application, even though you don't have cruise. This is from a 1990, should be the same 87-90.

Was this directed at me? I have a bunch of the screws. If you need 6, pay shipping plus $1?

The screws in that ad don't look like the originals. The threads look right, but the washer head is wrong. I'm not sure those would fit properly in the recessed holes in the grill. I have some original screws, also some original screws that are stainless steel, and the plastic inserts they screw into, if you are interested.

Yes, replacing the OFA O-rings is one of those things that needs to be done occasionally on the legendary Jeep 4.0. Thankfully it's a relatively easy and inexpensive job. I ran into an issue where it seemed like the OFA I was using required a different sized o-ring than came in the kits. I was swapping to a different adapter, and it came from a core engine on a pallet, so no idea what year it was. It's been so long ago, that I don't remember the details, and I didn't keep notes at the time.

The factory parts manual calls them an "insulator". Factory part number 52002585, Rockauto calls it a radiator mount bushing. Rockauto shows out of stock.

The seatbelt warning buzzer "times out" and shuts off the buzzer and warning light after a set amount of time. Doesn't matter if you have fastened your seatbelt or not, it times out and shuts off. If you do fasten your seatbelt before the buzzer times out, it will shut off the buzzer when you fasten the belt, although the light stays lit until it times out. It's not like some modern cars that give you a reminder every so often if you don't fasten the belt. It won't hurt anything if you choose to delete it.

If you haven't already sent the order, you can put me in for 12.

I'm not sure why, but this made me laugh out loud when I saw it. Ironic I guess that a truck with "bUd LiGhT" on the rear diff looked like it T-boned a power pole.

It's been several years, but when I repaired the AC on my 91, there was a hose that wasn't available. I ended up sourcing a used one from a junkyard XJ. I think it was the small one on the dryer.

In my experience, up to 86 uses a metal end on the speedo cable, with a metal clip on the cluster that must be depressed to release it. 87-90 uses a speedo cable with a plastic clip on the cable itself that is depressed to release it. I don't know if the clusters are completely interchangeable during those years, but the speedometer cable could be swapped so at least the speedometer is working. This is especially easy if the rig is equipped with cruise, since you can swap just the short section after the speed sensor.

Haha, nice. I've got a bunch of these. Here is an interesting one from Syracuse, NY. There were THREE of them! Told the owner about it when checking out, he just laughed and said there was a swamp behind the yard. Not uncommon to put a car on the lift and have a few fall out!

There are two common sizes of a bullet connectors, .180” and a smaller .15something”. I think SAE connectors are .180, and that’s probably what the MJ connectors are, but you would want to confirm that.

Rather than two separate bullet connectors, perhaps use an SAE two wire connector. Still serves the same purpose, but can't be "plugged into itself". A mating end with the wires cut off could be a plug to protect it from the elements if not used.

I'm in for 4, possibly 8. EDIT: I posted below, but also updating this post to show I would like 12.

For what it's worth, there are at least three sizes of sway bars.

I believe 1993/1994 was the change over year. 1993 and back, the bolts go in vertically. 1994 and up, the front bolts go in horizontally.

Nice work, glad the parts worked out for you!